I was wondering if it is worthwhile to add a vacuum pump electric desoldering gun to my tools.I have of course been using the usual handheld pump but I was wondering how much more convenient would a gun be?
For example,is it going to desolder plated thru PCB/components that are very difficult to do?
For example,is it going to desolder plated thru PCB/components that are very difficult to do?
I once "raced" another technician in replacing components on a bunch of identical circuit boards. He used a Pace desoldering station, I used my trusty manual Soldapullt model DS 017, and our time per board was just about identical. One problem with the desoldering guns is with the tips clogging; the other is that most systems don't pull the same peak vacuums that the manual tool can.
I'd only consider getting a really good gun. Like a Pace, and maybe one that runs off a pneumatic-powered vacuum source (uses compressed air to create a vacuum using the Bernouilli effect).
I'd only consider getting a really good gun. Like a Pace, and maybe one that runs off a pneumatic-powered vacuum source (uses compressed air to create a vacuum using the Bernouilli effect).
And, to address the original question about desoldering plated-through boards:
I replaced dozens of 28 pin modules on plated-through, 4-layer boards, using the previously mentioned Soldapullt and a standard Weller soldering iron. There is skill and timing involved, to get the solder hot enough, then simultaneously pull the tip away and apply the solder-sucker. And it helps if the hole diameter is relatively large compared to the pin, and the pins are located in the center of the hole.
With pins that were connected to the inner power or ground planes, I usually had to leave those until last, and just heat 'em up and pry the component out. Then it was possible to get the hole clean by holding the soldering iron to one side of the board and sucking from the other.
On another board that I worked on that had heavy power and ground planes, I often had to just carefully drill the solder out.
Generally, I prefer to remove components destructively in order to preserve the circuit board at all costs. With ICs, that means clipping the pins along one side, then bending it back and forth to break of the others. Remove pins one at a time, then suck the solder out.
I replaced dozens of 28 pin modules on plated-through, 4-layer boards, using the previously mentioned Soldapullt and a standard Weller soldering iron. There is skill and timing involved, to get the solder hot enough, then simultaneously pull the tip away and apply the solder-sucker. And it helps if the hole diameter is relatively large compared to the pin, and the pins are located in the center of the hole.
With pins that were connected to the inner power or ground planes, I usually had to leave those until last, and just heat 'em up and pry the component out. Then it was possible to get the hole clean by holding the soldering iron to one side of the board and sucking from the other.
On another board that I worked on that had heavy power and ground planes, I often had to just carefully drill the solder out.
Generally, I prefer to remove components destructively in order to preserve the circuit board at all costs. With ICs, that means clipping the pins along one side, then bending it back and forth to break of the others. Remove pins one at a time, then suck the solder out.
Desoldering guns are all good and well but unless you get a very expensive desoldering station they can be more trouble than they are worth. If you are in a commercial environment doing this kind of stuff for hours on end, a few days each week, then you could probably justify the cost. As a DIYer I have to put in another vote for the trusty DS-017.
Pace MBT350 station at work with desolder tool & built in vacuum. I have tried solder suckers in combination with a regular iron, and the Pace wins not by miles but by light-years. I have DS 017 at work and it sucks in comparison IMO (though it is still be best solder pump out there, period). I might try that iron + sucker combination that was linked earlier, maybe I will order one before I buy myself a nice rework station (I have been budgeting ~800USD for a rework station, Hakko, Pace or OkI are on the list).
I've desoldered 28 pin DIP's and they just fall out of the holes with the Pace. And our DIP decals at work have fairly small holes. Something I've been meaning to fix anyway.
I've desoldered 28 pin DIP's and they just fall out of the holes with the Pace. And our DIP decals at work have fairly small holes. Something I've been meaning to fix anyway.
I always wondered how these worked also. Anyone have any experience?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330193230190&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=014
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=370-325
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330193230190&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=014
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=370-325
This is not very expensive, but is it going to be better than a soldapult?
http://cgi.ebay.com/808-5-808-KIT-P...yZ109556QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/808-5-808-KIT-P...yZ109556QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I have this old Desoldering station i just love. they were sold under ESE and Sylvania brand names. basic vacum pump inside but the tool is a Endeco desoldering handle with a glass bulb ontop. You can buy them used for next to nothing but they glass bulbs are almost always missing. I went to a local Neon sign shop and had them make me a dozen of them or so to last a lifetime. its not perfect. but it was cheap and works great!!
If one were to buy a "pro" model for serious shop use. whats the hot ticket today? Budget is say up to $500 for something new or used.
Zc
If one were to buy a "pro" model for serious shop use. whats the hot ticket today? Budget is say up to $500 for something new or used.
Zc
I used a solder pump for just one day, when I had a big service job to do on a Neve V1.
It cost me plenty to get it on the plane (I was working in Norway) and on the first day it cost me so much time I abandoned the idea.
It continually clogged, pulled eyelets off pcb s (!!!) and generally was a pain in the a**e, no matter how much I tried to set it up.
I've always used a solder sucker, but the heated one from maplin looks like it could be ok?
Destructive removal of switches, pots etc. does seem to save pcb s from stripping tracks.
It cost me plenty to get it on the plane (I was working in Norway) and on the first day it cost me so much time I abandoned the idea.
It continually clogged, pulled eyelets off pcb s (!!!) and generally was a pain in the a**e, no matter how much I tried to set it up.
I've always used a solder sucker, but the heated one from maplin looks like it could be ok?
Destructive removal of switches, pots etc. does seem to save pcb s from stripping tracks.
The referred Ebay items are nothing more than a heated solder pump, which works OK, but albeit with all the problems of the standard solder pump - meaning the usual problem is that the circuit board gets too much heat, with the copper tracks getting loose a s a result. This can also be a problem with the "proper" tools, like Pace and Weller etc.
A common trick, is to apply fresh solder to the joint, to give the suction pumps "something to work with".
Pace, Weller and other "pro" tools works well within their limits, but needs to be cleaned often. Fresh, scratch-free tips is also a must.
The most gentle method by far, is using solder wick or desoldering braid, and you can buy an awful lot of solder wick for the cost of a Pace station, unless you get it cheap off EPay.
If the component to be removed is blown, the best way is to snip off the legs and remove them one by one using a standard soldering iron, and then clean up with solder wick. The fresh solder trick works good here too.
( I do use both Pace and Weller systems at work...)
A common trick, is to apply fresh solder to the joint, to give the suction pumps "something to work with".
Pace, Weller and other "pro" tools works well within their limits, but needs to be cleaned often. Fresh, scratch-free tips is also a must.
The most gentle method by far, is using solder wick or desoldering braid, and you can buy an awful lot of solder wick for the cost of a Pace station, unless you get it cheap off EPay.
If the component to be removed is blown, the best way is to snip off the legs and remove them one by one using a standard soldering iron, and then clean up with solder wick. The fresh solder trick works good here too.
( I do use both Pace and Weller systems at work...)
The first desoldering system i purchased was a weller i think. Had the heated gun type handle with the glass tube on the top. what a piece of junk! It was always too hot, pulled off traces and the little felt pads would catch on fire inside and stink to high heaven!!!
That definitely shied me away from desoldering systems for a while. then i found these old ESE/Sylvania units and man these things work great. Just the right amount of everything and not too much of anything.
So, finding a GOOD desoldering system is key. I have never had much luck with those manually operated pumps. never long enough suction to complete the job it seemed. I use Solderwick often still for some jobs. usually clean up of the PCB after i have removed the component.
and i use the clip and remove method sometimes as well. Had a plated through hole board last night i was working on that the VIA's were so small there was no way wick or a pump was going to do anything but kill the board. so clipping the leads and then clean up was the only method. no one tool seems to be king for all.
Zc
That definitely shied me away from desoldering systems for a while. then i found these old ESE/Sylvania units and man these things work great. Just the right amount of everything and not too much of anything.
So, finding a GOOD desoldering system is key. I have never had much luck with those manually operated pumps. never long enough suction to complete the job it seemed. I use Solderwick often still for some jobs. usually clean up of the PCB after i have removed the component.
and i use the clip and remove method sometimes as well. Had a plated through hole board last night i was working on that the VIA's were so small there was no way wick or a pump was going to do anything but kill the board. so clipping the leads and then clean up was the only method. no one tool seems to be king for all.
Zc
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