DIY silver non inductive ww resistors

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I want to smack myself.
These are .8 ohms and go in the midrange crossover.
I really want to smack myself.
I have been putting these off for a very long time because I did not want to buy insulated silver wire.
I don't know why but I havn't been able to bring myself to pay insulated wire prices.
My guess is, it is the unsurity of how much wire do I need? Could I wind them myself? What if there was no improvement?
So I put it off.

They are not pretty.
I don't care.
I could try to wipe the smile off my face but it would be difficult.
I need a smack.
 

Attachments

  • mvc-353s.jpg
    mvc-353s.jpg
    38.6 KB · Views: 1,782
A) Has it ever been empirically(or even popularly) proven that silver sounds better? I've seen lots of people claiming it's too bright for them to use in their systems for ICs.

B) How much resistance do you get per length?

C) Are you worrying at all about excess capacitance caused by doing this?
 
diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
Hi,

A) Has it ever been empirically(or even popularly) proven that silver sounds better? I've seen lots of people claiming it's too bright for them to use in their systems for ICs.

If you decide to use silver, use it throughout.
For reasons beyond me that works.


B) How much resistance do you get per length?

8% less than the equivalent copper wire and 35% better sound.

C) Are you worrying at all about excess capacitance caused by doing this?

It's meant for low impedance service so capacitance shouldn't be a major concern.

Cheers,;)
 
randytsuch said:
Curious how much wire it took to make one, and how much one of those ended up costing?

By bifilar, I am guessing you mean you wound 1/2 the resistor in one direction, and the other 1/2 in the other direction?

Randy

They each use about 26 feet of 36ga fine silver wire.
The first winding is 1.6 ohm. The second winding is 1.6 ohm and is wound the oposite way. When tied together the give .8 ohms resistance .

Squalish said:
A) Has it ever been empirically(or even popularly) proven that silver sounds better? I've seen lots of people claiming it's too bright for them to use in their systems for ICs.

B) How much resistance do you get per length?

C) Are you worrying at all about excess capacitance caused by doing this?

At my house silver sounds better.
I can't measure the capacitance it is too low.

I just made some copper ones 7.2 ohms.
I can't wait to try them.
 
tom1356 said:
Because silver sounds better than anything else.

Ah, but does two dozen feet of silver necessarily sound better than two inches of something else? Less is more, yes? :)

I just made some copper ones 7.2 ohms.
I can't wait to try them.

Good luck with 'em!

I just got these today. They're 32 ohm 5 watters I had custom made "nude" and using a 55% copper alloy instead of the typical nichrome. They're for a headphone amp though, not loudspeakers.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


se
 
Steve Eddy said:


Ah, but does two dozen feet of silver necessarily sound better than two inches of something else? Less is more, yes? :)



Good luck with 'em!

I just got these today. They're 32 ohm 5 watters I had custom made "nude" and using a 55% copper alloy instead of the typical nichrome. They're for a headphone amp though, not loudspeakers.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


se
The two dozen feet of silver sound so much better than 2 inches of anything a resistor is currently made of.
Less crap in the resistor is more, you are right.

Those look very cool
I would like to hear your impressions of them.

This is the 7.2 ohm copper wire resistor.
 

Attachments

  • mvc-359s.jpg
    mvc-359s.jpg
    36.4 KB · Views: 1,183
tom1356 said:
Those look very cool

But VERY delicate. The discontinuity between the end caps and the core is the weak point (it's 50 gauge wire). I already boinked one taking it off the scanner. :)

Think I'm going to have to put a daub of something at the wire welds to protect them.

I would like to hear your impressions of them.

Sure. Might be a while yet. Got another amp I need to finish before I start on this one.

This is the 7.2 ohm copper wire resistor.

Coolness!

Hasn't someone done up some resistors like this before? It looks very familiar. Not that yours are those, just that they remind me of something I recall seeing before.

se
 
Steve Eddy said:

*sniped*

Hasn't someone done up some resistors like this before? It looks very familiar. Not that yours are those, just that they remind me of something I recall seeing before.

se

Yes they are swiped from Audio Consulting.
Theirs have got to be way better than mine but you never hear about people using them. Wonder why?
If they are even as good as mine they should tell more people.
I think it's the $500.00 knob they sell. It makes everything on their site look expensive.

I'm picking up more wire tomorrow to make more of these.
Huge bang for the buck with these.

The silver .08 ohm ones cost about $3-4.00 each to make.
The copper 7.2 ohm ones a dollar or so.
 
tom1356 said:
Yes they are swiped from Audio Consulting.
Theirs have got to be way better than mine but you never hear about people using them. Wonder why?
If they are even as good as mine they should tell more people.
I think it's the $500.00 knob they sell. It makes everything on their site look expensive.

Hehehe. Nah, it's not the knob, it's the... Audiophile Pricetag! :)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I'm picking up more wire tomorrow to make more of these.
Huge bang for the buck with these.

The silver .08 ohm ones cost about $3-4.00 each to make.
The copper 7.2 ohm ones a dollar or so.

Not bad. Hell, you can beg that much change in front of the grocery store in less than an hour. :)

se
 
diyAudio Editor
Joined 2001
Paid Member
I thought to make bifilar non-inductive all you have to do is wrap 2 wires at the same time along a core, then connect the ends together on one end. The two wires on the other end are the in and out , right?

That way the current flows down the core spiraling lets say in the clockwise direction, then returns through the other wire, in effect going counterclockwise.

Even though the two wires together are wrapped in the same direction, the current is flowing in opposite directions in each wire so cancels out ? right?
So you don't need two layers I think.

Tom, Where did you get your insulated silver wire?
 
Variac said:
I thought to make bifilar non-inductive all you have to do is wrap 2 wires at the same time along a core, then connect the ends together on one end. The two wires on the other end are the in and out , right?

It looks to me like the pair of wires are just wound side-by-side from one end to the other and twisted together at each end. If that's the case, then it'll be highly inducitve.

Ayrton-Perry has the two wires wrapped oppositely around the core, but because these wires aren't insulated, you wouldn't be able to do that because the wires have to cross over each other.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


se
 
diyAudio Editor
Joined 2001
Paid Member
That would be inductive! and you are right that the way he did it would be inductive. He is counting on the 2 layers he puts on in opposite directions to be make it non-inductive. To do it the way I thought, you have to twist them only at one end. The other end then has the 2 leads.

OR, you take your entire length of wire and fold it in two . Start wrapping bifilarly by fastening the bent center portion to the core.

the free ends on the other end of the core,- those are your leads

The A-P method is what Frank was referring to, but I now wonder if this reallly necessary if the leads are both on one end.
 
Variac said:
That would be inductive! and you are right that would be inductive. He is counting on the 2 layers he puts on in opposite directions to be make it non-inductive. To do it the way I thought, you have to twist them only at one end. The other end then has the 2 leads.

OR, you take your entire length of wire and fold it in two . Start wrapping bifilarly by fastening the bent center portion to the core.

the free ends on the other end of the core,- those are your leads

Right.

The A-P method is what Frank was referring to, but I now wonder if this reallly necessary.

Not sure what the difference in inductance would be using the Ayrton-Perry winding versus the scheme you mention above.

Got an inductance meter handy? :)

se
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.