This may be slightly off topic*, but I have this sub and a 10Ah 40v battery that I'd like to use with it. I connect the battery, appropriately, to the leads going into the board, bypassing the rectifier. But the center-tapped lead (in between +20 / -20) I have no idea how to replicate, I'm not that knowledgeable about electronics. I'm getting (safe and happy) power to the unit, but it's not behaving as if it is connected to the AC, as usual with the center-tapped voltage and there is no sound. My guess is the control circuit is not powered, but most importantly:
What would be the way that i could replicate the center tap at 20V? My guess is some kind of resistor between Ground -- Resistor - CenterTap - Resistor - Positive40VDC . But its only a guess and I have no idea what the value of the resistor or if that is appropriate at all. Can anybody help? What's a good approach here?
(As mentioned earlier, the voltage comes from a +20 / -20 torodial transformer in the unit that i want to bypass it and run the unit with 40VDC)
*I'm posting here because of the rich back-history of specs, etc relating to the power on this subwoofer
What would be the way that i could replicate the center tap at 20V? My guess is some kind of resistor between Ground -- Resistor - CenterTap - Resistor - Positive40VDC . But its only a guess and I have no idea what the value of the resistor or if that is appropriate at all. Can anybody help? What's a good approach here?
(As mentioned earlier, the voltage comes from a +20 / -20 torodial transformer in the unit that i want to bypass it and run the unit with 40VDC)
*I'm posting here because of the rich back-history of specs, etc relating to the power on this subwoofer
Hello to all, I have a Z-2300 subwoofer and I can hear a very low level sound of music in satellites. The subwoofer has only a small sound(like a beep) when I power on, else is mute. I measured the voltages from the toroidal transformer and are ok(20AC and 40AC). Also at remote command I changed 2 resistors R104 and R107, but I've got no changes, nor at subwoofer,neither at satellites) Does anyone know how to solve this problem?
Z-2200 Amp Using Only
Hi, since the thread is a little old, i just wanted to tried it anyway
. I got a Logitech, literally a few Z-2200 Boards cause i bought them cheap for the speaker chassis...and now they laying around unused. So i came up with idea of just using them with my mini dsp's for a cheap three channel plate amp. Prob is that there s a built in x-over stage what is filtering the signal for the sub and the small sats and this fixed x-over is the cra*.
So the million dollar question is, and hopefully someone is into electronics more than me to explain me how..., how to bypass these "x-over" stage an get a line signal...for instance from an mini dsp board directliy on the amps....
There are still plenty of these systems out there an the dsp s got cheap over the years, and still there s no affordable 2.1 channel plate amp out there with an good x-over possibility.
May this could be in a nice diy solution for many people who are tired of the proprietary industry stuff.
Who be glad if someone could help me out...!
Swany.
P.s.:If pictures from the board or something needed, just say the word!
Hi, since the thread is a little old, i just wanted to tried it anyway
. I got a Logitech, literally a few Z-2200 Boards cause i bought them cheap for the speaker chassis...and now they laying around unused. So i came up with idea of just using them with my mini dsp's for a cheap three channel plate amp. Prob is that there s a built in x-over stage what is filtering the signal for the sub and the small sats and this fixed x-over is the cra*. So the million dollar question is, and hopefully someone is into electronics more than me to explain me how..., how to bypass these "x-over" stage an get a line signal...for instance from an mini dsp board directliy on the amps...
.There are still plenty of these systems out there an the dsp s got cheap over the years, and still there s no affordable 2.1 channel plate amp out there with an good x-over possibility.
May this could be in a nice diy solution for many people who are tired of the proprietary industry stuff.
Who be glad if someone could help me out...!
Swany.
P.s.:If pictures from the board or something needed, just say the word!
Hello guys. I want to power the z2300 with dc power but the 2x26.4V I have to feed the system after the rectifier is quite perplexing to me. Can someone tell me how can one or two DC adapter(s) handle this situation? Hello guys. I want to power the z2300 with dc power but the 2x26.4V I have to feed the system after the rectifier is quite perplexing to me. Can someone tell me how can one or two DC adapter(s) handle this situation?
Hello guys. I want to power the z2300 with dc power but the 2x26.4V I have to feed the system after the rectifier is quite perplexing to me. Can someone tell me how can one or two DC adapter(s) handle this situation?
Hello guys. I want to power the z2300 with dc power but the 2x26.4V I have to feed the system after the rectifier is quite perplexing to me. Can someone tell me how can one or two DC adapter(s) handle this situation?
---26.4V+
1 ST PSU
---26.4V - Center tap (Connect together)
---26.4V+ Center tap (Connect together)
2ND PSU
---26.4V-
If You have SMPS's with negative connected to the case it must be floating or it will short the other PSU when attached to a metallic chassis. The same happens if it has a PE wire connected to the chassis. Leave the PE wire connected to the chassis, but break the connection to the - terminal.
1 ST PSU
---26.4V - Center tap (Connect together)
---26.4V+ Center tap (Connect together)
2ND PSU
---26.4V-
If You have SMPS's with negative connected to the case it must be floating or it will short the other PSU when attached to a metallic chassis. The same happens if it has a PE wire connected to the chassis. Leave the PE wire connected to the chassis, but break the connection to the - terminal.
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