Soldering Iron Rant/Advice

ChrisR1983 · 8th August 2009, 10:55 PM

Hi All

Well its fair to say I'm a newbie to the audio DIY scene. I like fine music and I like a fine sound. Aside from that I know mid level physics and I have a very average income/typical familly

I decided to start building a 'quality' sound system about 4 months ago.

I started with the speakers, which are about to be finished.

I asked for the advice from my local electronics store (maplins) about which soldering iron to purchase. I said I would prefer a cordless/butane iron. I queried whether this would be suitable for delicate electronics (being a 'n00b' remember I'm stupid) and the friendly assistant said: 'butane irons are ideal for what you want!'.

He was wrong.

A few components later and I'm stuck with a few melted resistors and an inoperable crossover.

I change my tactics.

I bought Duelund resistors, Mundorf Caps, AudioCap Theta caps, Goertz Inductors, Cardas Binding Posts, Mundorf Solder; I was the king!!! BUT...

I made the same mistake: cheapo soldering iron. I bought a 'special offer' soldering iron for around £10/$16. Well; I soldered 1 joint tonight and it broke. I was looking forward to building them all week. It broke. I am devistated.

Guess what I'm buying tomorrow....

A £100 soldering iron; the best I can get my dirty little hands on.

Peace out

Chris :-)

amc184 · 8th August 2009, 11:54 PM

I recently got a British made Antex XS-25 with a 01A-55 tip, very happy with it. Nowhere near the £100 you're talking, but it will do the job. If you get on of these, go for the silicone cord option, well worth it.

DigitalJunkie · 8th August 2009, 11:57 PM

Silicone cords are good,I've melted through the regular cords on the cheapie irons a couple times on accident,and was greeted by a shower of sparks!
Another worthwhile investment is an iron with a temp control.

amc184 · 9th August 2009, 12:08 AM

Yeah, a soldering station would be good, but since the iron is only for making crossovers, unnecessary.

Silicone cords seem to be more flexible than average as well, which I like. Can't say I've burned right through a PVC cord before, not something I'd like to try!

Evaas · 9th August 2009, 12:11 AM

even the cheapest weller pencil iron has served me well. in this case, name brands do seem to make a difference

AuroraB · 9th August 2009, 12:23 AM

In my professional opinion - ( pro hat on ) - and I've been in the strange mix of service - design- prototyping for over 30 years..FWIW,
Butane irons belong in the blacksmiths dep. They may - just may - do a job for a simple field job, but the one's I've tried sofar are useless for outdoor jobs.... a crude fart's worth of wind - and they are useless... and - they have no place near delicate components!

Get the best temp. controlled iron you can afford - simple as that- but anything smaller than 50W is useless for med-large components and connectors. If you can afford a Weller, go for it....
If not - start lower and upgrade when possible/ necesseary.

raudio1969 · 9th August 2009, 02:36 AM

The only issues I've have with cheap irons is they don't last. The only times I've seen the problem of melting components is due to the lack of experience of the operator, not the equipment. I suggest you get a couple of small cheap kits and practice soldering them first. Just remember not to apply pressure and only heat for a few seconds.

- Richard

Mr Evil · 9th August 2009, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by amc184
I recently got a British made Antex XS-25 with a 01A-55 tip, very happy with it. Nowhere near the £100 you're talking, but it will do the job. If you get on of these, go for the silicone cord option, well worth it.

I have one of those too. I have used it for many years and have always managed to make perfect joints with it. Higher power, temperature-controlled soldering irons may be better, but why bother spending all that when a cheap soldering iron can do everything except really big components.

poynton · 9th August 2009, 03:00 PM

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50W-SOLDERING-...d=p3286.c0.m14

This would probably do as a starter iron.

Not too far from you in Stockport, either.

Andy

PS. My last 2 purchases were Weller temp. controlled irons bought at boot sales for under a fiver each.

star882 · 9th August 2009, 05:42 PM

I use a 60w red Hakko with a dimmer to adjust the power.

8th August 2009, 10:55 PM	#1
ChrisR1983 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2009	Soldering Iron Rant/Advice Hi All Well its fair to say I'm a newbie to the audio DIY scene. I like fine music and I like a fine sound. Aside from that I know mid level physics and I have a very average income/typical familly I decided to start building a 'quality' sound system about 4 months ago. I started with the speakers, which are about to be finished. I asked for the advice from my local electronics store (maplins) about which soldering iron to purchase. I said I would prefer a cordless/butane iron. I queried whether this would be suitable for delicate electronics (being a 'n00b' remember I'm stupid) and the friendly assistant said: 'butane irons are ideal for what you want!'. He was wrong. A few components later and I'm stuck with a few melted resistors and an inoperable crossover. I change my tactics. I bought Duelund resistors, Mundorf Caps, AudioCap Theta caps, Goertz Inductors, Cardas Binding Posts, Mundorf Solder; I was the king!!! BUT... I made the same mistake: cheapo soldering iron. I bought a 'special offer' soldering iron for around £10/$16. Well; I soldered 1 joint tonight and it broke. I was looking forward to building them all week. It broke. I am devistated. Guess what I'm buying tomorrow.... A £100 soldering iron; the best I can get my dirty little hands on. Peace out Chris :-) __________________ Chris R -------

9th August 2009, 12:11 AM	#5
Evaas diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Montreal QC	cheap option even the cheapest weller pencil iron has served me well. in this case, name brands do seem to make a difference __________________ -roomatthebottom

9th August 2009, 12:23 AM	#6
AuroraB diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..	In my professional opinion - ( pro hat on ) - and I've been in the strange mix of service - design- prototyping for over 30 years..FWIW, Butane irons belong in the blacksmiths dep. They may - just may - do a job for a simple field job, but the one's I've tried sofar are useless for outdoor jobs.... a crude fart's worth of wind - and they are useless... and - they have no place near delicate components! Get the best temp. controlled iron you can afford - simple as that- but anything smaller than 50W is useless for med-large components and connectors. If you can afford a Weller, go for it.... If not - start lower and upgrade when possible/ necesseary. __________________ While the Lie leapt from Bagdad to Constantinopel, the Truth was still looking for it's sandals!

9th August 2009, 03:00 PM	#9
poynton Magneto the Gravity Man diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: A life on the ocean waves when I'm not at home in N. Wales (but I'm not Welsh so no sheep jokes!)	http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50W-SOLDERING-...d=p3286.c0.m14 This would probably do as a starter iron. Not too far from you in Stockport, either. Andy PS. My last 2 purchases were Weller temp. controlled irons bought at boot sales for under a fiver each. __________________ If it ain't broke, break it !! Then fix it again. It's called DIY !

9th August 2009, 05:42 PM	#10
star882 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	I use a 60w red Hakko with a dimmer to adjust the power. __________________ "Fully on MOSFET = closed switch, Fully off MOSFET = open switch, Half on MOSFET = poor imitation of Tiffany Yep." - also applies to IGBTs!


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8th August 2009, 11:54 PM	#2
amc184 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Christchurch	I recently got a British made Antex XS-25 with a 01A-55 tip, very happy with it. Nowhere near the £100 you're talking, but it will do the job. If you get on of these, go for the silicone cord option, well worth it.

8th August 2009, 11:57 PM	#3
DigitalJunkie diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Portland,Oregon Blog Entries: 4	Silicone cords are good,I've melted through the regular cords on the cheapie irons a couple times on accident,and was greeted by a shower of sparks! Another worthwhile investment is an iron with a temp control.

9th August 2009, 12:08 AM	#4
amc184 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Christchurch	Yeah, a soldering station would be good, but since the iron is only for making crossovers, unnecessary. Silicone cords seem to be more flexible than average as well, which I like. Can't say I've burned right through a PVC cord before, not something I'd like to try!

9th August 2009, 02:36 AM	#7
raudio1969 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: N38	The only issues I've have with cheap irons is they don't last. The only times I've seen the problem of melting components is due to the lack of experience of the operator, not the equipment. I suggest you get a couple of small cheap kits and practice soldering them first. Just remember not to apply pressure and only heat for a few seconds. - Richard

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