Precision polypropylene 1% caps - any good?

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Per-Anders, these series are magnetic and although 1% etc. etc. not suitable for serious HiFi. The older yellow KS series of Philips/BCComponents are better but one has to be cautious because they also exist with steel wires. Steel wires means not suitable for audio. Ferro materials deteriorate sound in a large degree.

EMZ and Siemens Polystyrene are a lot better but more expensive and hard to find.
 
Re: Re: There's always one!

transducer said:


Bobken,

You have clearly demonstrated your lack of understanding of speaker design, and especially crossover design. I assure you that the driver which I am using (Vifa PL14) is extremely flat in the 800Hz region. The bump in the response is due to the cabinet baffle geometry.

Where do you get your information that a series trap will kill any "slam"? Not that I want to get into a discussion about what creates slam.

As to your dismissal of polypropylene caps, what exactly do you use? Surely you're not using Teflon caps at any decent size to work in series with a tweeter for instance. I'm using Solen 51uF x2, they are adequate for the job.

Ron

Hi Ron,

In my earlier reply to your initial response, I commenced by saying "I mean no offence" but we both know that this response of yours was pedantic and rather antagonistic in content, and it added nothing worthwhile to, nor detracted from, the points I had made. Instead, it seemed to be simply argumentative for the sake of it, or possibly provocative, and that was why my subsequent heading read "There's always one!"

If you read my original post, it will be quite clear that I was making the distinction between using *any* capacitor in the signal path (irrespective of whether it was in a speaker or at the output of an amplifier) or the alternative of using direct coupling throughout, and this was the crux of my earlier comment.

The (adverse) artifacts concerned affect the bass frequencies most noticeably, IME, and as I also said, they are probably due to the consequent phase anomolies due to the introduction of *any* cap here.

I am well aware of the occasional need to use an "equalisation filter" or "response-shaping network" or whatever, as such devices as you describe are commonly called, but perhaps taking the lead from you, I was also being a little facetious in referring to your "trap circuit", as you colloquially put it, as anything resembling "traps" in the signal path, conjure up some rather unfortunate pictures in my mind.

With hindsight, perhaps it would have been better if I had avoided *stooping* so low as to copy your style, and had merely restricted my comments to the salient points. :goodbad:

Having established my reasoning for always avoiding caps in the *entire* signal path (whenever they can otherwise be avoided), the example you came up with was inappropriate, since, although I am not aware of the exact values of LC&R used by you, my guess would be that 95% (or possibly more) of the signal will actually be passing through the choke in your network, rather than through the capacitor, unless here you have come up with something completely unconventional! :goodbad:

Secondly, it is my ears (and those of other loudspeaker designers)which give "me the information that a series trap" will kill any slam in such cases, because using *any* components in the signal path to the voice-coil is ruinous to the dynamics of musical transients, as I thought was well known, certainly to high-end speaker designers, anyway.

Thirdly, rather than "dismiss" as you say, polypropylenes, what I said was that "I don't consider those to be good enough to use in series with any of my drivers", and if you have ever listened to some ATC SM75-150S mid domes (like I use), you will know the reason why.

I wish I could use Teflon caps in my xovers, as they are the finest sounding signal coupling caps I have ever used, but instead I have found an alternative which is almost as good as Teflon sonically, and are very much less costly.

They are MIT RTX series, self-bypassed *polystyrene* and tin foil construction, designed by Richard Marsh, co-author of the seminal "Picking Capacitors", and made by Reliable Capacitors in the USA.

These particular caps are without doubt the finest sounding and most revealing caps (which were readily available) IMO, and are only marginally behind the Reliable series 'Exotica Teflon TFT', sonically.

Most regrettably, as polystyrene is now a worldwide banned substance, they are becoming harder to come by, but I was lucky in purchasing all of the final few large values available from Reliable last year, and there will be no more. It will be a hard act to follow, as they say! :bawling:

"Adequate" is an interesting word, but if I may make the observation with polypropylenes, I have found that the UK made Ansars are a little better sonically than Solens (made in France by SCR), but neither has anywhere near the sweetness and clarity of the MIT RTXs.

Regarding my "lack of understanding of speaker design", since the late '70's I have been responsible for the design and construction of ten different domestic speakers in all, but only one (of the earlier types) has been put into production, so far.

My interests have only ever really been non-commercial, but this folded transmission-line speaker did have a quite reasonable run in the UK having been built under license from me, as the rather attractive fee offered for this was simply too generous for me to decline. :nod:

And you? :)

Regards,
 
cocolino said:


Hi Bobken,
actually some of the best drivers (especially those with very stiff diaphragms) which make excellent woofers require some kind of equalization circuits (for instance a notch-filter or the like) to get rid off ringing at higher frequencies or other frequency deviations.
Usually those circuits are used at higher frequencies and more often than not do not have any signifcant influence on "slam" at the bottom.
To me it`s not clear how You come to the conclusion that those kind of correction filters are basicly bad.



This is a miracle to me. How comes that an inductor in the "return" path can "soften". The inductor is in series with the driver anyway, it doesn`t matter if You put it "before" or "after" the driver.


Hi,

This is truly wonderful because (only the other day) I said in another thread that after drinking a few Carlsberg Special Brews, "I could walk on water", and now it seems I am responsible for yet another "miracle"!

Thanks for the lessons in the first paragraph, but I have already covered this in my earlier reply.:nod:

I do agree that, with the more usual filters of this kind which are used with tweeters and mids, they are unlikely to harm the bass frequencies, but, as I had not suggested that this might be the case (I said "bass"..."bottom end"...and "bass", so nothing could be *more clear*), apart from merely provoking an argument once again, there is absoloutely no merit in mentioning this in your reply to me! :eek:

Regrettably, at this point my sense of integrity overcomes (only marginally!) my wish to be 'revered on high' :angel: , but accordingly, I have to admit that what I earlier said about using components in the return path in speaker X'overs, was not my original idea. (Not that I ever said it was!) :cool:

In fact it was 'stolen' from one of the worlds most astute designers in this field, Stuart Tyler, of Pro-Ac fame, and who has been responsible for many speakers of world-wide acclaim.:nod:

Not only is Stuart world renowned for his own designs, but his Pro-Ac 2.5 just has to be the most 'cloned' design ever, as witnessed by the many (also world-wide) '2.5 Clone Clubs' etc.

Although for many years I have been aware of the sonic improvements to be had from ensuring that all (series) components in X'overs are located in the 'return' path, I don't ever recall seeing anything in print to this effect, anywhere before, but I could just be wrong here as I don't read *everything* that has ever been written and published.

No doubt some overly helpful individual will break his neck in the rush to tell me I am wrong here, if I am, anyway.

When I was originally made aware of the effect, I tried it out on three different speakers I had at the time, and sure enough (and unlikely though I thought it seemed) there was a definite small improvement, especially in the dynamics of the sound.

Not being tramelled by the usual audio dogma which is commonplace, exhibited yet again in this thread, I continued to take advantage of these 'benefits' in my own designs, regardless of my not *fully* understanding the reasons for this difference.

Rather interestingly, the last time I looked on the Internet under 'Pro-Ac 2.5 Clones' (about a year ago), I came across several threads and comments covering this 'unusual arrangement' in the X'over for this speaker, and of course, there were the usual dissenters who (unsurprisingly) had a lot of criticisms of this in principle! :goodbad:

Even more interestingly, exactly as I had found for myself many years ago, after trying both versions, the consensus (then) was that Stuart's original 'orientation' of components was audibly preferable, although at that stage, certainly, no-one had guessed the reasons for this!

Looks like I have really 'let the cat out of the bag' now!!!! :)

Although it makes very little difference to me, personally, I doubt that one could ever arrange a more 'blind' test than what happened then, as none of those involved in the trials had any idea of which way might be better, and many originally thought that the 'correct' way was an error!


It is a very simple test to carry out as any *worthwhile* X'over will reside *outside* of the box anyway, unless maybe it is one of the rather rare potted varieties which already adopt this clever artifice, and whose designers don't wish to share this secret with the rest of us.

Why not try it for yourself, you might just be pleasantly surprised?

Regards,
 
peranders said:
Guys, can't you stay to the topic please. I started this thread about Philips /BC Components and a capacitor type.

Conclusion so far: :up: according to transducer and :yuck: according to Jean-Paul

Hi peranders,

You are quite right. :ashamed:

Sorry, but perhaps if anyone wishes to persevere with any of the other topics, it could be switched by Pinkmouse, to another thread.

Regards,:)
 
Guys, can't you stay to the topic please. I started this thread about Philips /BC Components and a capacitor type.
Yes peranders You`re right - sorry three;)

Originally posted by Bobken
Sorry, but perhaps if anyone wishes to persevere with any of the other topics, it could be switched by Pinkmouse, to another thread.
Bobken,
I realized that my previous comments about woofers, equalizer filters and "higher" frequencies were not at all well expressed in English and therefore You must have misunderstood - sorry for the confusion.
If one of the moderators want to move the parts of this discussion which do not belong here, I`d like to continue and clarify what I meant.

Originally posted by jean-paul
Per-Anders, these series are magnetic and although 1% etc. etc. not suitable for serious HiFi. The older yellow KS series of Philips/BCComponents are better but one has to be cautious because they also exist with steel wires. Steel wires means not suitable for audio. Ferro materials deteriorate sound in a large degree.
Hi Jean-Paul,
this is several times now that I have heard that magnetic leads on components degrade sound.
As I have no clue why and how a few millimeters of magnetic wire can do this, I would really like to learn more about this and would highly appreciate to hear some (eventually even wierd theoretic) explanations.
Anybody?
 
peranders: Get back on Topic, (precision polypropylen capacitors)

cocolino said:

Yes peranders You`re right - sorry three ;)

Hi Jean-Paul,
this is several times now that I have heard that magnetic leads on components degrade sound.
As I have no clue why and how a few millimeters of magnetic wire can do this, I would really like to learn more about this and would highly appreciate to hear some (eventually even wierd theoretic) explanations.
Anybody?
In objective reality and if you cosider facts & measurement
in the material world

NOBODY truthfully can say that those millimeter wires
will have any effect on the resulting soundwave at the output
of a soundsystem
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Subjectively some few would say, that they have empirically proven
experiences it does.
Those few are those who never would like to do Double Blindtests
to verify the impressions of their hearing apparatus & mind.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

I most certainly belong to the group that want to see a logical explanation that fits well in,
before I put my trust in that things are objectively true.

As long as the subjectivists claim they "hear"
but do not want to make any scientific valid investigation
to prove it,
there will be a lot of mistrusts between individuals.
And sorry to say many beginners will try to "hear"
and claim that they also "hear" differences that
sensible people find totally absurd. :xeye: :D :xeye:
-----------------------------------------------------------------

People are social creatures. We get and give influences.
We want to belong to the "right group".
It is same among "audiophiles" as among teenagers wanting
to belong the coolest ones, "the gang", The Big Boys.

This wish to be accepted by others, can even persuade a person into
accepting or even experience things that DOES NOT EXIST.

We, to a degree,
see what we want to see,
hear what we want to hear
experience what we expect to experience.

And we also can read the same text with different eyes,
those eyes we chose to use for the moment.
We can get very different impressions of same writing or music,
even if that writing/book is the same every time.

Go back and reread this tomorrow
and you will see, what I mean.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

This is what the story of the Emperor's New Clothes describes.
Even the CROOKS knows these mechanisms in human nature,
and they do not hesitate to make mponey or other advantages out of this.


/halo - :cool: looks naked with no clothes - and dressed when he have somthing on his body :cool:
If I say I am dressed, tell me if I am fact is not, Please.

Am I right or am I wrong?
Please correct me, if I'm wrong!


=============================================================
Picture shows
The Statue of WAR-POWER
 

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/Wayyyy off-topic..

Halojoy, I generally enjoy your posts on audio (and at least here you seem to know something), but your uninformed politics in general, and your posting of the Statue of Liberty captioned with 'Statue of War Power' are insulting and childish. I suggest you relegate them to the 'Everything Else' forum, or learn something about the US besides what you seem to think you know (which obviously isn't much), ot both.
 
EchoWars said:
/Wayyyy off-topic..
Halojoy, I generally enjoy your posts on audio (and at least here you seem to know something), but your uninformed politics in general, and your posting of the Statue of Liberty captioned with 'Statue of War Power' are insulting and childish. I suggest you relegate them to the 'Everything Else' forum, or learn something about the US besides what you seem to think you know (which obviously isn't much), ot both.
I am glad you react to that satire. About a "holy cow".
It is intended for people of all nationalitities
to react
and re-think.

There are absolutely no bad motives behind
my attachment!
On the contrary, which I hope you understand.
I think the Aussies have more distance
and can easier understand this.
If you associates more to your national symbols
than to the Peace and Understanding
and the work towards that goal - I pity you.
Sorry!

/halo - does not regret
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2002
Hi Per-Anders, :yuck: is a too negative qualification for these caps. I just wouldn't recommend them for audio, for other applications they are perfectly OK. BCcomponents have learnt a lot the last years so it seems because their electrolytics and other caps are really fine for audio ( series 037 and 038 are anyway ). These older blue polypropylene series are probably a remains from their Philips time.If you have the choice for your preamp choose something else.

You ask why ferro leads deteriorate sound. I don't have a clue, I just learnt this through the years when electrolytics got their tinned steel leads. There was a time all parts had tinned copper leads you know. With the introduction of tinned steel leads sound became worse at the same time.
To me it is not a surprise good caps almost always have tinned copper leads. The manufacturers know this as well and still have copper lead series "for audio" that cost quite a bit more than their standard industrial series. Maybe copper is too expensive for mass production nowadays. Today Silmic, Cerafine, Jensen and BG have copper leads amongst other boutique brands/parts.

BTW please do a test and "magnetize" the leads of a component and listen again. I am sure you will hear the difference. No equipment is able to measure any difference but for human ears it is obvious. These phenomena have convinced me that measuring is important but does not guarantee a good explanation of why a device sounds like it does.

Sorry that I can't come up with a scientific explanation. I'll leave that to people that understand these matters well.

It is the same with silver clad copper wire; sound deteriorates but why ? Solid copper is fine, solid silver is fine but used together something really goes wrong. The thermo-couple effect is something that came up in my mind. Silver and copper give a potential difference as other materials do.
 
Copper exposed to the elements won't last. I've got some old speaker wires to attest to this.

Halojoy...
If you associates more to your national symbols
than to the Peace and Understanding
and the work towards that goal - I pity you.
Sorry!
Well, let's see here...a NY taxi, the Empire State Bld, and the Statue of Liberty...and it's not directed at the US? Strange symbols to choose. ...and save your precious pity for someone who needs it. Peace and understanding have their place, but if I am expected to turn the other cheek after thousands of my countrymen have been murdered, then the wait will be a long one.

I won't trash this thread with further responses to this off-topic stuff. If you would like Halo, we can discuss this in the Everything Else forum, which again is where I suggest you limit your propaganda posting to.
 
jean-paul said:
Hi Per-Anders, :yuck: is a too negative qualification for these caps.

The only thing that caught my interest was the 1% thing, nothing else.

I like small components and I wonder if anybody out there knows something about SMD caps. It seems that polyester and polyfenylsulfid (in swedish) are one of the few types available for SMD.

I'm searching for caps with properties like polypropylene but for SMD.

:att'n: Halo, EchoWars and some other guys, skip the political talk please and stay into the topic and if you can't do that start a new thread :att'n:
 
Hi,

it is a mystery to mee too, why parts which contain iron should sound bad.

I use relays which have steel "legs" and I worry, but the relais have pure gold contacts and are in a hermetically sealed housing.

May be it is a difference, if the steel wire is magneticed or not ?

Is it only a problem if the current flows through the steel, or also if steel is nearby ?

What about OPs in TO99 steel can ???

What about the voice coil of a tweeter ? It is inside a very strong magnetic field and very close to lots of iron.

Iron in wires is used to make it more stable mechanical.

I have old Siemens MP caps, the housing is made of 100% iron.

Sound bad ? Never tried.

Philips used theese blue magnetic polyprop caps in the CD304MKII, oh yes...


I had in use lots of meters of some silverplated copper-iron teflonisolated mil spec rf cable an exchanged it for pure copper, sounds no difference to me.

_______________________________________
I would be very glad about some explanation too.
---------------------------------------------------------------


Bernhard
 
peranders said:
I like small components and I wonder if anybody out there knows something about SMD caps. It seems that polyester and polyfenylsulfid (in swedish) are one of the few types available for SMD.
I desided to use polyfenylsulfid, RIFA, (see picture above) as input coupling cap but I have made option for virtually anything. Input at the left in the picture.

I wonder what the DIY potential is for a SMD amp? Very, very small I'll guess but it was fun doing it and this is my first SMD amp.

The chips are OPA627/OPA134/AD8610 and a SMD type of BUF634.

It's emtpy without Halo...
 

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PerAnders -

I am not worthy. But my amp is sorta SMD. I cheated by using EVM board so I only had to "mod" the board; not design it. I added PSU and filter. My Eyes were red when I was done with it.

Sounds surprisingly good. I don't know if it is a SMD thing, but I know it wouldn't stink.

I never hear polyfenylsulfid, can you tell me how it turns out?

T
 
PPS - in English I believe "polyphenylene sulphide". Someone on the board remarked they are supposed to be similar to polycarbonate, which is a rather good dielectric. They have the earmarks of being a good cap: good temperature stability, good high frequency performance.

I am using PPS film caps as low noise regulator reference bypass. They work very well in this application--low leakage and low inductance. I could measure DF and Rs of a couple of manufacturers (I have CDE and Panasonic PPS caps) if anyone is interested.

P.S. AD is using PPS caps in their AD1954 board, but I didn't check to see where.
 
Tomo said:
PerAnders -

I am not worthy. But my amp is sorta SMD. I cheated by using EVM board so I only had to "mod" the board; not design it. I added PSU and filter. My Eyes were red when I was done with it.

Sounds surprisingly good. I don't know if it is a SMD thing, but I know it wouldn't stink.
I thought: when am I going to hear someting from Tomo, the guy who collects headphone amps.

I think it cool with SMD and it's modern too. The only thing I wonder about is what is happening inside a very, very small resistor. Unlinearities, extra noise, artifacts??? I have a hunch of that you can get side effects just because of the size and the design.

Next project will be a SMD phono amp and a discrete and SMD current feedback headphone amp with a design similar like those integrated ones. I will skip the opamp based QRV-03. This design is rather unsuitable if the gain is less than 10. I will make a discrete design but with DC-servo of some kind. I think it's also more fun to design discrete amps, more work!

As you notice my brand is not "as few parts as possible and the performnace not the highest priority". My brand is "I use as many parts I feel like and the pcb's must look nice and no trimming and tweaking".

I think Tomo is the only person in universe (except I) who is interested in SMD DIY. OK some of you DAC guys have to use SMD, otherwise you can forget about the whole thing.

While we are at it, I think the End, millenium edition looks very nice with SMD parts.

www.lcaudio.dk/temil.htm (not availabe in english yet, look at the pictures...)
www.lcaudio.com
 
Well, I think the problem with SMD is really that it is hard to proto. Even if you neglect the cost or aggravation of making up protos, it takes a long time to do schematic capture and layout. With leaded devices you can generally bang together a prototype in less time than schematic capture takes.

I think it is less of an issue for those doing design commercially--there is a big benefit to having done capture and layout when you are interested in making many copies of something. ;)
 
tiroth said:
Well, I think the problem with SMD is really that it is hard to proto. Even if you neglect the cost or aggravation of making up protos, it takes a long time to do schematic capture and layout. With leaded devices you can generally bang together a prototype in less time than schematic capture takes.
I use regular parts when I want to test something and then I convert it to SMD when the circuit is developed enough.
 
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