Binding posts Brass vs Copper : does really makes differences ? - Page 16 - diyAudio
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Old 1st February 2013, 03:57 PM   #151
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Quote:
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No, I don't think so. What do you mean?
That puzzles me, too. You have to specify diameter, material, finish, hole positions, threads... all parts of design. It's mechanical design, not electronics design, but it's design nonetheless.
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Old 1st February 2013, 10:50 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by tvrgeek View Post
Crossover trick: I cut up about 50 positions out of the euro-blocks. I use them for prototyping crossovers. I found my bundle of EZ-clip jumpers did not always give a reliable enough connection and made measurements erratic.
I guess the difference there between me and you is that my finished xover would still have the euroblock terminals joining everything together. Mostly because I'm lazy.

(But on the back of the speaker, always a Speakon. If for no other reason except that our cleaning person can detach it, vacuum behind the speaker, and reattach it, without the slightest chance of flipping polarity, joining two poles together, etc.)

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No, I don't think so. What do you mean?
It's just a binding post, that's what I mean. It may be styled slightly differently from other commodity parts that do the same thing in the same way, with the plastic cap, but design requires a bit more than minor physical differences. It's like the difference between a 1955 CitroŽn DS-19 and a 1955 Chevy. The former is designed from top to bottom. The latter is merely styled so as to look different from the previous year's model.
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Old 1st February 2013, 10:55 PM   #153
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Yeah, OK, whatever. Go make your own binding posts from scratch, pick an alloy, come up with a new grip shape and a logo to put on them and then tell the world how you "styled" them. I would say you designed them.

Maybe it's a language thing?
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Old 2nd February 2013, 02:44 PM   #154
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someone is mistaking design with engineer
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Old 4th February 2013, 03:22 AM   #155
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Originally Posted by Pano View Post
Yeah, OK, whatever. Go make your own binding posts from scratch, pick an alloy, come up with a new grip shape and a logo to put on them and then tell the world how you "styled" them. I would say you designed them.
None of that is industrial design, really. Except for the "grip shape," arguably.

But even that is more "styling" with a dollop "marketing" than "design."

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Maybe it's a language thing?
Perhaps. Are you a non-native English speaker?
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Old 4th February 2013, 03:46 AM   #156
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Pallas: it seems you are drawing lines where there are none, these relate to your own personal opinions/prejudice and have nothing to do with the definition of words.

It does seem that you are not understanding English correctly (this is being generous). Even if it were 99.9% styling and 0.1% engineering, it would be 100% designing.

Last edited by qusp; 4th February 2013 at 03:50 AM.
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Old 5th February 2013, 01:43 AM   #157
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I haven't read he whole thread, but I like copper, the corrosion thing is a non-issue with a quick application of Deoxit Gold.

I can't say for sure, but I have heard that Lanolin can do the same job *shrugs*
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Old 5th February 2013, 01:58 AM   #158
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Inductor,
I would assume from looking just at the picture above of the binding post that they are spaced for standard banana plug distances. I know most people here would not think of using a banana plug but people still do that, it is convenient if you are disconnecting the connections for some particular reason often enough. That is why you see the small diameter hole in the center of the center portion. Just try and attach some of the ridiculous terminal ends on many of the so called audiophile cables, all the room in the world won't help with many of them.
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Old 5th February 2013, 02:20 AM   #159
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I use bananas because I do swap out amps fairly often. I have fancy banana plugs that offer a tight fit.

Plus, I just like saying banana, banana, banana.
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Old 5th February 2013, 06:35 AM   #160
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Pano,
I always space my binding posts for banana plugs. If someone wants to use them then they can without problems. I have never found that the spacing is to close to attach a cable to them if they are good enough to work and allow the binding post to tighten down on them. I have used some extremely costly cable ends that are a major pain in the rear, I won't name names but they would take a vise grip to tighten up on them..... I use banana plugs also when I am just doing a quick setup, so much more convenient. What I have heard but have not confirmed is that in the EU you can not use the correct spacing for an American dual banana plug standard as there are countries using ac power connectors with the same spacing. Anyone know about this fact or was that just a proposal?
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