Cut the diode off, leaving a little bit of lead. Heat the remaining lead, using some new solder. When the lead is good and hot and starts to move around (indicating the solder on both sides is melted) gently smack the board on a table top / bench top. The lead should fly right out.
So, the board is double sided, but not plated through? That is odd. If it is plated through, you should only have to heat one side. I use a dental pick to gently pry on the component while heating the lead. The lead will pop off the board when it is hot enough. The easiest way is to just clip the component off and remove the piece of component lead.
So, the board is double sided, but not plated through? That is odd. If it is plated through, you should only have to heat one side. I use a dental pick to gently pry on the component while heating the lead. The lead will pop off the board when it is hot enough. The easiest way is to just clip the component off and remove the piece of component lead.
I'll do it tomorrow.
If it's OK to ruin the part you want to remove I think nobody special's solution is the best. I practice it often at work. After removal I suck the hole clean with a desoldering station. It's hard to suck the hole totally clean and not damage the hole plating, therefore it's often better to warm the solder joint and then suck it clean.
There are two sorts of qualities of solder wick. Both suck. One of them in a desirable manner. You need the stuff with really fine copper (lots of strands), and it needs to be kept clean.
Multilayer boards are tricky. I carefully snip wires flush and use a dental pick-type implement (Cooper tools) to prod the wire remnant out whilst heating it.
The fact of the matter is that recent PCBs are not made to be maintained...
Multilayer boards are tricky. I carefully snip wires flush and use a dental pick-type implement (Cooper tools) to prod the wire remnant out whilst heating it.
The fact of the matter is that recent PCBs are not made to be maintained...
The double sided component removal can be done using a desoldering pump.
Heat the solder on the component side till the solder side solder melts. The pcb should be in component upwards position. As soon as the solder side solder has melted, operate the desoldering pump in the upside down position taking advantage of the gravity.
After this you may find slight amount of solder still holding the component lead.
Do the following only if the hole is cleared and only a small amount of solder is holding at one point.
Keep the soldering iron aside. Using a small nose plier, bend the end point of the lead over the holding solder point and straighten it. This will break loose the lead from the solder. Try whether the lead is really free and then take out the component by freeing all the leads. This trick works even with the ICs.
Phadte
Heat the solder on the component side till the solder side solder melts. The pcb should be in component upwards position. As soon as the solder side solder has melted, operate the desoldering pump in the upside down position taking advantage of the gravity.
After this you may find slight amount of solder still holding the component lead.
Do the following only if the hole is cleared and only a small amount of solder is holding at one point.
Keep the soldering iron aside. Using a small nose plier, bend the end point of the lead over the holding solder point and straighten it. This will break loose the lead from the solder. Try whether the lead is really free and then take out the component by freeing all the leads. This trick works even with the ICs.
Phadte
Hi,
There is a wide difference in quality of PCB's depending on the copper weight, adhesion and insulation material.
There are some that seem to put up with near infinite punishment, while others shed copper tracks at the touch of an iron.
With specific regard to medium current diodes such as 1N400X, the lead is quite thick, to act as a heat conductor. With curvature, this often makes them stiff in plate-thru holes. If they don't pull easily, I would leave the lead in the board, and solder the new component to that.
Cheers,
There is a wide difference in quality of PCB's depending on the copper weight, adhesion and insulation material.
There are some that seem to put up with near infinite punishment, while others shed copper tracks at the touch of an iron.
With specific regard to medium current diodes such as 1N400X, the lead is quite thick, to act as a heat conductor. With curvature, this often makes them stiff in plate-thru holes. If they don't pull easily, I would leave the lead in the board, and solder the new component to that.
Cheers,
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