[PROJECT] Digitial Volume/Power Control Board - diyAudio
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Old 29th June 2009, 02:30 PM   #1
Andreq is offline Andreq  Canada
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Default [PROJECT] Digitial Volume/Power Control Board

Hi,

I'd like to start a project where anyone will be able to contribute and give input.

I'm looking to create a cheap, reliable and easy to build IR controlled volume/power control board to be used in DIY Amp.

Here's the feature I'm planning implementing soon:

- IR Control of every parameters
- Digital Volume control using Digital Potentiometer.
- Digital Tone control.
- Push button interface (when not using IR)
- Power control (Relay)

And some more future ideas :

- Motorized Potentiometer control
- LCD display.
- Led Bar display (volume, tone, "VU")


The main C controller used is a Atmega328-PU.
It's the heart of the Arduino development platform on which this board will be developed.

The IR receiver will be a TSOP 1238 or equivalent (TSOP 1738...)

The Digital potentiometers are DS1807. This chip consist of 2 i2c controlled potentiometers. We will probably use 2 chips. One for volume (left, right) and one for tone (bass, treble)

Here is the first rough schematic.
Click the image to open in full size.

I'll add the serial interface so anyone can use the Arduino software to contribute.

I've attached the actual code. That's nothing fancy nor neat, but it's a work in progress.
Attached Files
File Type: txt masterboard.txt (4.7 KB, 75 views)
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Old 29th June 2009, 03:41 PM   #2
glt is offline glt  United States
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Check my blog page. I've optimized some Arduino code that you can reuse for your setup...
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Old 29th June 2009, 04:01 PM   #3
Andreq is offline Andreq  Canada
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Great blog!

Full of usefull information!

Thanks, I'll take a look at it.

Would you mind If I use some of your code? The LCD part looks pretty neat.
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Old 29th June 2009, 07:15 PM   #4
glt is offline glt  United States
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Andreq,

Please, feel free to use anything you want. I myself re-used a lot of stuff from the Arduino forums (open source). If you improve upon the code, please share that too.
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Old 30th June 2009, 02:46 AM   #5
Andreq is offline Andreq  Canada
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Little more work done this night...

I've updated the schematic :

Click the image to open in full size.

- Added the FTDI Cable header. Please let me know if my wiring is good, I was confuse with the RXD and TXD line. (And I've grounded the CTS...)
- Added a power supply jumper, just to make sure the FTDI interface would not send 5V to the regulator.
- C3 is a... sigh... "103" (10nf??) capacitor, but I think it could be pretty much anything bellow 1uf.
- By the way, R1 is a 10k pull-up resistor.


I've also got the guts to make the PCB, it wasn't that bad finally I found the placement for both IC which will permit future upgrade (adding another DS1807 in line with the first)

Click the image to open in full size.

Please let me know what you think about the PCB design. The routed line are all 16 mill which works well with UV exposure method + ink jet transparency.

Furthermore, I've cleared a bit the code and now. I'll try to work on the tone control tomorrow or later this week. I think I will not connect the tone control input directly to the volume control and let the user the choice to do so. This will make sure both controls are not Dependant on each other.
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Old 30th June 2009, 11:20 AM   #6
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Check this out if you haven't already:
http://www.ustr.net/infrared/sony.shtml

It has an algorithm for reading the code, but I still prefer the idea of using an interrupt. Something like:

1. Set external interrupt to trigger on any transition (rising edge and falling edge detection).
2. Ignore first falling edge and rising edge (start bit).
3. Next falling edge start a timer (with interrupt) that will increment a variable every so many micro seconds.
4. Next rising edge stop the timer and read the variable. Use the count to determine whether it was a 1 or a 0.
5. Reset everything.

Example timer setup: if you use the internal 8MHz clock with a timer divider of 256, you'll have 21 counts for a 0 and 40 counts for a 1.
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Old 30th June 2009, 07:26 PM   #7
glt is offline glt  United States
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Sony is the easiest to detect (of all the IR protocols), so simpler code can be used like this:

http://hifiduino.blogspot.com/2009/0...mote-code.html

(of course with the help of pulse measuring function in Arduino)
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Old 30th June 2009, 07:33 PM   #8
Andreq is offline Andreq  Canada
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Thanks for all this info, but it's already done

Look at the MasterControl source code Ive posted on the first post.

I'll try to upload the new code tonight (which is a bit more clear).
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Old 30th June 2009, 11:06 PM   #9
Andreq is offline Andreq  Canada
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Updates :

I've played with the schematic and board a little.

- Added Gnd and 5V pads for future external device upgrade
- Added header to every non connected Arduino (Atmega328) pin for future upgrade.
- Rerouted some ground wire and moved some component
- Changed 78l05 to 7805 as it has more power (and that's the only one I have laying around )
- Removed jumper "voltage selector", hope it will still be "ok". Please give me some input on this

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I've attached the most recent sketch code.

Let me know if you want the Eagle schematic/pcb files or the "Ardunio" sketch files.
Attached Files
File Type: txt mainboard.txt (4.1 KB, 23 views)
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Old 1st July 2009, 10:11 PM   #10
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Default Are you making boards?

I'd love to have a board to play with if you make some boards.

If you are hand doing them, then don't worry about it....but a PCB run would be fun.

thx,
Tom
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