the TSUP series (snap mount) from Panasonic is widely available and at the 500DVC range.
That's about it for electrolytics and snap mount. There are several 'off brands'..but trusting those at 500VDC is not wise IMO and IME.
Illinois capacitor also made quite a few 500VDC electrolytics as did Sprauge. Your problem is the snap-mount aspect when it comes to finding higher voltages.
That's about it for electrolytics and snap mount. There are several 'off brands'..but trusting those at 500VDC is not wise IMO and IME.
Illinois capacitor also made quite a few 500VDC electrolytics as did Sprauge. Your problem is the snap-mount aspect when it comes to finding higher voltages.
At one time they were available.
Today I just do like Tom and connect a pair of 400V or 450V rated parts in series, and use a balance resistor for each. You should allow 30% margin between your working voltage and the sum of the series rated voltages.
However, if you are really determined, I can relay some advice from a high quality manufacturer:
In 2002 I complained to BHC [now part of KEMET] about the disappearance of their excellent 600V rated ALC10 series parts. The ALx series electrolytics are expensive, but sound very good (YM may well V)
The apps engineer called me back about the query, and then suggested that the 500V rated parts could cope with my request. This is their modelled performance data:
Part: ALC10A681EL500
680uF 500V
Working voltage: 540V
Ripple current 200mA
Working Temperature: 40 deg C
Lifetime > 5000hours.
This does not apply to any other parts, and please note that the ripple current is a small portion of the 500V ripple handling capability. But it can be done, in desperation.
I repeat that this is not recommended activity!
But 500V is no problem at all, provided you can afford the ALC10s. Within ratings, they are a very good choice for audio.
Today I just do like Tom and connect a pair of 400V or 450V rated parts in series, and use a balance resistor for each. You should allow 30% margin between your working voltage and the sum of the series rated voltages.
However, if you are really determined, I can relay some advice from a high quality manufacturer:
In 2002 I complained to BHC [now part of KEMET] about the disappearance of their excellent 600V rated ALC10 series parts. The ALx series electrolytics are expensive, but sound very good (YM may well V)
The apps engineer called me back about the query, and then suggested that the 500V rated parts could cope with my request. This is their modelled performance data:
Part: ALC10A681EL500
680uF 500V
Working voltage: 540V
Ripple current 200mA
Working Temperature: 40 deg C
Lifetime > 5000hours.
This does not apply to any other parts, and please note that the ripple current is a small portion of the 500V ripple handling capability. But it can be done, in desperation.
I repeat that this is not recommended activity!
But 500V is no problem at all, provided you can afford the ALC10s. Within ratings, they are a very good choice for audio.
Old problem; Farnell has some 500V types.
The pain is inavoidable when having to series parallel elco's above 450/500V B+.......I do it quite commonly for 600V. No other solution but it takes up valuable space and doubles cost.
Design tube amps using parallel push pull pairs for around 450V when using 500V rated caps, then it's easy to get 100W from a tube amp. 500V caps often come with screw terminals, i.e Farnell 1679534 which I use.
richy
Panasonic has the 500V electo's snap ins at a pri$e. I used 47u for the first cap and a 470u for the cap after the choke. For the KEG-EAR PCB I stacked the caps to use the large 450v caps that I had a stash of. I can push 800V for B+ before I need to be concerned about the caps, board spacing also should be good for 800V. Currently quite happy at 450V with an initial voltage of close to 490 volts prior to the output tubes being fully on line.
The blue caps are the 500V Panasonics, all caps get mounted on the back side of the PCB, just checking parts count for missing stuff to order...
The blue caps are the 500V Panasonics, all caps get mounted on the back side of the PCB, just checking parts count for missing stuff to order...
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