Hello all.
I have a subwoofer amp (Reckhorn A402) that has some swelled caps that need replacing. Lots on Ebay, I was keen on these (2 pcs ELNA Audio Electrolytic Capacitors 80V 10000uF | eBay) but saw a thread on here which debates the authenticity of them. (it was well over a year old though)
Would they be ok? or if not, what would anyone recommend for a replacement of the below caps? they are rated at 80v 10000uF size 35mm width by 50mm height.
I will aslo post this in another thread, but just in case someone local is reading this. Im not 100% confident on replacing and testing these myself. Is there anyone on the forum from the inner west of Sydney or near abouts that can either point me in the right direction of a repairer, or wants to make a bit of cash on the side? ( Im not sure if this would be a stock spare a repairer would have, so id prefer to supply them with the part, unless you think that crazy)
thanks for any help
dave
I have a subwoofer amp (Reckhorn A402) that has some swelled caps that need replacing. Lots on Ebay, I was keen on these (2 pcs ELNA Audio Electrolytic Capacitors 80V 10000uF | eBay) but saw a thread on here which debates the authenticity of them. (it was well over a year old though)
Would they be ok? or if not, what would anyone recommend for a replacement of the below caps? they are rated at 80v 10000uF size 35mm width by 50mm height.
I will aslo post this in another thread, but just in case someone local is reading this. Im not 100% confident on replacing and testing these myself. Is there anyone on the forum from the inner west of Sydney or near abouts that can either point me in the right direction of a repairer, or wants to make a bit of cash on the side? ( Im not sure if this would be a stock spare a repairer would have, so id prefer to supply them with the part, unless you think that crazy)
thanks for any help
dave
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Hi Dave, I have one of those caps that was posted to my by another forum member who was selling them. Whilst I can't say definitely yay or nay as to whether it is a real elna, It certainly appears to be a good quality cap. He was not from HK though so no idea about the ones you linked to.
Wit respect to repairers in Sydney I'm not aware of any. They tend to be a dying breed, we live in such a disposable society these days
Any you do find are likely to charge quite a bit. I hot my marantz DVD player fixed about 6 or 7 years ago and it was minimum charge of $150 if I recall correctly.
Caps of that size in australia are quite hard to come buy (and usually expensive) so supplying yourself is not a silly thought IMO
x-on have some that might suit. Nothing flash but seem to be the size you need. X-ON Electronics|Buy Online Over 2 Million Parts|Best $|Best Sales Support in Australia (I think from memory x-on have a flat $15 shipping and handling fee).
element14 have these http://au.element14.com/united-chem...t/cap-alum-electr-10mf-80v-snap-in/dp/1838772 not sure if they still have free shipping or not...
Tony.
Wit respect to repairers in Sydney I'm not aware of any. They tend to be a dying breed, we live in such a disposable society these days
Any you do find are likely to charge quite a bit. I hot my marantz DVD player fixed about 6 or 7 years ago and it was minimum charge of $150 if I recall correctly. Caps of that size in australia are quite hard to come buy (and usually expensive) so supplying yourself is not a silly thought IMO
x-on have some that might suit. Nothing flash but seem to be the size you need. X-ON Electronics|Buy Online Over 2 Million Parts|Best $|Best Sales Support in Australia (I think from memory x-on have a flat $15 shipping and handling fee).
element14 have these http://au.element14.com/united-chem...t/cap-alum-electr-10mf-80v-snap-in/dp/1838772 not sure if they still have free shipping or not...
Tony.
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yes if it has failed and is rated at 105 deg, then running with 85deg caps will likely result in even earlier failure (unless the original caps were faulty).
The life of the caps is rated at their temperature rating (say 3000 hours at 85deg) if you run then at less than the rated temp they last a lot longer. If you run them over the temp then expect dramatically shorter lifetime.
Have a search on element14 you can specify temp etc and see if they have anything else suitable. alternatively you could check mouser or digikey in the states, but make sure you check both the US site and the au site because sometimes the au pricing is much more than the US (which with the current exchange rate means it is better to buy in $US) .
Tony.
The life of the caps is rated at their temperature rating (say 3000 hours at 85deg) if you run then at less than the rated temp they last a lot longer. If you run them over the temp then expect dramatically shorter lifetime.
Have a search on element14 you can specify temp etc and see if they have anything else suitable. alternatively you could check mouser or digikey in the states, but make sure you check both the US site and the au site because sometimes the au pricing is much more than the US (which with the current exchange rate means it is better to buy in $US) .
Tony.
just got word back from Reckhorn that the 85 degree would be fine. which do you think would be a better bet to go with then?
X-ON Electronics|Buy Online Over 2 Million Parts|Best $|Best Sales Support in Australia
or the Elna ebay ones?
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d?r
thanks a lot for your help and time Tony.
Its really appreciated.
X-ON Electronics|Buy Online Over 2 Million Parts|Best $|Best Sales Support in Australia
or the Elna ebay ones?
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d?r
thanks a lot for your help and time Tony.
Its really appreciated.
I hope this will help
Neuhold Elektronik die Fundgrube für den Hobby-Elektroniker Elko 10.000uF/80V
Neuhold Elektronik die Fundgrube für den Hobby-Elektroniker Elko 10.000uF/80V
Hi Dave, the ebay ones are a bit of a lucky dip. firstly because there are no specs, and secondly because of the notoriousness of fake caps on ebay.
The ncihicons whilst not having an audio label, do have good specs. they should be low ESR (tan theta of 0.2) and they have good ripple current handling (over 6A).
The Ebay ones may be fine, or maybe they won't be. I'd personally go for the Nichicons as at least you know what you are getting, and the cost is not too much higher.
If you do look for a repairer you could ask them about caps before you get it done, they might have a supplier of good caps that will match or better the price. I was a bit surprised when I found the caps at X-ON, I bought some 10,000uF 80V caps a couple of years ago and at that time they were very scarse and very expensive here in aus.
Tony.
The ncihicons whilst not having an audio label, do have good specs. they should be low ESR (tan theta of 0.2) and they have good ripple current handling (over 6A).
The Ebay ones may be fine, or maybe they won't be. I'd personally go for the Nichicons as at least you know what you are getting, and the cost is not too much higher.
If you do look for a repairer you could ask them about caps before you get it done, they might have a supplier of good caps that will match or better the price. I was a bit surprised when I found the caps at X-ON, I bought some 10,000uF 80V caps a couple of years ago and at that time they were very scarse and very expensive here in aus.
Tony.
thanks all for the responses. I ended up ordering the Nichicons from X-ON.
Ill give it a go doing it myself. What could possible go wrong ;-)
Hopefully that is all the problems!
On that. And I know its hard to diagnose without the amp being in fron of you, but if it worked fine, just had the occasional pop (every 30 seconds or so) would that just point to the capacitors? I surprised it even still worked? Keen to get some advise on the best way people check other components. Are there any good online videos that help explain the best way to diagnose electrical issues with a mulitmeter (thats all i own).
btw. I will personally insert all disclaimers saying that I do anything at my own risk and take all responsibility for my actions.
thank
Ill give it a go doing it myself. What could possible go wrong ;-)
Hopefully that is all the problems!
On that. And I know its hard to diagnose without the amp being in fron of you, but if it worked fine, just had the occasional pop (every 30 seconds or so) would that just point to the capacitors? I surprised it even still worked? Keen to get some advise on the best way people check other components. Are there any good online videos that help explain the best way to diagnose electrical issues with a mulitmeter (thats all i own).
btw. I will personally insert all disclaimers saying that I do anything at my own risk and take all responsibility for my actions.
thank
OK it is probably good that it was still playing. I've never had PS caps go like that so can't say from experience whether the noises you are hearing are a result of the failed caps, or the failed caps are a symptom of another problem, but I would guess it is more likely that your noises are due to the failed caps.
for the job of replacing the caps I'd recommend getting a solder sucker and some desolder braid.
I've got one of these Metal Desolder Tool - Jaycar Electronics which I find much better than the bulb type.
I use it to get the big blobs of solder off and then clean up with some of this 3.0mm GOOT Desolder Braid - Jaycar Electronics
You are much less likely to lift the tracks on the board if you use a good desolder tool and some desoldering braid. the caps should come straight out after that and the holes should be clear for putting the new ones in.
I for a long time only used a multimeter for troubleshooting. My main trick though won't work with a sub amp. That is with a two channel amp check the voltages at various points on the working channel to narrow down where the problem is on the not working one. If you can get hold of a schematic for the amp though it should hopefully have voltages marked at various important places.
A scope is invaluable, I have a real one now but before that I used pc scope software and generated sine waves from the sound card, I bought a silicon chip sound card preamp (to buffer the sound card from the device being tested) and a cheap jacar oscilloscope probe. There are free scope programs available for the pc and they are quite useful for troubleshooting. you put the sine wave in, and can trace the circuit probing at various points until you find where the signal goes bad.
Tony.
for the job of replacing the caps I'd recommend getting a solder sucker and some desolder braid.
I've got one of these Metal Desolder Tool - Jaycar Electronics which I find much better than the bulb type.
I use it to get the big blobs of solder off and then clean up with some of this 3.0mm GOOT Desolder Braid - Jaycar Electronics
You are much less likely to lift the tracks on the board if you use a good desolder tool and some desoldering braid. the caps should come straight out after that and the holes should be clear for putting the new ones in.
I for a long time only used a multimeter for troubleshooting. My main trick though won't work with a sub amp. That is with a two channel amp check the voltages at various points on the working channel to narrow down where the problem is on the not working one. If you can get hold of a schematic for the amp though it should hopefully have voltages marked at various important places.
A scope is invaluable, I have a real one now but before that I used pc scope software and generated sine waves from the sound card, I bought a silicon chip sound card preamp (to buffer the sound card from the device being tested) and a cheap jacar oscilloscope probe. There are free scope programs available for the pc and they are quite useful for troubleshooting. you put the sine wave in, and can trace the circuit probing at various points until you find where the signal goes bad.
Tony.
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How did you go with this repair? I have a good stock of 10,000uf 80V and I've experienced fakes, in fact this is one of a set of fakes that I got off Ebay, they were very easy to spot being visibly different to the genuine parts, different lugs and plastic tops.
I tried to blow it up with reverse polarity but it didn't even give me a good blow !! just a hissy fit
I tried to blow it up with reverse polarity but it didn't even give me a good blow !! just a hissy fit
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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