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Old 5th August 2013, 01:38 AM   #71
davada is offline davada  Canada
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Has anyone used Context Engineering Electronics enclosure?

Project Gallery - Context Engineering

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Old 8th November 2014, 12:59 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon7000 View Post
It is wonderful when folks without a clue offer advice.

2024T3 is the old aircraft standard for aluminum. Today it is used mostly for keys. It will polish up quite nicely.

3003H14 is crap. It is the cheapest sheet aluminum and is usually sold in rolls. Useful for flashing and decorative uses. The lowest strength on the list.

5052H32 is the standard for sheet metal use. It forms well but does form small cracks on tight bends. it is the material of choice for decent quality sheet metal.

6061T6 is the work horse of aluminum alloys. It welds well is decent at machining, but a bit gummy, so use a lubricant such as Tap-free for aluminum to keep it from sticking to your tool bits and slowing things up.

7075T6 is the stuff they really build airplane parts out of. It is the strongest and most expensive. It with a bit of effort will take a shine and look like chrome.

So use either 5052 or 6061.

ES
How about 2017A?? It's the most common alu I can find here in France (and it's relatively cheap compares to others). It is also called Duralumin or AU4G. Has anybody used this for building chassis?
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Old 8th November 2014, 04:02 AM   #73
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2017 is a good alloy for machining. It is intended for making turnings such as threaded parts. I don't know how well it bends. Probably will have cracks in the bends if they are not formed around a large radius.

Also I don't know what the "A" means. The letters normally stand for the temper.

Should be fine for making thick sturdy chassis.
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Old 8th November 2014, 09:25 AM   #74
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Thx simon! I have worked with 2017 before, but then it was a 20mm thick plate. I did some large round recess with a forstner drill bit and it's not hard to machine (a bit gummy though). Now I want to use 2017 for top/bottom chassis using 4mm thick plate, but I just don't know how sturdy the thinner plate, since i'll be attaching 20kg of heatsink (10kg ~ 20lbs on each side).
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Old 8th November 2014, 02:16 PM   #75
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Use thicker for the front and back, that should give you the strength even without the top and bottom.

To machine any aluminum a drop or two of kerosine will help the cutting action. The classic formula is kerosine and lard! Kerosine is available in small quantities as lamp oil. But absolutely do not confuse it with gasoline!

When tapping aluminum I use "Tap Magic" for aluminum. I wear out the tap before I break it!
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Old 18th November 2014, 08:00 PM   #76
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As far as tapping the aluminum goes just back the tap out now and again to clear the swath and it wont break
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