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#11 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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I have also a special feeling for these transistors. My first MOSFET amp was built in 1983 and is still working. The original transistors delivered 2 x 285 W at 4 ohm but later I changed them and then got 2 x 500 W!
I you are pleased with the sound, no reason for changing but I have a friend which had difficult speakers and together with a high output impedance amp they sounded peculiar. They sounded allright with a "normal" amp.
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/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me Tube Buffered Gainclone in work |Thread |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ingolstadt Germany
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Hi,
I also build 4 or 5 amps with 2sj50/2sk135. The oldest must be almost 20 years old by now and it´s still working. I also experimented with bias. Big improvement up to 200mA, after that still getting better but more subtle. I also used them without source resistors but found it a bit difficult to check the bias per device so now I´m using 5x1watt resistors per fet. Here´s a picture of my current amp william
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een ooievaar is geen konijn want zijn oren zijn te klein! |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Munich
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Are there data sheets also for the 2SJ55 / 2SK175 ?
Where can I find theese or BUZ 900 series at reasonable price ? I like to built the monolytic supersymmetry amp with them. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hamilton
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Hello.
I need help with an amp that i have received, it was a kitset DT MOS 250. this included a working PCB, filter caps and center tapp transformer (50V 0V 50V). the main problem if the wire up of the power transformer. the design is this: but i dont know exactly where the output goes. could someone please help me. also what does the +ve and -ve on the PCB repersent, is this the speaker output? And where does the power +ve GND and -ve go? thanks. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hamilton
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s didn't want to load for you, just as they diddn't for me, please go here:
http://www25.brinkster.com/pbridgman/img/pcb.jpg http://www25.brinkster.com/pbridgman/img/diag.jpg this will make my previous post more sence. |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
It looks like your website won't allow external linking to images ![]() A long as they are under 100k you can an image to each post by using the button at the bottom of the reply page. If this fails, email them to me and I will post them for you. I will reserve further comments until the pics are up, cos its easy to make mistakes without all the evidence
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hamilton
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Sorry.
if this doesn't work, just copy the link into your browser. http://www25.brinkster.com/pbridgman/main.htm (i don't like brinkster that much). |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Ok
Input looks ok, +&- ve are the power inputs, and the connections at the top are probably earth and speaker output. To pin down the earth a little better could you post a pic of the track side of the PCB? The return from the speaker will go to a star earth point,( as will the other earth connections), and that is something that will need to be made when the enclosure is built.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hamilton
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I've got more images on the same web site www25.brinkster.com/pbridgman/main.htm
I also have another one of these amps which is half wired up (these were Salvaged and some wires were cut but they do work) and if you look carefuly at the power wires they do go into the two close unmarked wires (ignore the colour coding i think it is incorrect) and the wire that i have marked as disconnected had come from a power on delay unit. And the two -ve and +ve wires are not connected to any thing. but i am still confused about which is +ve power, -ve power and GND. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
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It looks like:
The one marked +ve is positive power, the one marked -ve is negative power. The wire to the right, above that resistor with a coil on the outside is speaker out, The left one is speaker and power common. (this seems to be right looking at unit number 2) Input signal is the right one and common the left one. Is the screen on the input cable connected to the left one? (if it isn't that is weird) What is the resistance between input common and output common? You might need to connect them externally. Ugh... the wire colors on the second unit are totally messed up Red for ground??? Never seen that before... Black wire for speaker out? Both positive and negative power red ![]() But are you sure what you are doing? Be careful at least... |
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