Ultimate outlet blowing fuses

mantisory · 29th July 2008, 01:05 PM

Hi all,
So i had a PS Audio Ultimate outlet for a total of 3 days before there was an electrical storm and the next morning, it was dead. It just keeps blowing fuses.
So, since I got it used, and it would cost between 40-50 bucks, plus shipping both ways from Canada to California, to fix, I figure I am going to try to fix it, but really don't know what to check.
I mean, I am going to desolder one leg of each diode (there are 6 near each other on the board, plus one lone one and a zener) and check them. After that, I am not sure - there is a Tyco T90-type relay...any ideas how I could check that, assuming the diodes are okay?
I am assuming that the various caps in the thing are functional...none of them look 'burnt'- is that a good assumption to make to start?
Thanks for any suggestions you have,
Byron

theAnonymous1 · 29th July 2008, 01:19 PM

Maybe a shorted MOV (metal oxide varistor)?

mantisory · 29th July 2008, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by theAnonymous1
Maybe a shorted MOV (metal oxide varistor)?

Thanks...is there a way to test them? There are a few that I can see...should start there?
Byron

mantisory · 11th August 2008, 11:02 PM

I am going to replace the 4 varistors (since they seem to be pretty cheap anyway), but can't seem to be able to find which ones i need...
the part # on it is "ZNR V20221U" - any ideas on what I should replace it with?
I am thinking that it's a 220V 21mm package type? But am unsure...
B

mantisory · 13th August 2008, 03:29 PM

Well, I figured that one out, and replaced all the varistors - another fuse blown.
I dunno, it's either one (or more) of the diodes or maybe the relay in it...either way, i think i may just junk it.
thanks for all your (non)help

b

jneutron · 13th August 2008, 10:21 PM

There is a distinct possibility that the unit "threw itself on the grenade".

As a result of it's selfless devotion to duty, what you had on the line is still ok.

Ask the vendor. If they concur, I'd recommend buying another.

I just lost a CO detector and had a smart thermostat de-programmed as a result of a "transient". (ya had ta see the lightning, awesome..)

Cheers, John

mantisory · 14th August 2008, 11:50 AM

Yeah, I called them. The guy figures it'd be 40 to 50 bucks to fix...with shipping to Calif. both ways from Toronto, that'd put it around 100 probably - it's as good as a brick - oh well, maybe i can use the parts out of it anyway (actually, it'd be a good housing for a power supply

Thanks,
Byron

gtforme00 · 15th August 2008, 03:57 PM

You said you were going to check the diodes, did you? You don't need to desolder a lead to check if they are shorted, just test them in circuit. Looking at the cutaway view of the unit, it is very simple and there just aren't that many possibilities for failure. Check the diodes, and check to make sure that the windings of the common mode choke are not shorted to each other. There should be two coils on the toroid, they are counter wound from each other and there should be a very high resistance between the coils.

If you have checked the capacitors for shorts, the diodes for shorts, the MOV's for shorts, and the choke coil for shorts, there isn't really anything else to check unless some solder melted off and shorted the PCB.

-David

mantisory · 16th August 2008, 02:27 PM

Oh, I kinda thought I'd have to remove the diodes (at least one end) to get a proper idea if they're okay...otherwise, it could also be the relay in there, no?
thanks,
b

mantisory · 16th August 2008, 03:04 PM

by the way, there is a zener in there that reads 6.2 MOhm in one direction, OL in the other...does that sound okay?

29th July 2008, 01:05 PM	#1
mantisory diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: toronto	Ultimate outlet blowing fuses Hi all, So i had a PS Audio Ultimate outlet for a total of 3 days before there was an electrical storm and the next morning, it was dead. It just keeps blowing fuses. So, since I got it used, and it would cost between 40-50 bucks, plus shipping both ways from Canada to California, to fix, I figure I am going to try to fix it, but really don't know what to check. I mean, I am going to desolder one leg of each diode (there are 6 near each other on the board, plus one lone one and a zener) and check them. After that, I am not sure - there is a Tyco T90-type relay...any ideas how I could check that, assuming the diodes are okay? I am assuming that the various caps in the thing are functional...none of them look 'burnt'- is that a good assumption to make to start? Thanks for any suggestions you have, Byron

29th July 2008, 01:19 PM	#2
theAnonymous1 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Anonymityville	Maybe a shorted MOV (metal oxide varistor)? __________________ "If you don't like funerals don't kick sand in Ninja's face." - Ninja

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11th August 2008, 11:02 PM	#4
mantisory diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: toronto	I am going to replace the 4 varistors (since they seem to be pretty cheap anyway), but can't seem to be able to find which ones i need... the part # on it is "ZNR V20221U" - any ideas on what I should replace it with? I am thinking that it's a 220V 21mm package type? But am unsure... B

13th August 2008, 03:29 PM	#5
mantisory diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: toronto	Well, I figured that one out, and replaced all the varistors - another fuse blown. I dunno, it's either one (or more) of the diodes or maybe the relay in it...either way, i think i may just junk it. thanks for all your (non)help b

13th August 2008, 10:21 PM	#6
jneutron diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: away	There is a distinct possibility that the unit "threw itself on the grenade". As a result of it's selfless devotion to duty, what you had on the line is still ok. Ask the vendor. If they concur, I'd recommend buying another. I just lost a CO detector and had a smart thermostat de-programmed as a result of a "transient". (ya had ta see the lightning, awesome..) Cheers, John

14th August 2008, 11:50 AM	#7
mantisory diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: toronto	Yeah, I called them. The guy figures it'd be 40 to 50 bucks to fix...with shipping to Calif. both ways from Toronto, that'd put it around 100 probably - it's as good as a brick - oh well, maybe i can use the parts out of it anyway (actually, it'd be a good housing for a power supply Thanks, Byron

15th August 2008, 03:57 PM	#8
gtforme00 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	You said you were going to check the diodes, did you? You don't need to desolder a lead to check if they are shorted, just test them in circuit. Looking at the cutaway view of the unit, it is very simple and there just aren't that many possibilities for failure. Check the diodes, and check to make sure that the windings of the common mode choke are not shorted to each other. There should be two coils on the toroid, they are counter wound from each other and there should be a very high resistance between the coils. If you have checked the capacitors for shorts, the diodes for shorts, the MOV's for shorts, and the choke coil for shorts, there isn't really anything else to check unless some solder melted off and shorted the PCB. -David

16th August 2008, 02:27 PM	#9
mantisory diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: toronto	Oh, I kinda thought I'd have to remove the diodes (at least one end) to get a proper idea if they're okay...otherwise, it could also be the relay in there, no? thanks, b

16th August 2008, 03:04 PM	#10
mantisory diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: toronto	by the way, there is a zener in there that reads 6.2 MOhm in one direction, OL in the other...does that sound okay?

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