Best Way to Fit a Neutrik NYS373 RCA Plug?
What's the best way to put one of these low cost Neutrik plugs on
I'm mainly uncertain about where to solder the shield wire to and
whether you're expected to crimp the cable in the section to the
far right in the photo.
Anyone developed a good method.
OK then. Here's my illustrated guide. Let me know what you think :)
Referring to the picture below:
I used a soldering iron, flux cored solder wire, snipe nose pliers,
wire cutters and a jewellers loupe/magnifying glass. I also used a
flux pen which is like a felt/fibre tip pen but filled with an alcoholic
solution of solder flux. Extra flux on top of the flux inside cored
solder wire makes soldering work much better, although you
shouldn't use it to tin the end of a stripped wire as it tends to draw
the solder way up the wire into the insulation where you normally
want the wire to be flexible. If you don't have flux the following will
still work but is more difficult.
1) Apply flux just along the semicircular edge of the connector. Tin
the edge and also a little way onto the inner curved surface. When
cool apply more flux along the tinned edge.
2) Prepare the wire as illustrated, cutting and tinning the central
conductor. The length of the central conductor limits how far you
can push the cable into the connector. Cut it so they fit together as
shown in picture 3. Pull the shield wire tightly back along the cable.
Splay the shield wire out to just fit within the semicircle of the
connector you tinned in the last step.
3) Fit the cable to the connector and solder the central
conductor in place. Pull and bend back the shield wire so it sits
tightly against the tinned semicircle edge but away from the outer
surface of the semicircular tube. Apply flux to the wire where it
contacts the tinned semicircle and solder along this edge with a
little solder. Make sure the solder flows and all the shield wires are
soldered to the connector. While soldering keep the main cable
insulation slightly away from the hot area to avoid melting it.
4) After trimming the excess shield wire & solder this is the result.
Remove any further excess with a file or abrasive paper and smooth
off any sharp edges. Check for and remove any filings, dust or lose
5) & 6) At this point the connectors plastic 'chuck' can be fitted
and the connector outer shell screwed in place with the appropriate
spring cable stress reliever as required. I took the additional step
of filling the empty volume surrounding the central conductor with
epoxy resin to prevent any possibility of the wires or cable moving
in this area. I mixed micro balloons with the epoxy to increase its
viscosity but with the added bonus of reducing its dielectric constant.
You can just see the white resin mix in the photos.
That certainly looks like a good way, there may be a better way, but I'd be more than happy with that if they were my interconnects. :)
|All times are GMT. The time now is 08:01 AM.|
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2013 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2013 diyAudio