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#131 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Md
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Pallis,
I use both kinds. Euroblock is the way to go to butt two wires. The old US style is better when you are using ring or spade lugs. You can put two lugs below each screw reliably. Three gets ugly and you need longer screws. Neither should ever be used with un-tinned stranded wire. When I can get the ones with a single screw and a post out the back I use them. Otherwise I bring a solid wire through the back of one row of screw holes and solder it to the plate. Same effect. All of the euro-block bars I have bought seem about he same quality (just fine) , where there are big differences in quality of the US style terminal strips. If I was worried about cosmetics on the speaker rear, I think I would recess the connector add put a cover plate over it. Crossover trick: I cut up about 50 positions out of the euro-blocks. I use them for prototyping crossovers. I found my bundle of EZ-clip jumpers did not always give a reliable enough connection and made measurements erratic. |
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#132 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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It still amazes me every time I get something right Last edited by mondogenerator; 31st January 2013 at 08:53 PM. |
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#133 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Winterswijk
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I get tired of people who want to tell there is no difference where others simple do the test and can hear improvement.
Then the nonbelievers try to convince them it is only in their mind. With that kind of thinking you can not improve your current level.
__________________
( (( KUGELWELLE )) ) recent projects :OB-mk1 /fatboy / monitor-xl / Horn-AM / dappolito / td124-mk1-rb301 / Hybrid-pse / Vfet |
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#134 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
you can avoid chasing down a blind alley and focus on what really matters instead sure, if you have the money, why not just don't believe its that important or critial to achieve good sound I would say its more like mounting a fishing rod handle with diamonds looks good, and worth every penny, or more but if you try to convince your fishing friends that it also catches bigger fish, they will just shake their heads and laugh, as always
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#135 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Winterswijk
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My experience is that every part contributes to the end result, question is how much is the influence of the separate part. In this case the binding post.
There are for example designers who state when you use copper then use everything made of copper,input connector to loudspeaker. I can imagine there are thermocouple effects with different metals. Wiring like copper has group-delay effects personally I think there we can find a answer on the cable effects. Carbon for example has no group-delay. The problem is not resistance losses it are other effects that cause sound differences. Deny it wont solve the question. People who deny these effects, they better do not bother these kind of topics they are just ballast.
__________________
( (( KUGELWELLE )) ) recent projects :OB-mk1 /fatboy / monitor-xl / Horn-AM / dappolito / td124-mk1-rb301 / Hybrid-pse / Vfet Last edited by Helmuth; 31st January 2013 at 09:37 PM. |
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#136 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
must be silver ![]() hey, remember all them screws must be non magnetic brass ![]() but man, even when its true, and works...it will drive you nuts, and get you nowhere, really you can trust me on that, it's a wild goose chase been there, done that ![]()
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#137 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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No, this is not correct at all.
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If there's a sucker born every minute, where do the rest of them come from? |
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#138 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Md
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Please. Just do a little exercise on paper. Draw the circuit. Every single piece of the output. Transformer, rectifier, caps, final stage, etc. Every connection, wire, relay, and component. Continue out the amp through the binding posts, cables up to the binding posts in question. Now continue on inside the speaker to the wires, connectors, coils, caps, resistors, and eventually down to the voice coil made of several Ohms of copper, or for some aluminum. Try to redraw it with all the parastatic components. Then come back and tell me the percent of copper in the binding point can be relevant beyond aesthetics. Sorry, hope or belief just don't change physics.
There are a lot of things we need to do to improve in our speakers. Things that make dramatic differences. Drivers, crossovers, even a lot of differences in opinion about high or low Q cabinet material, e.g MDF vs plywood arguments. Is 3/4 inch baffle radius really enough? Why can't we build a decent coaxial? |
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#139 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
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The material makes a difference, the power cord on your equipment makes a difference, everything makes a difference to the sound,Not when you have cloudy speakers ....
__________________
A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be. -Albert Einstein |
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#140 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
just pray and hope you won't depend too much on it ![]() and btw, if you depend on it, and don't have the right revealing sound and reproduction of music without 'it', then you do have cloudy speakers so... if you think carefully about it, it's really the other way round
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