I inherited my brother's 1060. It all seems to work fine except the power switch does not stay depressed. I removed it and tried to bend the thin metal cam arm thingy into a shape that would work, but it quickly stopped working again after I buttoned everything up. Anybody know where I can buy a replacement switch?
Thanks for the reply! Here are 3 shots of it. The embossed printing on the top says:
461W
TV-3
ESB-1150DS
The label on the side says:
Matsushita
Snap-Switch Issue No. 1-545
The distance between the 2 threaded holes is 29/32", and the distance between the outside of the 2 mounting ears (that contain the threaded holes) is 1.25". If that helps give you some idea of its size.
461W
TV-3
ESB-1150DS
The label on the side says:
Matsushita
Snap-Switch Issue No. 1-545
The distance between the 2 threaded holes is 29/32", and the distance between the outside of the 2 mounting ears (that contain the threaded holes) is 1.25". If that helps give you some idea of its size.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That black gummy stuff is some type of adhesive that holds the cylindrical button onto the shaft. And I did spray the internals with WD-40 to see if that helped (my can of tuner shower was empty, which doesn't surprise me since it's probably 25 years old
). The problem is that thing piece of metal that rides in a slot. It's bent out of shape or something is worn, and kind of a bad design in the first place. I tried bending the protruding end to help it work again, but that didn't last. My local hi-fi store guy says this was a common problem with these switches. So somebody's gotta have a supply of them, or a decent replacement.
I believe that switch is the same one used for the power on function in Marantz 2230/2245/2270 receivers of the same era - I think your amp is the same as a 2230 without the tuner section. This is a common failure part & the failure mechanism is as you experienced - no latch. I replaced the switch in my 2230 many years ago. They are widely available - about 10 on ebay for $25 buy it now pricing. Good luck!
I believe that switch is the same one used for the power on function in Marantz 2230/2245/2270 receivers of the same era - I think your amp is the same as a 2230 without the tuner section. This is a common failure part & the failure mechanism is as you experienced - no latch. I replaced the switch in my 2230 many years ago. They are widely available - about 10 on ebay for $25 buy it now pricing. Good luck!
25 bucks is a ripoff
You can buy a switch from Digikey that will fit that unit
for less than 5 bucks and it will be better than the original.
Perhaps, but after trying for several minutes to figure out what search criteria might find the switch I need, I gave up. It also doesn't help that a lot of the products didn't have a photo. Nothing matched keyword "marantz", whereas the ebay search did.
glen65,
I wholeheartedly agree with your pricing observation...the practical issue is how much time you are willing to spend researching the details of the part against items on Digikey, etc and what is the risk that the part you end up with will not fit perfectly. If your time is worth nothing and you don't mind a round or two of redo you can spend less cash. When it comes to parts like this one I will usually pony up in the interest of time saved and fixed the first time.
I wholeheartedly agree with your pricing observation...the practical issue is how much time you are willing to spend researching the details of the part against items on Digikey, etc and what is the risk that the part you end up with will not fit perfectly. If your time is worth nothing and you don't mind a round or two of redo you can spend less cash. When it comes to parts like this one I will usually pony up in the interest of time saved and fixed the first time.
That black gummy stuff is some type of adhesive that holds the cylindrical button onto the shaft. And I did spray the internals with WD-40 to see if that helped (my can of tuner shower was empty, which doesn't surprise me since it's probably 25 years old
Don't use WD-40 in electronics - or mechanics for that matter. It's bad stuff and merely prolongs the pain. You _still_ have to open it up and repair it properly but now you _also_ have to clean out the slime.
G²
I've found something on e-bay, In case I can write the full address here...
I've the same problem with my 1060. Still sounds fine, original, perfect except for this power switch which is sparking arcs all around.....
Unfortunately this seller on e-bay doesn't deliver to Italy
Did you find this power switch somewhere else?
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