Tandberg 3001a battery & switches - diyAudio
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Old 15th May 2009, 01:06 PM   #1
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Default Tandberg 3001a battery & switches

Anybody know of a source for the preset memory switches or the battery?
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Old 2nd January 2011, 08:12 PM   #2
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Location: Fosser, Aurskog-Holand, Akershus, Norway.
In the US I recomend Packrat14.

You find him in EBAY

Say hello from me.
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Old 2nd January 2011, 09:50 PM   #3
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Thanks. That is who I ended up getting them from! A pleasure to do business with. Regards
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Old 23rd November 2011, 05:24 PM   #4
nat8808 is offline nat8808  United Kingdom
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Location: London
I'm currently sorting out my 3001 - battery and power caps and mechanical for the tuning.

Batteries are Varta 1.2V 150mAh like these: VARTA|55615201940|BATTERY, PCB MOUNT, 1.2V | Farnell United Kingdom 1.83 from Farnell (plus postage of course).

Not yet bought one but my other, good 3001A already had it replaced and measures 1.3V (i.e. pretty typical voltage for a 1.2V rated cell).

Switches are just switches though.. Not usual for button switches to break as such, probably just need a squirt of switch cleaner and some pressing. If they need replacing, just measure them up and see what you can find.
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Old 23rd November 2011, 06:29 PM   #5
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Location: Fosser, Aurskog-Holand, Akershus, Norway.
Default Switches and batteries for the TPT30XX tuners

I try not to advertise too much for myself, but I have both on stock too.

So any who need such may contact me.

Pay through PayPal, and I ship worldwide.
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Old 23rd November 2011, 07:43 PM   #6
nat8808 is offline nat8808  United Kingdom
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What are other common failures on these? I'm going to replace the power supply caps as they're bulging - replace with something very long life like Vishay.

Do you know what else should be replaced besides these and battery?
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Old 23rd November 2011, 08:00 PM   #7
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Location: Fosser, Aurskog-Holand, Akershus, Norway.
Rarely the storing-system goes "crazy". Then it is the ICs down on the tuningsystem 2 that has gone bad. Also there is a special IC at the Tuningsyste, 1 that makes the tuning voltage to lock at 26V, and since this OP-amp is of a very special type, there is quite difficult to get theese at a reasonable price.
Some problems is seen in the switching between manual tuning and stored stations. Some tweaking may be nessesary.
And ofcourse the backup battery.
If this one has leaked, you may have serious problems, as the acid from the battery eats component-legs and pcb.

Also theese tunesr are full of bad solderjoints, due to large unsupported PCBs.
Especially the Stereodecoder and IF plus the mainboard.
Lots of patience and time to fix theese, and the tuner should be good for another thirty years of service. One should try that with products made today......

I probably forgot one or two things here, but feel free to ask further.
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Old 23rd November 2011, 08:49 PM   #8
nat8808 is offline nat8808  United Kingdom
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The battery has leaked but not too far (I've removed it) and there are problems switching between manual and stored - looks like just poor contact between the knob and the copper contact at the back..

The needle get's stuck half way across so needs some mechanical attention too.

But it otherwise tunes ok and sounds good but the bulging power caps send horrible crackles through to the output randomly.

I picked up a whole 3001-4 system for 250 about 4 years ago in a special system stand but had been in a shed for a while so a little corrosion and dents on the front of each. The guy said he did have the rare 3005 speakers too but had thrown them away just because the foam surrounds were rotten Now it's out of storage and I'm slowly going through each piece, starting with the 3001.

Looks like this:

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by nat8808; 23rd November 2011 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 24th November 2011, 07:34 PM   #9
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Location: Fosser, Aurskog-Holand, Akershus, Norway.
Well, I wish You a happy restoration of that set.
And to throw away those speakers.. I'm horrified.

Just let me know if You need any parts. I have several items in store.

As for the tuning-switch-problem, there may be a quite simple fix.
Rarely the problem is with the contact at the back of the tuningknob, but sometimes the filt-washer between the knob and the front is worn away. This causes the knob to get in contact with the front, and thereby muting the signal needed from Your fingers.
There was on some models fitted a fixed resistor in the spot where the sensitivity potmeter should be. Refit a pot there if needed.

Again, good luck with the restoration.
I am one of thees who like to see theese in full use, and to put it into connection to my nick here, it really spells Tendbergsaver; The one hwo saves theese good old Tandberg-stuff.
(Please appologize my bad english, I'm better in fixing theese than to write about it.)
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Old 30th November 2011, 10:21 PM   #10
nat8808 is offline nat8808  United Kingdom
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I'm just in the process of putting my 3001 back together after fixing a few things.

I replaced the PSU caps with some long life Vishays - they are slightly too wide at 25mm diameter so had to push a couple of film caps to an angle and they also have odd snap-in contacts that need to be cut to size.

Err.. I'm not actually sure they needed replacement - what I thought was a blown cap turned out to just be a warped plastic disk on the top! The metal can itself was fine.. oh-well. They may still have been needed replacement as the PSU does get pretty warm, even hot.

Vishay battery was easy to do appart from dismantling the machine to get the boards appart.. Didn't help that I didn't notice the nylon spacers with clips on. Maybe I didn't need to dismantle as much as I did if I'd noticed those..

I take it back about the switches - one had failed by no longer springing back. It still made contact, just wouldn't turn off, which explains why it would suddenly switch to that preset... They are sealed (double sealed as they're dipped in wax!) units with a rubberised conductor that can fall apart so it no longer has the springy-ness to it. Must have been very good quality - gold plated contacts with no signs of corrosion because of the sealing - just a shame they only last 30 years mechanically

I managed to replace this using a cheap, standard momentary push button from a Sky Plus box I'd stripped (PSU gone but I took the HD and it's a good basic DIY case with a nice LED matrix). It was a real bodge to extend the short wires of my scavanged switch and I took the housing/moving parts of the old switch and glued the lot together to make it all fit - it the appears to work! It has a more solid and definate click to it than the others, which I prefer. Resistance of this switch when closed is much lower so I hope that doesn't matter. Personally I would recommend finding a good set of replacements .

I'll follow up to say if's made much difference...
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