Binding posts Brass vs Copper : does really makes differences ? - Page 12 - diyAudio
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Old 31st January 2013, 03:02 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SY View Post
Three things matter here:

1. Connection quality.
2. Connection quality.
3. Connection quality.

Why is that so difficult to understand?
If limiting to three, defining "quality" is helpful:
1. Initial electrical resistance of the connection, ideally being as close to zero ohms impedance as possible.
2. Resistance of the mating surfaces to corrosion, which can eventually increase impedance to infinity or create an impedance curve that affects frequency and dynamic range variations.
3. Resistance of the mating surfaces to physical deformation, deformation can also increase electrical impedance to a point of audible detection.

Point # 3 is often a problem for DIY types who tend to use the connections often, while #2 is the greater problem for static situations, especially in salt air environments.

The problem with #1 is "connection quality" is almost always good for most connectors initially, it's what happens down the road that separates the wheat from the chaff.
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Old 31st January 2013, 03:10 PM   #112
SY is offline SY  United States
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Precisely why I made the point in more detail earlier on in this thread. The focus on irrelevancies like diameter diverts attention from exactly those issues.
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Old 31st January 2013, 03:16 PM   #113
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One comment on the "Dynaco" type screw terminals mentioned a few pages back. I now work for a company that does a lot of professional installations. These are for audio, video, and contact closure/power supply to external effects. Reliability is crucial and most of the connections are screw connections of some kind. the Old Dynaco/McIntosh etc. barrier strips are still used. However it is crucial to use them with matching spade connectors. Bare or stranded wires were an invitation to shorts and every amplifier manual in the 50s/60s had pretty diagrams about the evils of wires touching.

The only problem is that the wires then get crimped into spade connectors and the reliability problem migrates upstream (personally I would solder them into the spade connector. Too often a wire can be yanked out of a crimped spade connector). Still, the industry considers this a reliable connection.

The other half of our gear uses wires screwed into Phoenix connectors of various types. This is seldom bare wires, more frequently it is with crimped on pins that are screwed into the terminals. This gives a cleaner installation and less chance of shorting between wires.

David S.
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Old 31st January 2013, 03:19 PM   #114
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There is crimping and there is crimping.

A proper crimped joint is considered a cold weld and is superior to soldering.

A poor crimped joint is just wires squashed into a connector - that is a difefrent matter altogether.
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Old 31st January 2013, 03:30 PM   #115
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One problem with a "proper" crimped joint is that if there is sufficient pressure applied to make a good oxygen free joint, one also risks imbrittlement (work hardening) of the local area which may cause stress cracks and breakage. Thus, solder.
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Old 31st January 2013, 04:26 PM   #116
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With the "right tool" crimping is best ......
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Old 31st January 2013, 04:46 PM   #117
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Crimping is ok. I use Cembre crimps at work, and they arent half bad. However, the addition of soldering is almost necessary in circumstances. Pros dont bother, probably because given 5 years in a damp or salty atmosphere they degrade and need replacing. The only crimps Id consider a cold weld are the hydraulically applied types which are from 70 sqmm upwards. In those sizes the wire will break before it can slip. Speakon and XLR are great, until the contacts get dirty, and require regular cleaning. Not a problem with multi kW pro sound, but more of an issue with HE speakers and flea watt amps id suspect. Most are rated at 5mOhm contact R, clean bare wire or crimps, and binding posts are significantly better. I use binding posts for a resistance bridge measuring 20mOhms range. Joint R is a fraction of an mOhm. My 2 pence.
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Last edited by mondogenerator; 31st January 2013 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 31st January 2013, 05:01 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SY View Post
They're changed from time to time. This one is from a rather controversial fellow named John Derbyshire.

Eddy currents?
yeah I know, I usually dig them, but this one stood out and I wanted to know. thanks for the tip i'll look him up.

ive gone in a different direction with the current build.
i'm using Lemos for signal, 4 way speakons and ITT 8 way Cannon Bayonette MIL on the next multiway rear panel. easy, very secure and with hermetically sealed solder and mating connections. anything else gets pretty stoopid on multiway, multi-amped speakers and amps. i'll double up on the bass so 2 x 16awg pins per phase, then 1 each phase for the mids and highs

hard silver plate, but I dont expect them to degrade to quickly with no oxygen. the model # on the panel mount is CA3102E20-7P-B

Last edited by qusp; 31st January 2013 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 31st January 2013, 05:04 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by mondogenerator View Post
Crimping is ok. I use Cembre crimps at work, and they arent half bad. However, the addition of soldering is almost necessary in circumstances. Pros dont bother, probably because given 5 years in a damp or salty atmosphere they degrade and need replacing. The only crimps Id consider a cold weld are the hydraulically applied types which are from 70 sqmm upwards. In those sizes the wire will break before it can slip. Speakon and XLR are great, until the contacts get dirty, and require regular cleaning. Not a problem with multi kW pro sound, but more of an issue with HE speakers and flea watt amps id suspect. Most are rated at 5mOhm contact R, clean bare wire or crimps, and binding posts are significantly better. I use binding posts for a resistance bridge measuring 20mOhms range. Joint R is a fraction of an mOhm. My 2 pence.
I do solder if not crimped with the correct tool, when doing FAA harness's crimping is what is allowed, you need the right tool and connector, when crimped correctly much better than any solder joint ..

No heat also means no compromise to the insulator ....

http://aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
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Old 31st January 2013, 05:12 PM   #120
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yeah if I had the choice I would have chosen crimped for the Cannons, but I got the panel mounts and connectors on the FS area here for a song (pretty awesome if you know what these connectors are worth) and the crimping tools for them run to several hundred dollars.
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