|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Parts Where to get, and how to make the best bits. PCB's, caps, transformers, etc. |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
|
I used 14 gauge speaker wire to connect my amp and PS. But it doesn't want to stay in the onboard connectors. The instructions just say to use the largest wire that can fit, not what type. Is there something better? Or do I just need a better screwdriver?
Thank you, Duane |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
|
Most speaker cable uses fine stranded wire, some screw terminals might not be happy with fine stranded wire.
What type of connectors? Do you have tools? Can you solder?
__________________
Kevin |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
The wire seems fine, it's just your connection that's the problem. Solder each wire end to an inch or two length of 14 or 16 gauge SOLID copper wire (as in Romex style house wiring wire), and use the solid wire (perhaps trim as needed) on the connectors. Put electrical tape or preferrably shrink-wrap tubing over the solder joint.
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mar del Plata, a BIG seasonal getaway city, can see the Ocean from our residence.
|
I just use a tinned wire end....the solder fills the 'gaps' in the stranding & if the connector is the screw-down type, the solder deforms making a "bowl" in the wire formed by the screw tip, often 'hooking' the wire in the appliance.
__________________________________________________ _________Rick.... |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
|
Thanks guys, these are board mounted screwdown terminals. I don't have a pic handy but I think they are quite standard. They seem to have a metal spring/plate that holds the wire in place. Then the set screw pushes on that. I think that solid or tinned wire will work just fine. I have lots of romex. Is there any difference aside from flexability? (I'm sure I spelled that wrong.)
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
|
The spell-checker thinks that it's - flexibility.
One thing about solder-tinning stranded wire & screw terminals is that the solder with time will cold-flow and allow the screw to loosen. Whit I do is strip back about 1/8inch or more of the insulation and solder-tin. Then I strip back another 1/2inch of insulation to go under the screw.
__________________
Kevin |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Hookup Wire | cags | Parts | 2 | 6th November 2010 05:46 PM |
| hookup wire | sewerwisp | Parts | 3 | 21st September 2010 12:30 AM |
| Hookup wire | Buzzy | Solid State | 6 | 4th July 2008 01:39 AM |
| hookup wire question | marchewd | Analog Line Level | 7 | 6th March 2007 09:47 PM |
| Hookup Wire Q | matthewm | Chip Amps | 3 | 22nd November 2006 04:06 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |