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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Hey guys, I would like to get your recommendations for, of all things, hookup wire!
BTW, I saw a table saying that 20 AWG copper wire has a resistance of 10.4 Ohms per 1000 ft. Is that a standard for any copper wire or are there higher quality copper wire with lower resistance than that? Thanks in advance for any help! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Use thicker wire for less resistance.
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"Fully on MOSFET = closed switch, Fully off MOSFET = open switch, Half on MOSFET = poor imitation of Tiffany Yep." - also applies to IGBTs! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Resistance is a function of the gauge and it is a constant for copper of common purity levels, silver plated wire will not affect that significantly.
Better to spend your money on irradiated pvc or teflon insulated wire. I prefer stranded, but many prefer solid. If you really need lower resistance (and I am betting you don't -do the math) then you need to use a larger gauge wire. I could make some crack about superconducting wire, but won't.. What sort of signal is it that a short conductor's resistance is a big concern?
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www.kta-hifi.net Last edited by kevinkr; 14th June 2010 at 05:14 AM. |
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#4 |
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Banned
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you need snake oil.! I heard some where in china on ebay sells it. It's a must!
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Quote:
so I want very low resistance wire. I understand that the wire needs to be thick to have lower resistance, but I have determined that I can only use up to 20 AWG wire due to the connectors on the DIP switch being so small and close to each other. I would not be able to solder any larger wires on them.In summary, I need the wire to be very low resistance as far as 20 AWG could be, in order to minimize the signal degradation when using the switch compared to using the jumpers directly. Of course, the quality of the switch is another issue, but let's take things one at a time. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver, Colorado
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What if you mounted a relay switch inside the cabinet? Then you could control it from outside, and the long wires would not carry signal and you wouldn't have to worry about it.
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Quote:
There are six jumpers, JP1 to JP6. They are all on one row. The input pot mode is set by turning on JP1 and JP4. The trim pot mode is set by turning on JP2 and JP5. The fixed -15 dBFS reference mode is set by turning on JP3 and JP6. Thus, each of the three modes is set by turning on a pair of jumpers. I have already bought a 3-position DPST switch. Will I be using this in conjunction with the relay? On the other hand, I haven't totally given up on the "wires" solution, so other posters please keep your recommendations coming on that. Thanks again! |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver, Colorado
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Quote:
A simple google search for "relay switching for amplifier source selector" led me to this without looking past the first few sites. A finer tuned search or deeper look into this one may yield better results. Simple yet versatile relay-controlled A/B switch box Good luck! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Of all the things to worry about, the resistance of copper wire at low current levels is right up there with whether cosmic rays are messing up my vintage 78 collection.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver, Colorado
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I don't know, I am sort of with him on this. What he is trying to do is tap off the internal jumpers and wire to an external switch. Maybe there will be noise pick up or something. I wouldn't worry much about the resistance, more that the signal wires may become little antennas and so a relay switch would keep the signal path short and inside the cabinet.
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