Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Parts
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Parts Where to get, and how to make the best bits. PCB's, caps, transformers, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th August 2010, 10:24 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Default How can i know if a cap is fake?

Im looking at some ELNA caps in eBay and the price difference for the same
brand and model can go from $4 to $35.

What do you guys think?
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th August 2010, 02:41 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
indianajo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jeffersonville, Indiana USA
Caps can be surplus because the military contract was cancelled, or the model didn't sell or something. Electrolytic caps as surplus are usually outdated, half way or all the way to being dried up, and definitely not worth buying unless manufactured less than 5 years ago. 500 hour electrolytic caps or unrated hours electrolytic caps are not worth buying even if new, in my opinion, life is too short. Many of my R**** S***** grab bag caps from the 1960's are mismarked, according to my audio quasi-sine oscillator experiment. Cap marking is pretty hit and miss these days anyway, if you don't have a maufacturers datasheet the meaning of the letters "m" and "n" vary a lot between continents, cultures, and decade of manufacture. At least your "Elna" are allegedly labeled. I like buying from newark.com or farnell.com (outside US), the shipping is $5, the delivery is two days, and there is a sticker on the bag telling you what you bought in real uf, nf, or pf, however stupidly the part itself is marked. Expected life, design temperature, and voltage are clearly labeled on the bag sticker. Some of the J******** caps I just bought were stupidly marked, in my opinion. Quality caps, though, sound good in the PAS2. I tend to keep things for decades, as you can tell, I've just used metal film military surplus resistors from grab bags I put away 35 years ago in the PAS2 and the H182 rebuilds.
__________________
Dynakit ST70, ST120, PAS2,Hammond H182(2 ea),H112,A100,10-82TC,Peavey CS800S,SP2-XT's, T-300 HF Projs, Steinway console, Herald RA88a mixer, Wurlitzer 4500

Last edited by indianajo; 11th August 2010 at 02:48 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th August 2010, 02:59 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Thanks alot!
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Polar electro with bypass cap to replace nonpolar as coupling cap? at77 Parts 0 12th January 2010 02:05 AM
Low-ESR cap -vs- Normal cap with sunbberized. nina Chip Amps 11 11th September 2005 07:20 PM
Can a X2 cap be used in place of a snubber cap? w00t Parts 6 26th February 2004 02:50 PM
.22uf cap in place of .25uf coupling cap, OK? bbaker6212 Tubes / Valves 5 15th July 2002 09:08 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:56 PM.

Page generated in 0.06591 seconds (68.86% PHP - 31.14% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio