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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Argentina
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Hi guys, i want to start using some Metal PushButtons that come with leds, these support 250v-5A so i think that will be very safe for my amps
btw, the leds are rated in diferent values, and i really dont know wich to purchase. The leds can be for 12, 24, 110, or 220V, i was thinking that maybe using directly 220v will be easy because can connect the primary of the toroid directly to the switch (like im doing right now with some of my amps), but im a little scared abt use an metal switch with 220v into his Led what you recommend me? think that using 220v will be OK? The metal buttons are like this https://www.hypexshop.com/DetailServlet?detailID=1908 or http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/ip6...led-p-158.html Thanks in advance |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Argentina
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noone?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
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I'm sure they are fine - most likely the ones that run from 120 or 240V are neon based rather than LED. The other ones run from your 12/24VDC supply.
Note that these switches (bulgin vandal proof type) are all momentary - ie you need some kind of relay board to actually turn on and off the power. If they had those type in a latching on/off style I'd be buying them for sure! Fran |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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The seed is a mains switch but only push to make. It must operate a circuit that latches a relay.
Then feed DC back to illuminate the LED. The Hypex is not mains rated. But it could control a circuit that latches a relay if powered from an always live auxiliary LV supply. search latching circuits or similar.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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samsagaz:
I have a couple samples of the first switch (made by ITT, I think), which were acquired for but never used in an Aikido preamplifier that was completed a couple of years ago. The switches are well made, industrial quality, large (too large for my Aikido) and designed for tamper-resistent applications, such as elevator buttons. I'll find a use for them some day, but it will be tough using them in an audio component: they have a kind of massive vibe that somehow seems inconsistent with the intimacy of music and audio applications. If they were half the size I'd use 'em by the boatload, and my efforts to locate that smaller, illuminated momentary switch have been unsuccessful. Regards, Scott |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wirral UK
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samsagaz
Take a look at this article, it may be of some use http://www.amb.org/audio/epsilon24/ There is a simpler version (if you dont need the thermal protection) half way down this page titled "Doing it discretely" http://www.cpemma.co.uk/flipflop.html Hope it helps John |
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#7 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Argentina
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Argentina
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So wich you recommend me?
12 or 24V will be better, right? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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There is a seller on e*ay that has this type of latching switch rated for mains voltage. The LED is also powered from the mains.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Locking-illumi...713.m153.l1262
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"If you don't like funerals don't kick sand in Ninja's face." - Ninja |
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