Not sure where this should be posted im new here...
Im looking for schematics for a old punch 125.2 amp
I think its been previously repaired and i have alot of mixed up parts going on..
Could also use schematics for a 4.6x as well..
numbered like this.. looking at top of board.
power side.....................speaker output side..
1 2 3 4..........................5 6 7 8
.............................................
9 10 11 12.....................13 14 15 16
1 50N06V = 526-NTE2395
2 50NO6V = 526-NTE2395
3 U1620R KAK
4 LM317T = 511-LM317T
5 IRF540-F ?????????
6 IRF540-F ?????????
7 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
8 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
9 50N06V =526-NTE2395
10 50N06V = 526-NTE2395
11 U1620 AKA
12 LM337SP = 511-LM337SP
13 IRF540 = 844-IRF540PBF
14 IRF540 = 844-IRF540PBF
15 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
16 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
Ok so now the confusing part... # 5-6 should be the same part as 13-14 but the 5-6 part has a F on the end.. i know this might sound the same.. but most parts i found that have 1 single different number on the end means a lot... different polarity ect..
Parts 3-11 and not the same.. took me 2 days searching to find a similar part if you notice #3 U1620R KAK and #11 U1620 AKA.. kak and aka are the diode polarity of the chip. do not confuse these as the same thing..
I found these as replacement.. NTE6240 & NTE6244
NTE6240– Positive Center–Tap
NTE6244– Negative Center–Tap
im not sure what one is what #3 or #11 im so confused at this point lolz but i know you need the 2 different parts either way..
#5-6 are IRF540F and #13-14 dont have F on the end.. i think the "F" ones are a few more amps but just looking at data sheets now its only 2 AMP different so probably not an issue to use the same ones..
Does anyone have one of these old punch 125.2 they can pull the bottom cover and tell me what chips are in it..
#4 and #12 i would think should be the same part but in mine they are different..
all of them in series are different then the opposite side, thats why i think this has been worked on before and someone just slapped whatever in it and maybe why its not working now
Im looking for schematics for a old punch 125.2 amp
I think its been previously repaired and i have alot of mixed up parts going on..
Could also use schematics for a 4.6x as well..
numbered like this.. looking at top of board.
power side.....................speaker output side..
1 2 3 4..........................5 6 7 8
.............................................
9 10 11 12.....................13 14 15 16
1 50N06V = 526-NTE2395
2 50NO6V = 526-NTE2395
3 U1620R KAK
4 LM317T = 511-LM317T
5 IRF540-F ?????????
6 IRF540-F ?????????
7 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
8 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
9 50N06V =526-NTE2395
10 50N06V = 526-NTE2395
11 U1620 AKA
12 LM337SP = 511-LM337SP
13 IRF540 = 844-IRF540PBF
14 IRF540 = 844-IRF540PBF
15 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
16 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
Ok so now the confusing part... # 5-6 should be the same part as 13-14 but the 5-6 part has a F on the end.. i know this might sound the same.. but most parts i found that have 1 single different number on the end means a lot... different polarity ect..
Parts 3-11 and not the same.. took me 2 days searching to find a similar part if you notice #3 U1620R KAK and #11 U1620 AKA.. kak and aka are the diode polarity of the chip. do not confuse these as the same thing..
I found these as replacement.. NTE6240 & NTE6244
NTE6240– Positive Center–Tap
NTE6244– Negative Center–Tap
im not sure what one is what #3 or #11 im so confused at this point lolz but i know you need the 2 different parts either way..
#5-6 are IRF540F and #13-14 dont have F on the end.. i think the "F" ones are a few more amps but just looking at data sheets now its only 2 AMP different so probably not an issue to use the same ones..
Does anyone have one of these old punch 125.2 they can pull the bottom cover and tell me what chips are in it..
#4 and #12 i would think should be the same part but in mine they are different..
all of them in series are different then the opposite side, thats why i think this has been worked on before and someone just slapped whatever in it and maybe why its not working now
Pb is the symbol - abbreviation if you prefer - for lead in the world of chemistry. From the Latin word for lead, which was "plumbum." So PB means lead.
If you have not heard of RoHS, look it up. One point of it is to remove lead from everything. Lead-free solder even.
So transistors used to include a little lead in them, if nothing more than the tinned coating on the legs. Is ome places you can;t wsell parts containing lead, so the exact same transistors now come in lead-free versions. Totally interchangable with the old ones. But they have a new part number, so you know which ones you have. Some companies put a G on the end, for "green." Green as in ecologically friendly.
Other companies put the letters "PBF" on the end of the part number, the F meaning free. So, "PBF" simply means "lead-free."
I also see things like LM3886T and LM3886T/NOPB. And the NOPB means "no lead."
A unit made with the older parts will not have a lead-free number. If the unit has been repaired more recently, the new parts will have been the lead free type, and the number will have that change.
That is when you have not just F, but PBF.
There is another use for F. If you look at tab type transistors, many of them have a bare metal back side, which means you have to use insulating layers between them and the heat sinks they live on. Many parts also come in a version completely covered in plastic, so they are insulated. You can bolt these directly to the heatsink without insulation. Not just transistors, but also things like voltage regulators and amp ICs like the LM3886. SOme brands use the F suffix to denote the insulated - or isolated if you like - package. Again, electrically they are the same, just the package changed. So LM3886T has the metal tab, while LM3886TF is the same part with the plastic insulated tab.
Sufixes can and do mean updated performance, higher voltage, or whatever, but also, many suffixes just denote package type.
But since your report showed the PBF, I think it is the first story for yours.
If you have not heard of RoHS, look it up. One point of it is to remove lead from everything. Lead-free solder even.
So transistors used to include a little lead in them, if nothing more than the tinned coating on the legs. Is ome places you can;t wsell parts containing lead, so the exact same transistors now come in lead-free versions. Totally interchangable with the old ones. But they have a new part number, so you know which ones you have. Some companies put a G on the end, for "green." Green as in ecologically friendly.
Other companies put the letters "PBF" on the end of the part number, the F meaning free. So, "PBF" simply means "lead-free."
I also see things like LM3886T and LM3886T/NOPB. And the NOPB means "no lead."
A unit made with the older parts will not have a lead-free number. If the unit has been repaired more recently, the new parts will have been the lead free type, and the number will have that change.
That is when you have not just F, but PBF.
There is another use for F. If you look at tab type transistors, many of them have a bare metal back side, which means you have to use insulating layers between them and the heat sinks they live on. Many parts also come in a version completely covered in plastic, so they are insulated. You can bolt these directly to the heatsink without insulation. Not just transistors, but also things like voltage regulators and amp ICs like the LM3886. SOme brands use the F suffix to denote the insulated - or isolated if you like - package. Again, electrically they are the same, just the package changed. So LM3886T has the metal tab, while LM3886TF is the same part with the plastic insulated tab.
Sufixes can and do mean updated performance, higher voltage, or whatever, but also, many suffixes just denote package type.
But since your report showed the PBF, I think it is the first story for yours.
thanks for the reply. cleared up alot of things..
all the chips in this amp have metal tabs, it uses a pcv board with a layer on it with aluminum backing that gets screwed to the heat sink, im sure a re-flow type machine would be more appropriate to use to remove the chips but i dont have one and they have a ton of solder on them so i placed them on my electric kitchen stove on low heat until i was able to slide the chips off.
Putting them back on will be a different story.
I will need non insulated parts for replacements unless i drill and tap some new holes for screws to hold everything firmly in place.
Only thing that im still confused about is why this amp has so many mixed parts.. i mean both output channels should use the same parts ??? and the power supply fets and transistors should be the same corresponding the opposite side of the board. i dont know if that makes sense LOL. a few amps i have looked inside and the output transistors are the same for each channel 2 of these and 2 of those ect..
the.. 5678 / 13 14 15 15 16 numbers are output side on this amp..
all parts match the opposite side..
On the power supply end of things there is some parts that dont match the other side.
the U1620 and U1620R im pretty sure are correct. and NTE6240 & NTE6244 is a replacement part for those..
But on.. #4 and #12. the LM317T and LM337SP dont have the same similarity as the NTE6240 & NTE6244 to work together like one is reverse to the other.. i have looked at so many data sheets and searching around online i cant remember without pulling it up again what the difference between the LM317T and LM337SP are but i think its just voltage differences.. im not sure the LM337SP should even be there and possibly supposed to have the LM317T is its place same as the other side...
A data sheet or schematics on this amp would be very helpful or if someone else has the same amp to open it up and have a look and post what the chips are in it. just to match things up.
all the chips in this amp have metal tabs, it uses a pcv board with a layer on it with aluminum backing that gets screwed to the heat sink, im sure a re-flow type machine would be more appropriate to use to remove the chips but i dont have one and they have a ton of solder on them so i placed them on my electric kitchen stove on low heat until i was able to slide the chips off.
Putting them back on will be a different story.
I will need non insulated parts for replacements unless i drill and tap some new holes for screws to hold everything firmly in place.
Only thing that im still confused about is why this amp has so many mixed parts.. i mean both output channels should use the same parts ??? and the power supply fets and transistors should be the same corresponding the opposite side of the board. i dont know if that makes sense LOL. a few amps i have looked inside and the output transistors are the same for each channel 2 of these and 2 of those ect..
the.. 5678 / 13 14 15 15 16 numbers are output side on this amp..
all parts match the opposite side..
On the power supply end of things there is some parts that dont match the other side.
the U1620 and U1620R im pretty sure are correct. and NTE6240 & NTE6244 is a replacement part for those..
But on.. #4 and #12. the LM317T and LM337SP dont have the same similarity as the NTE6240 & NTE6244 to work together like one is reverse to the other.. i have looked at so many data sheets and searching around online i cant remember without pulling it up again what the difference between the LM317T and LM337SP are but i think its just voltage differences.. im not sure the LM337SP should even be there and possibly supposed to have the LM317T is its place same as the other side...
A data sheet or schematics on this amp would be very helpful or if someone else has the same amp to open it up and have a look and post what the chips are in it. just to match things up.
it wont let me post it.. so i put spaces in the web address and i thought it went up...
Its from Rockford, i sent them a message asking for the schematics they gave me some weird link to it.
its a pdf file of some sort i cant seem to save it. going to look through browser history and see if i can find it and save it.
Oh i see now.. i tryed to use different browser to open it and wont let me... link has to be clicked from within my account..
Its from Rockford, i sent them a message asking for the schematics they gave me some weird link to it.
its a pdf file of some sort i cant seem to save it. going to look through browser history and see if i can find it and save it.
Oh i see now.. i tryed to use different browser to open it and wont let me... link has to be clicked from within my account..
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Essentially the same as this model 160.2
Schematic;
https://sites.google.com/site/brandescm/home/projects/160a2)schematic.PDF?attredirects=0&d=1
MTP50N06 cross with Fairchild Semiconductor FQP50N06, you may have to change the gate resistor. The IRF9540 and IRF540's are available
from any supplier.
You may want this moved to caraudio section.
Schematic;
https://sites.google.com/site/brandescm/home/projects/160a2)schematic.PDF?attredirects=0&d=1
MTP50N06 cross with Fairchild Semiconductor FQP50N06, you may have to change the gate resistor. The IRF9540 and IRF540's are available
from any supplier.
You may want this moved to caraudio section.
Last edited:
Its the MTP50N06V in this amp.. and those i cant find anymore.. a NTE2395 is the same, someone mentioned that NTE isnt a very good brand to buy though. the IRF540/9540 i found also.
What is the gate resistor ?.. and right beside each of the output transistors are round resistors that are in a standing position are those the Gate resistors ?..
I have another rockford amp i want to repair as well a 4.6x that i had used for a few years, the board is a little black were one or 2 of the power supply transistors blew i dont think there is any damage though, hopefully it didnt burn the board where the connections are.. in that case what do you do then? throw it out? lol. solder a wire from the board to the pin on the transistor ?
I have a friends kenwood amp here, has 2 blown output transistors i have tested all the others and the are the exact same ohms as the opposite side of the board so i dont want to replace more then i have to, 1 channel is working fine.
Little more info on what the Gate resistor is would be helpful.
Sorry im a knob.. and honestly i have never attempted to repair an amp before in my life until 2 weeks ago. and that was a older pioneer with blown power supply chips.
I got looking on google and hours and days of searching to learn a few tips about what generally fails and what might be the problem.. once i learn something it sticks pretty good, im determined to learn more.
There are always free or good deal amps out there none working or with problems and generally they are simple to repair, its harder to find parts then to do the actual repairs.
I cant wait to bring these rockfords back to life, a friend of mine found a old punch 75 in his shed too i want to check out. it might even work who knows, i remember 15 years ago when we were tanagers we would have a punch 50 and punch 100 pounding 4 12's and setting off alarms in stores and cars driving up the street.
I have always had a system in my vehicle but always just what ever i could get for cheap, i kinda forgot over the years just how well the old rockford amps work and im in a faze i want to bring some back to life and run them in my system.
This amp uses 4 MTP50N06V's I have one of these that also needs repair. I'd suggest replacing the 50N06V's with IRF3205 that is available at most electronic parts suppliers. Then check then replace the surface mount gate resistors to 47 ohms if your using the 3205's. But first thing first make sure the driver circuit is working first. Clip the leads from the shorted power supply fets then get your volt meter place the negative probe on the ground and the positive probe on the gate pad of each FET. You should get something like 5.86vDC~ on each gate pad. Hope this helped.
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