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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Boston, MA
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Hello all.
I'm trying to fix a set of EV SP-1502 speakers. When they were given to me I was told the drivers were blown. When I hooked them up, one speaker did nothing and the other distorted badly and output seemed very erratic. I opened them up and directly connected the speakers individually to the power amp and found the speakers sounded fine, which led me to believe something is blown in the crossover. The two components in the second picture are the ones i'm hard up to identify. I originally thought they were capacitors, but the labeling and placement makes me think they're resistors. Can anybody clarify for me? I know the big grey block is a 20watt 50ohm resistor, the copper coil is an inductor, and the big white doohickey is an 8ohm potentiometer for high frequency attenuation. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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To add to it....
The K on both is 10% and are made by Tecate Industries in Mexico Steve @ Apex Jr. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Boston, MA
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Thanks guys!
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Boston, MA
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So I think I found replacement parts for these, but I had a question.
I found 5uf 100v and 2.7uf 100v polyester film caps. I know having a higher voltage rating is ok, but will the lower capacitance of the second cap affect the crossover slope drastically? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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The voltage rating is the same, 100V. As for 2.7uF vs 2.84 uF, given that the originals were 10% tolerance, if the 2.7's are close to nominal then they should be well within 10% of the original 2.84. If you can get 2.7's that are 5% or better you are golden!
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Boston, MA
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Oops I spaced- I meant the 5uf is 350v. But thanks for the clarification!
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Montreal
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Caps like that are usually fairly reliable, so I'd check the other components too if I were you... in particular the pot to see if it is intermittent. If it is, try to find a classic sealed wirewound model with double wiper, these are practically indestructible. I can imagine these speakers were dramatically overdriven for the crossover circuit to fail like that. Looking forward to know if your replacement caps solved the problem!
![]() - Robert PS: I do have a bunch of those 8 ohm wirewound pots if you need to replace 'em. Last edited by ArthurDent; 20th May 2010 at 12:20 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: California
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aevek, mind if I post some unidentified electrical objects on here? I have an idea, actually. Why doesn't this topic get stickied so anyone who finds things they can't identify can post them all in one thread? It'd help keep the forum cleaner and give good visibility.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Boston, MA
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I don't mind Llamaboy. Sounds like a good idea to me.
And thanks Robert, I'll keep that in mind. However, I tested the pot and it seems fine. in fact, I pulled both caps and tested them, and they seemed fine as well. I'm kinda stumped, so i opted to just replace the whole shebang. Only thing now is that the 5uF cap terminals aren't labeled. I really don't wanna put it in there backwards. Any ideas? |
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