I have a Hakko Red 60w soldering iron that I want to use for connectors (1/4", RCA). The problem is, as soon as it heats up the tip oxidizes. I actually sat there with solder on the tip as it heated up, hoping to tin it just as it got hot enough for the solder, but even as I'm doing that it oxidizes.
I tried using that chemical tip cleaner/tinner stuff, and it worked great--for about ten seconds. Then the newly cleaned and tinned tip started oxidizing quickly.
I'm feeling like I completely wasted $18. How the hell are you supposed to use this thing?
I tried using that chemical tip cleaner/tinner stuff, and it worked great--for about ten seconds. Then the newly cleaned and tinned tip started oxidizing quickly.
I'm feeling like I completely wasted $18. How the hell are you supposed to use this thing?
Also, some fluxes are corrosive by nature and will also destroy tips, as would incorrect temperature setting...
I bought 2 extra tips for my new soldering station, was less than $3 each... I have never liked soldering, until now... haveing the right tools for a job, makes it more like play than work...
I bought 2 extra tips for my new soldering station, was less than $3 each... I have never liked soldering, until now... haveing the right tools for a job, makes it more like play than work...
It's a 60W iron. 60W irons run hotter than, well, you know where. For me, a 25W iron is right for most small electronics, and 35W is plenty for lugs and such. I have a 100W iron for gigantic lugs and for soldering directly to chassis'. I've no doubt it oxidizes in a few seconds with standard solder and flux, probably faster if you're using a newer lead free or water washable solder/flux combo. Put the thing on a Variac or a dimmer to get the power down to what you really need. Tip design also affects temperature, so go to a longer and larger diameter tip, if available.
So I could just wire in one of those dimmers, meant for lamps? I'll try that.
I thought high wattage in irons was more about having "reserve juice" to heat up thicker or less heat-conductive material--and not just about being incredibly hot. Maybe I'm missing a correlation somewhere..
And it begs the question, Why did Hakko make the iron like that? Are all big irons like that? Is everyone with a powerful iron wiring in dimmers, or what? As a product bought off the shelf, sorry, it's simply kind of worthless.
I thought high wattage in irons was more about having "reserve juice" to heat up thicker or less heat-conductive material--and not just about being incredibly hot. Maybe I'm missing a correlation somewhere..
And it begs the question, Why did Hakko make the iron like that? Are all big irons like that? Is everyone with a powerful iron wiring in dimmers, or what? As a product bought off the shelf, sorry, it's simply kind of worthless.
Yep, I agree with Gasho. Branded soldering irons are designed to be used with lead free solder.
Personally I have Antex XS25 iron, & I`m very happy with it.
But much better idea to leave alone all good (regular) soldering irons, and switch to soldering station. The benefits are :
1.No more fried parts.
2.No more destroyed contact pads on PCB`s.
3.No more fried wire insulation.
4.Good soldering station is going to stand-by mode if not used
more than 30min to 1 hour.
Now I`m trying to build one for myself. With atmega8 microcontroller chip, LCD, 3 programmable temperature modes, it will be based on Antex TC25 iron, & 690SD station .
If your iron is not temperature controlled it will get too hot and over heat the tip, 60W is a pretty hot iron !. Once the iron coating of the tip is gone the copper core will start oxidizing. If it is not temperature controlled you need to plug and unplug the iron so it doesn't get too hot. Radio Shack also sells a wattage controller for these types of irons for less than $15
Hakko makes very good professional irons, their 936 is the minimum you should have if your serious about soldering, if you don't want to pay for the Hakko price, there are many clones at half the price and will also fit the Hakko tips:
http://www.hakkousa.com/2006/detail.asp?CID=49&SCID=112&PID=1249&Page=1
Hakko makes very good professional irons, their 936 is the minimum you should have if your serious about soldering, if you don't want to pay for the Hakko price, there are many clones at half the price and will also fit the Hakko tips:
http://www.hakkousa.com/2006/detail.asp?CID=49&SCID=112&PID=1249&Page=1
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The Hakko 936 is a very good iron (several hundred of them are used at my work) but you have to recalibrate the temperature dial every time you change the tip. If you need to change tips often, I recommend a Pace Heatwise or a Weller WTCPT. The only complaint I have about the pace is the skinny handle can get uncomfortably hot. I use the Weller at home, and like it very much.
Slowpogo, you likely did waste $18, as the good irons listed above cost far more than that.
Slowpogo, you likely did waste $18, as the good irons listed above cost far more than that.
Heres my experience with soldering irons:
PACE: very similar to Hakko, but replacement tips and handles are way overpriced.
Metcal: New current models are no longer reliable like to the older generation. I bought 12 last year and all 12 failed within 6 months and plus they cost more than anyone else. A tip costs $75 or more versus under $10 for the conventional tips used in PACE and Hakko.
Weller Ugar: their new digital controlled ones seem to work great with lead free solder, but I am not a great fan of any of their equipment., mainly overprice and outdated technology and riding of their past achievements.
Hakko: Proberly the best make in performance versus price in the soldering and touch-up equipment now in the eletronics industry.
Just remember with all these soldering stations, the price of the handle will cost more that the power unit, so don't buy just the station off eBay and think your getting a good deal then get the handle seperately. The handle alone costs over $150 to replace on the PACE ST-42 while a new station with handles costs only $200.
I picked up a new cloned Hakko 936 off eBay for $24, works just as good as the original, can't beat it for that price !
PACE: very similar to Hakko, but replacement tips and handles are way overpriced.
Metcal: New current models are no longer reliable like to the older generation. I bought 12 last year and all 12 failed within 6 months and plus they cost more than anyone else. A tip costs $75 or more versus under $10 for the conventional tips used in PACE and Hakko.
Weller Ugar: their new digital controlled ones seem to work great with lead free solder, but I am not a great fan of any of their equipment., mainly overprice and outdated technology and riding of their past achievements.
Hakko: Proberly the best make in performance versus price in the soldering and touch-up equipment now in the eletronics industry.
Just remember with all these soldering stations, the price of the handle will cost more that the power unit, so don't buy just the station off eBay and think your getting a good deal then get the handle seperately. The handle alone costs over $150 to replace on the PACE ST-42 while a new station with handles costs only $200.
I picked up a new cloned Hakko 936 off eBay for $24, works just as good as the original, can't beat it for that price !
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