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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
Jean-Paul That last sentence caught my attention! My sub is decoupled w/ 4.7uF. If the op amp fails, could it still damage the sub? I haven't connected it yet, still testing it w/ an old speaker/amp. Seems to be working fine...so far. Wouldn't the op amp warm up if run at maximum, it's runs at room temp now? David |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
Are you suggesting 2 zenner diodes to limit voltage? |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
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Op amps can fail even if run within the ratings. Some kind of
speaker protection is always useful. Maybe Jean-Paul has a differing opinion, but I think the worst that can happen if an op amp fails due to overvoltage is DC out. A capacitor on the output should protect the speakers in this case. |
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
Thanks again Christer David |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Quote:
Agreed, but I'd prefer a capacitorless coupling with the subwoofer and a circuit running below absolute max. to be sure it has a long usefull life. Besides that I think ( no, I am sure ) a 4.7 uF in series with the subwoofer is a tad too small ![]() Please calculate the -3dB point and you'll see what I mean.
__________________
It's only audio |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
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I assumed the 4.7uF cap was after the opamps but before the
power amp, otherwise it sounds way off from a reasonable value. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: UK (south west)
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If you want to be cautious why not try using some 3 terminal regulators, eg LM78 / 79 (or similar), to drop down to +/- 15V ?
The 5534/32's should be pretty bullet proof then ... I would not use a zener in series with the supply lines (too noisy and poor regulation) or a zener shunt regulator - the 3 terminal regulator would be just as easy to do and will give better results. BTW - is your +/- 22V supply regulated or just smoothed ? My **guess** would be that +/-22V will be OK, providing .... (1) the PSU doesn't go above +/-22V --EVER--. (2) You don't try to get max output swing into a low impedance load (rated to do 32V swing from +/-18V). (3) You don't try testing the claim to "indefinite" short circuit protection !!!! Dave Dave |
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
I think I'll try either the lm7815 option or replace the transformer. It's only $5 canadian. (about 5c in real money )Thanks again |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Make that LM7818/7918. More headroom and far enough from the max. values. +/- 20 V would be nicer though.
My advice is to better phrase your questions as you see there is confusion. It is also better to reply at the questions members pose. We still don't know if the PSU is regulated or not, what voltage the transformer is and if the 4.7 uF is in series with the subwoofer or between the active filter and the sub-amplifier. You see ? A schematic might help as well in confusing items. A simple block diagram will do in this case.
__________________
It's only audio |
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#20 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
The PS in not regulated, the 4.7uF is in series w/ the subwoofer power amp. As for the replies, I have only a few minutes here and there during my day to scan the replies; other necessities of life preval unfortunately. I'ts more a matter of unintended oversight than anything else. All your interest and assistance is valuable to me. David |
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