Mullard ECC82 (12AU7) for trade or sale
I was thinking of auctioning this on Ebay,
but it occurred to me that someone here might have
an Octet (8) of Svetlana 6L6GCs to trade for it. :)
Best price I've found for SV 6L6s seems to be about $25,
but you guys probably cut far better deals on them than I can find.
Anyway, I'm not collecting Mullards anymore;
I'm trying to build some guitar amps.
Maybe 10 EL34s JJ would be as good, I don't know.
This was given to me 'NIB', with original wrappings,
but its been out for testing several times anyway.
one triode tests 71 the other 75 on my CanArmy Tube Tester.
Because its NOS and long-plates date from the late 50s,
I can't offer any warrantees as to how many hours it may last,
or its suitability for any particular circuit.
Are you sure that is a genuine Mullard? The print does not look like any Mullard I have seen before. The box and the wrapping look genuine, though. What is the etch code? Does it have seams on the top of the glass?
The 'Blackburne' code on this one is
261 B8C (one brown etch over the other). (or possibly k61...these are hard to see even in good light)
This code usually indicates the plate-type,
and/or the inner component style/issue.
The getters are dual-supported circles.
There is a circle and a seriffed 'C' (reversed) on the bottom,
which is 'bathroom etched' rough glass (the C is actually raised casted).
The 'Made in Great Britain' lot number (above) is 163.
(this is always a separate screening from the Mullard logo/name)
And yes,the boxes are also real,
and the boxes alone are worth $50 a set (including wrappings),
both to collectors and fraudulent dealers.
The inner long-plates can't be faked, or any other internals.
(If you can do that, you might as well make brand-new Mullards!).
Typical fakes are either Japanese or Chinese (sometimes Russian or Telefunken) which have been 'silkscreened'.
Hi Nazroo, Ive got a couple these, what do you think they are worth?
Convincing fakes can also be detected:
In this picture, you can see full circles especially on left here
(completed on the inside of plate) on the Mazda fakes.
Real Mullards (like the one I'm selling),
only have half-circles. The INNER half of the circular hole in the plate is missing, as it should be.
Also, fake Mullards (i.e., Mazda)
will have double-stitched lines on tube top:
which most people thought was low, and the buyer (bidder)
thought was a bargain.
I wasn't out to gouge anyone or make a lot of money.
I just wanted to pass them on to someone who knew what they were.
k61 would be an ECC82. 261 may not be a valid code.
I have never seen a genuine Mazda with a seam on top. Seams usually mean Philips equipment, but not necessarily in a Philips factory (e.g. Ei Serbia, BEL India, some Matsushita?).
The ladder anode shape was used by lots of makers. Your valve could be genuine, but it is unlikely to have received its external printing in a Mullard factory. Curious, as the external print is the easiest part for fakers to get right. Maybe, inverting the logic, the dodgy-looking print is a sign of genuineness because only a really incompetent faker would do this?
If I had to guess, I would say this one came from BEL as they were often a bit random with marking. For some reason a late valve has ended up in an early box.
In fact, all the early Mulls were 'dodgy' in their silkscreening.
The two 83s I sold were both silkscreened twice:
Once at the factory ("Mullard" , "ECC83" etc.)
white, but diluted almost 2%-milky dull and nearly see-thru.
Once presumably after inspection/sorting
'Made in Great Britain' (etc.)
This was with a brighter/thicker white, and without careful orientation:
On one tube this was on same side as Mullard labelling,
on the other it was the opposite, and was done probably accidentally,
since the silkscreening was where the 'ECC83' should have been,
but that had been wiped off while still wet,
presumably at the factory by a careless silkscreener.
This led the second printer to place his (G.B.) on the wrong side.
I believe there is great variance in the first printings,
because of the year and/or assigned laborer supposed to do it.
I believe the even greater variance in the "Made G.B." printings
is because these were done later after testing, sorting and shipping,
when they may have been done in different locations,
even from the same batches, after they were distributed and warehoused.
This would be because of 'new' regulations on marking origin of product, which was not carried out consistently
(because it wasn't enforced).
Here's a close up of my tube:
The top is clearly the authentic Mullard pattern,
not the overdone crimping of the fakes. (see above, again.)
Also, note the HALF-moon hole in the long-plate,
showing that the tube is both authentic and OLDER stock,
contrary to your assertion above.
Older tube is in older box, because they came together.
For more information on fake Mullards, go here:
A valve made using Philips equipment could be identical internally to one made in a Philips factory, including anode hole shapes. The 'Mazda fake' you show on the left of your picture in post 5 is unlikely to be made by Mazda, as they did not have top seams. It could be that the Mullard markings on it were put there by Mullard - they sometimes bought in valves from elsewhere but still marked them as Made in Britain.
So my conclusion is that your 'genuine' valve may or may not be genuine, and your 'fake' may or may not be fake. I am astonished to hear that someone might be willing to pay $50 for a genuine Mullard box. I am richer than I thought!
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