Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Parts
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Parts Where to get, and how to make the best bits. PCB's, caps, transformers, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 14th May 2009, 09:27 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Default IDE/ATA specs

I'm building a box with a set of six 500GB IDE hard drives, each connected by an IDE to USB cable to a USB2.0 hub. I've purchased a cheap 100W computer PSU to power the drives.

There are two things I want to do that I need help with:

1) I want to have an "activity" light for each of the drives and, according to Wikipedia's entry on Parallel ATA, pin 39 is the activity pin. However, on HowStuffWorks the pin is listed as DASP (Drive Active / Slave Present). I'm assuming that because each drive is only connecting to a single USB convertor cable (i.e. there's no slave drive) there should be no problem using this to drive the activity LED, right? What would be the best way to drive the LED from that signal given that the drive is powered by an ATX-style (+5V, 0, 0, +12V) molex connector?

2) I want the drives to power on when the +5V line of the USB cable (from the PC) goes high. The power supply can be turned on by shorting pin 14 (PS_ON) of the ATX header to a ground pin. Would it be possible to solder the coil of a 5V relay over the +5V and GND pins of the USB cable, then connect the switch over PS_ON and a ground on the ATX header? Would I need to put a capacitor over the switch to reduce jitter?

Cheers,
NK
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2009, 08:31 AM   #2
dangus is offline dangus  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver Island
1) Use some sort of buffer chip (or discrete transistors) to drive the LEDs. Like a ULN2003 kind of thing, or an HCMOS hex inverter. Presumably you can solder a wire to pin 39 on the USB adapter. For that matter, some USB adapters might even have activity LEDs on them.

2) The relay could work, but a transistor should work too. NPN transistor, base to the USB 5V through 1k, and 10k from the base to ground. Emitter to ground, collector to the ATX on line. Probably.

Personally, I'd rather put the drives in the computer and use a Promise IDE controller which adds 4 IDE ports. But then I don't completely trust this newfangled USB yet.

I presume you'll be adding some generous cooling for these drives; I'd use two or three salvaged power supply fans blowing incoming air directly over the drives, maybe running on reduced voltage (7 to 9 volts) to quiet them down. Passive just doesn't cut it, unless maybe you're taking advantage of special power-saving features. Just leaving a 3.5" drive plugged into a USB adapter on the desk, the case temp hits 50 C or so after running for an hour. Not good for longevity.
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2009, 11:21 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
For part one, do you mean put pin 39 of the IDE adapter to an inverter (NOT gate) and then drive the LED through the output? I thought it was active high? Although in that case would I just use two inverters in series?

Regarding the transistor idea, could I still put a 5uF (or possibly 10uF) cap over the LED without it causing issues? I don't want the LED to be flickering uber-fast.

The issue is that my PC already has 6x 1TB SATA hard drives in it, which uses up all available slots. There's no space to put the drives anywhere. Eventually I'm going to remove the USB controllers and have a cheap PC build set up as a server with this unit attached. A cheap socket AM2 board with Athlon X2 + cooler and 1GB of DDR2 comes to £100 right now, without a case. Add 3 or 4 two port IDE controllers for £13 each and you're looking at £150 overall. That's without drives. My current build is costing me around £50 in total, again without drives.

The case I'm making is going to use a PWM control. I have a pair of thermistors going to analog inputs on a PIC, with digital outputs driving the fan PWM pins. It's a simple linear relationship between input level and output frequency. The drives sit on their sides to allow better convection cooling, and there's a pair of fans at the top and bottom of the unit for when convection isn't enough. I've attached a basic idea of my design for airflow. The view is from the side; left = back of the unit, right = front.
Attached Images
File Type: gif cooler-design.gif (6.7 KB, 46 views)
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Re different than specs? mitchyz250f Multi-Way 0 23rd March 2009 11:20 PM
MS 5.30 Specs Inductor Multi-Way 0 4th September 2007 09:37 AM
Anyone Know what are the specs opf this amp? celeronkevin Class D 1 20th July 2006 02:03 AM
sub specs l2z2ama Subwoofers 2 13th November 2003 12:41 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:03 AM.

Page generated in 0.07775 seconds (78.30% PHP - 21.70% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio