Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Parts
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Parts Where to get, and how to make the best bits. PCB's, caps, transformers, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 18th July 2009, 04:59 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Default Epoxy / Caulk to secure large components to PCB

Getting near the end (hopefully!) of fixing a subwoofer amplifier for my son.

While doing a final inspection prior to re-assembly, I noticed that two large power resistors (similar to Vishay Dale CPCP07 type)were loose and had broken leads on them (not salvageable). I just ordered some replacements from Mouser (boy it hurts to have to pay $8 shipping for $2 worth of parts but I wasn't able to shop for other items that I could use due to a shipping deadline).

My question is -
What sort of caulk or epoxy would be recommended to secure these large items to the pcb? The other "large" components were secured with a hard, yellowish material, but the two resistors had only a minimal amount of this material applied and had broken free.

Thanks
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th July 2009, 07:15 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
zigzagflux's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Silicone RTV gets my vote. We used them to support large power resistors and capacitors to the PCB's used in AC/DC drive equipment. Excellent vibration resistance.
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th July 2009, 07:41 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Geek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Quote:
Originally posted by zigzagflux
Silicone RTV gets my vote. We used them to support large power resistors and capacitors to the PCB's used in AC/DC drive equipment. Excellent vibration resistance.
And heat resistance.


Another good adhesive is shoe glue.



Cheers!
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th July 2009, 10:22 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
zigzagflux -
I also worked at a company that used a special "electronic" GE Silicone RTV for this purpose. The regular stuff you get at the hardware store is not suitable (eats the copper I think).

Since I really don't want to order this special RTV because of time and cost (shipping charges) can you think of anything else?

Geek -
What the heck is "shoe glue"? Can it handle the heat? It will be used to secure a 7 Watt resistor.

Thanks,
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th July 2009, 12:24 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Geek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Quote:
Originally posted by Everlast

Geek -
What the heck is "shoe glue"? Can it handle the heat? It will be used to secure a 7 Watt resistor.
A trick I stmbled across while fixing guitar amps.

Shoe glue is just that - the stuff a cobbler uses to glue the rubber onto the leather part of the shoe. Try a little shoe repair shop.

Can it handle 7 watts? I dunno, but I've seen it handle 2 or 3 watts without losing integrity.

Cheers!
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th July 2009, 02:41 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Portland,Oregon
Blog Entries: 4
Send a message via AIM to DigitalJunkie
Quote:
Originally posted by Geek


A trick I stmbled across while fixing guitar amps.

Shoe glue is just that - the stuff a cobbler uses to glue the rubber onto the leather part of the shoe. Try a little shoe repair shop.

Can it handle 7 watts? I dunno, but I've seen it handle 2 or 3 watts without losing integrity.

Cheers!

One brand name that is popular in the hobby community is "Shoo Goo"
Here's a random link from Google:
http://www.weplaysports.com/Shoe/Goo/

Any local hobby shop (RC,models,crafts,whatever) should have some.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd July 2009, 02:20 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Well I got back some information from the manufacturer of Shoo Goo and I don't think I will use it -

"SHOO GOO HAS ABOUT 0.1% OF ACETIC ACID."

According to the nice gentleman that I talked to, the acetic acid should evaporate after the product is cured, so that doesn't appear to be a big deal.

"CURED SHOO GOO CAN BE EXPOSED FOR SHORT PERIODS TO TEMPERATURES UP TO 150 F. THE CUSTOMERS NEED TO RUN TESTS TO VERIFY SUITABILITY IN THEIR APPLICATIONS."

This 150 F limitation bothers me though. Since my application is to secure a 7 watt resistor, this product just doesn't seem suitable.

I did a little surfing though and it looks like a GE Silicone II product (NOT 1, which contains acetic acid) might work.

Thanks,
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd July 2009, 11:28 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Dona paula, Goa
Use cement type or 2 part type adhesives. Here it's brand is Araldite
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can Silicon Caulk damage speakers? DeadSpeaker Multi-Way 13 19th January 2009 02:38 PM
How to secure/fix fragile wires to veroboard? HankMcSpank Everything Else 10 8th July 2008 07:48 PM
How do you secure your cables inside your cabs? dublin78 Multi-Way 15 13th March 2008 09:26 PM
Mortite/Rope Caulk for Cabinet Deadening sdclc126 Multi-Way 37 8th June 2006 11:38 PM
Using rope caulk (mortite) to seal drivers and damp vibrations percy Car Audio 0 31st July 2005 03:16 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:42 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2013 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. (Resources saved on this page: MySQL 30.00%)
Copyright ©1999-2013 diyAudio