Caps - Mundorf Silver/oil vs silver/gold/oil

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Can anyone tell me what the differences in sound quality are between the Mundorf silver in oil and the silver/gold in oil (besides nearly twice the price)? I'm looking for an ideal (if there is such a thing) coupling cap for my preamp.

thanks,

John
 
Mundorf silver in oil
I find it superb. But a little restrained and bereft of natural color in the mids (if that means anything to you). Hence I've gone for Jupiter which has a more lively tone.

This as a tweeter cap. But I've heard from others that it the same in say a preamp.

The added gold in the Mundor silver in oil apparently also has a fuller midrange than just the silver.
 
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I find it superb. But a little restrained and bereft of natural color in the mids (if that means anything to you). Hence I've gone for Jupiter which has a more lively tone.

This as a tweeter cap. But I've heard from others that it the same in say a preamp.

The added gold in the Mundor silver in oil apparently also has a fuller midrange than just the silver.

Just curious,

Which Jupiter cap have you used?

Regards
M. Gregg
 
I use a Duelund CAST 1.0uF 630V cap as the parafeed cap in my preamp. In my opinion, if you are going to spend that kind of money for a cap, that is the place to put it, as the entire signal goes through it. I'd need 9 Duelunds per channel to use them on my speakers (and the values would be MUCH greater, as would the COST!) but only one small one per channel for the preamp. I have compared them to Auricap, Mundorf Supreme and Mundorf Silver/oil and found the Duelund to be better in all regards.

I know, I'm crazy spending that much for a cap, but it makes me happy!
 
The Duelund cast caps come highly recommended, in one review, over the Mundorf silver/gold in oil; however, they are crazy money, too much for my application!

My preamp runs in the 50 to 60c range (about 130f). I looked up the specs on the German site and there's no mention of operating temperature range. Is this something to be concerned about?
 
The Duelund cast caps come highly recommended, in one review, over the Mundorf silver/gold in oil; however, they are crazy money, too much for my application!

My preamp runs in the 50 to 60c range (about 130f). I looked up the specs on the German site and there's no mention of operating temperature range. Is this something to be concerned about?

Yes, in Mundorf web say nothing about, this was the reason because a few years ago I bought "silver in oil" for replace the capacitors on two integrated amps, but on both cases the capacitors died.

I talked about with a Mundorf representative and said me that these capacitors don't be made for work on hot places, in a hot place the oil degrades the silver foil (loss the value), the Supremes don't have this problem

Now I'm using Silver in Oil on a Pass B1 (not heat there), because I love the sound as well I use it on my speaker filters.

Cheers
 
Use a Vcap or Relcap teflon. I think they are superior to the Mundorfs. You may disagree but I have been using teflons for almost 20 years and have yet to see a component that could not be improved by their use. Be foreward that they take FOREVER to break in due to the tightness of the winding.. Regards John Dozier
 
Yes, in Mundorf web say nothing about, this was the reason because a few years ago I bought "silver in oil" for replace the capacitors on two integrated amps, but on both cases the capacitors died.

I talked about with a Mundorf representative and said me that these capacitors don't be made for work on hot places, in a hot place the oil degrades the silver foil (loss the value), the Supremes don't have this problem

Now I'm using Silver in Oil on a Pass B1 (not heat there), because I love the sound as well I use it on my speaker filters.

Cheers

Bloody daft....

So, the above statement 'in a hot place the oil degrades the silver foil (loss the value.....'

Implies a Chemical Reaction.....Hastened by Heat....:eek:

So--They are gonna fail ANYWAY!--Time depending on temperature....

So, WHY do they sell em, if they KNOW they are gonna go faulty???

--No Proper, Mainstream Capacitor Maker would Ever do this....

And, SO many of these 'boutique' audio-fool caps look like they were made in someone's shed-(Maybe they were...?)-some of the more pretensious ones have hand-written markings--Just utter rubbish IMHO!.....

You dont go to a barbers to buy eggs....

An (Audio) Fool and his Money is soon parted!:cool:

Get Caps from a Proper mainstream Capacitor Maker, choose its type and value according to its appication!

--At least then its value for money, will sound good, and will LAST:D
 
Bloody daft....

So, the above statement 'in a hot place the oil degrades the silver foil (loss the value.....'

Implies a Chemical Reaction.....Hastened by Heat....:eek:

So--They are gonna fail ANYWAY!--Time depending on temperature....

So, WHY do they sell em, if they KNOW they are gonna go faulty???

Maybe will be a chemical reaction, but in the right place these capacitors will work thousands of hours. The electrolytics don't have a long lasting as well (or the tubes), some weeks ago I changed the copper capacitor on an Audio Note Quest, this capacitor failed and destroyed all the filament circuit.

And, SO many of these 'boutique' audio-fool caps look like they were made in someone's shed-(Maybe they were...?)-some of the more pretensious ones have hand-written markings--Just utter rubbish IMHO!.....

Sounds very very good, try it

Get Caps from a Proper mainstream Capacitor Maker, choose its type and value according to its appication!
--At least then its value for money, will sound good, and will LAST:D

But is not the same, I prefer it over Wima or SRC.

Cheers
 
If someone found out that lead was the best metal to make components from, you can bet your life that some audiophool would claim that they made the sound heavy and slow, if they knew in advance what they were listening to.

Of course they sound better than Wima or SRC. You've just remortgaged your house to pay for one !!


Andy

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