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Old 25th October 2003, 03:35 AM   #11
tom1356 is offline tom1356  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Steve Eddy


Ah, but does two dozen feet of silver necessarily sound better than two inches of something else? Less is more, yes?



Good luck with 'em!

I just got these today. They're 32 ohm 5 watters I had custom made "nude" and using a 55% copper alloy instead of the typical nichrome. They're for a headphone amp though, not loudspeakers.

Click the image to open in full size.

se
The two dozen feet of silver sound so much better than 2 inches of anything a resistor is currently made of.
Less crap in the resistor is more, you are right.

Those look very cool
I would like to hear your impressions of them.

This is the 7.2 ohm copper wire resistor.
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Old 25th October 2003, 04:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by tom1356
Those look very cool
But VERY delicate. The discontinuity between the end caps and the core is the weak point (it's 50 gauge wire). I already boinked one taking it off the scanner.

Think I'm going to have to put a daub of something at the wire welds to protect them.

Quote:
I would like to hear your impressions of them.
Sure. Might be a while yet. Got another amp I need to finish before I start on this one.

Quote:
This is the 7.2 ohm copper wire resistor.
Coolness!

Hasn't someone done up some resistors like this before? It looks very familiar. Not that yours are those, just that they remind me of something I recall seeing before.

se
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Old 25th October 2003, 04:27 AM   #13
SY is offline SY  United States
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One caution for home-made resistors and caps- they can tend toward microphonics. The "improvements" that can be heard are often just stuff rattling around.
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Old 25th October 2003, 04:32 AM   #14
tom1356 is offline tom1356  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Steve Eddy

*sniped*

Hasn't someone done up some resistors like this before? It looks very familiar. Not that yours are those, just that they remind me of something I recall seeing before.

se
Yes they are swiped from Audio Consulting.
Theirs have got to be way better than mine but you never hear about people using them. Wonder why?
If they are even as good as mine they should tell more people.
I think it's the $500.00 knob they sell. It makes everything on their site look expensive.

I'm picking up more wire tomorrow to make more of these.
Huge bang for the buck with these.

The silver .08 ohm ones cost about $3-4.00 each to make.
The copper 7.2 ohm ones a dollar or so.
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Old 25th October 2003, 05:16 AM   #15
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Originally posted by tom1356
Yes they are swiped from Audio Consulting.
Theirs have got to be way better than mine but you never hear about people using them. Wonder why?
If they are even as good as mine they should tell more people.
I think it's the $500.00 knob they sell. It makes everything on their site look expensive.
Hehehe. Nah, it's not the knob, it's the... Audiophile Pricetag!

Click the image to open in full size.

Quote:
I'm picking up more wire tomorrow to make more of these.
Huge bang for the buck with these.

The silver .08 ohm ones cost about $3-4.00 each to make.
The copper 7.2 ohm ones a dollar or so.
Not bad. Hell, you can beg that much change in front of the grocery store in less than an hour.

se
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Old 25th October 2003, 07:13 AM   #16
Variac is online now Variac  United States
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I thought to make bifilar non-inductive all you have to do is wrap 2 wires at the same time along a core, then connect the ends together on one end. The two wires on the other end are the in and out , right?

That way the current flows down the core spiraling lets say in the clockwise direction, then returns through the other wire, in effect going counterclockwise.

Even though the two wires together are wrapped in the same direction, the current is flowing in opposite directions in each wire so cancels out ? right?
So you don't need two layers I think.

Tom, Where did you get your insulated silver wire?
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Old 26th October 2003, 12:19 AM   #17
tom1356 is offline tom1356  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Steve Eddy


*sniped*

Not bad. Hell, you can beg that much change in front of the grocery store in less than an hour.

se
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Quote:
Originally posted by Variac

*sniped*
Tom, Where did you get your insulated silver wire?
The wire was not insulated. thats why they look so bad. I had to leave a tiny space between each wind.
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Old 26th October 2003, 01:10 AM   #18
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Originally posted by Variac
I thought to make bifilar non-inductive all you have to do is wrap 2 wires at the same time along a core, then connect the ends together on one end. The two wires on the other end are the in and out , right?
It looks to me like the pair of wires are just wound side-by-side from one end to the other and twisted together at each end. If that's the case, then it'll be highly inducitve.

Ayrton-Perry has the two wires wrapped oppositely around the core, but because these wires aren't insulated, you wouldn't be able to do that because the wires have to cross over each other.

Click the image to open in full size.

se
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Old 26th October 2003, 01:15 AM   #19
Variac is online now Variac  United States
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That would be inductive! and you are right that the way he did it would be inductive. He is counting on the 2 layers he puts on in opposite directions to be make it non-inductive. To do it the way I thought, you have to twist them only at one end. The other end then has the 2 leads.

OR, you take your entire length of wire and fold it in two . Start wrapping bifilarly by fastening the bent center portion to the core.

the free ends on the other end of the core,- those are your leads

The A-P method is what Frank was referring to, but I now wonder if this reallly necessary if the leads are both on one end.
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Old 26th October 2003, 01:22 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Variac
That would be inductive! and you are right that would be inductive. He is counting on the 2 layers he puts on in opposite directions to be make it non-inductive. To do it the way I thought, you have to twist them only at one end. The other end then has the 2 leads.

OR, you take your entire length of wire and fold it in two . Start wrapping bifilarly by fastening the bent center portion to the core.

the free ends on the other end of the core,- those are your leads
Right.

Quote:
The A-P method is what Frank was referring to, but I now wonder if this reallly necessary.
Not sure what the difference in inductance would be using the Ayrton-Perry winding versus the scheme you mention above.

Got an inductance meter handy?

se
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