Filling up the free M&K enclosures

[mikeford]

I'm looking for suggestions on filling up the free empty enclosures from the M&K liquidation. Specifically drivers and crossovers for;

350 dual 12" push pull box.

S150 fancy 3 tweeter 2 woofer monitor, especially interested in if the crossover is even known for this one.

[planet10]

How big are they? Pictures?

dave

[mikeford]

Here are some images, may take me some time to measure inside vol etc. (please pardon the grabbing of first images that came up in google).

Left side of first pict is the top, amp plate goes there, forward facing driver in the middle, and face up driver in the bottom space (sharing the volume of the middle chamber).

[badman]

I'll be working on a jig to allow the creative sound trio 12 to fit the 12" sub boxes, and possibly organizing a group buy. Email me if you're interested. I'm looking at getting the trios and some plate amps.

[mikeford]

Why the Creative?

Why not the Lab12 or a good pro sound, or a gasp, cheap good driver (like Deepsurplus has for $42)?

[von.ah]

*flame suit on*
I really think those sub cabinets have Econowave written all over them... What are the rectangular cutout dimensions?

[badman]

Originally Posted by mikeford

Why the Creative?

Why not the Lab12 or a good pro sound, or a gasp, cheap good driver (like Deepsurplus has for $42)?

I've worked with CSS drivers for a few projects and always been very impressed with them. The Trio12 models to max flat sealed in the app. 2 cu ft. available in the larger cabs, which is naturally a big plus. It also will run with the 250/350W amps without running out of Xmax, until the low teens. I envision them as being a supersub in a small box.

Since one will have to enlarge the hole for almost any driver (besides the ones sold by deep surplus), I figure the effort would be best served for a higher quality driver over one that's "just enough".

But, that's just me, certainly $42 is a very fair price.

[mikeford]

I have a hard time thinking of 2x 12" in a sealed box as a real producer of sound below 20 hz, so I was planning on using the ApexJr smaller M&K amp panel which should have no issues even with the $42 speakers.

OTOH all the speaker holes are nice metal fittings, so it should be easy to try different drivers or switch to a different driver later on.

I'm just kind of anxious to make some noise sooner rather than later.

[badman]

Originally Posted by mikeford

I have a hard time thinking of 2x 12" in a sealed box as a real producer of sound below 20 hz, so I was planning on using the ApexJr smaller M&K amp panel which should have no issues even with the $42 speakers.

OTOH all the speaker holes are nice metal fittings, so it should be easy to try different drivers or switch to a different driver later on.

I'm just kind of anxious to make some noise sooner rather than later.

2x12" is equivalent to an 18" for displacement.... just how loud do we want to go here?

Anyway, I have been fiddling with the best way to shoehorn larger driver frames into the undersized cutouts (present on the cherry 2 cu ft. cabs, and the 2x12" cabs). One can:

Make a router jig
Use a drum sander
Find a midget-frame woofer

I'll try the drum sander soon, picked one up today. The smaller framed woofers, well, per Parts Express, some of the goldwoods have a 12" frame 11" cutout like the smaller box holes. Unfortunately, sealed box size for what seems the best match to me is 8 ft^3. One could, however, toss an isobaric pair into the 2x12" box, with some care and finagling. Firing into the manifold (which I would line with absorbtion for further low pass filtering) could work exceedingly well, having lots of built-in low pass filtering (can you say: distortion filter?)

[boywonder]

How big is the cutout on the cherry cabs? The cutout on the maple cabinets is 12 1/4".

Badman: I'm totally set up for making a router template to enlarge the holes if you need one. I've got several routers, collar set, two circle guides, bearing bits, table saw, etc, etc. Fixture alignment could be the headlock sockets on the cabinets.

Thinking somewhat outside of the box for a minute........One could bolt a number of these together back to back and front to front to make a large volume cabinet. Of course, the drivers would be either pointing at the floor, the ceiling, or both if the resulting cabinet is positioned vertically. This could be done without molesting the cabinets by popping out the T-nuts in alternating cabinets and screwing the cabinets together with thin weather stripping between them.

I snagged 15 of the maple cabs for some experimentation.



Here are a few pics of the maple sub cabinets for those who haven't seen them: