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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hamilton
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that sound about right, thanks for that info,
the input GND to output GND is 10.5 ohms. |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Aveiro-Portugal
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Quote:
If the amp was Stereo it will need two speakers outputs also... To Patrick: Input is correct Connect power supply + to the board + " " " - " " " - " the + of the loudpeaker to the output side of the inductor " " power supply ground to the ground connection near the output inductor And connect the - of the loudspeaker to the power supply ground...or to the point that connect the power supply ground to the board!!(this depend of the implementation of the circuit!!) But please...short connections!! After enjoy the music!!! Cheers
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Jorge |
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#23 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Quote:
I meant that the right hole is input signal, and the left one is input ground. Not something with left and right inputs
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Aveiro-Portugal
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Hi Megajocke!!
Sorry!!!...i haven't understand you right!! Is because we both aren't talking our native languages... Cheers
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Jorge |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hamilton
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thanks for the reply's.
i knew that this was a monoblock. the real problem that i was trying to solve was which out of all those wires was +ve power, -ve power, GND and audio output. i have now solved this problem thanks to pinkmouse. just one question, what setting should i have the POT (one in the center of the bord) set at (ie what volts). other than that this amp makes quite a good sub amp. thanks for all you input.
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#26 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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The pot is probably for adjusting the bias current- to do that you will need advice from someone who knows the mosfets. I don't, sorry.
But if it works well, and doesn't run too hot, you can probably leave it for a while.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Aveiro-Portugal
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Quote:
Yes the pot is probably for adjusting the bias current or for adjusting the of set voltage...only the schematic can tell ..but i bet that is for bias adjustment...! ![]() The typical bias currents for 2SK135/2SJ50 are 100mA per device...
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Jorge |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Does anyone know anything more about these transistors? They seem to be similar to 2SK135/2SJ50. I can't find any datasheets.
2SK227: 160V, 7A, 100W 2SJ83: 160V, 7A, 100W |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Near Amsterdam
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Hi Akersa,
The replacements of the 2SK135 and the 2SJ50 are the 2SK1058 and the 2SJ162. They are nearly the same(from specs)but not so in service so look for the good bias...Prefer the old TO-3 ones(for sound and shielding),altough the flat-ones better mount:-)) The picture that Patrick shows is one of the cresendo from elektor...they had a miniversion (about half the size of the cresendo) They recommended a current of 100 mA(measured by the 5 resistors of 1 ohm at their sources..)i would settle for 800mA,if you have a big enough cooling!! They run very hot,but still work,after more then 20 years of service..idle still the same as then..nothing changed..yet... Happy listening!
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Vision is the Art of seeing things invisable. |
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#30 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Munich
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Quote:
what is gm ? And in which area of current ? Bernhard |
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