Hi,
Based on an idea from Jon Risch (very debated) about a more direct connection between speaker cable and amplifier's output wire, I propose, after much hesitation, this modded speaker binding post, in which center shaft is drilled until the actual connecting surface is reached, to allow the passage of the output wire, which can form a knot or be soldered on a loop. Direct contact with the (bare) speaker wire is possible then.
I would have preferred an "all hard plastic" binding post but there are none, to my knowledge. I use a cheap and big binding post from partsconnexion.com (CONNEX- 62002) that makes a tight grip but I dislike the idea of a big amount of brass (or copper) attached to the speaker cable...
The same is much easier to accomplish at the speaker's end, and it has been already discussed.
The diagram shows a conventional and a modded metal binding post. I think it is self-explanatory...
What do you think?
M
Based on an idea from Jon Risch (very debated) about a more direct connection between speaker cable and amplifier's output wire, I propose, after much hesitation, this modded speaker binding post, in which center shaft is drilled until the actual connecting surface is reached, to allow the passage of the output wire, which can form a knot or be soldered on a loop. Direct contact with the (bare) speaker wire is possible then.
I would have preferred an "all hard plastic" binding post but there are none, to my knowledge. I use a cheap and big binding post from partsconnexion.com (CONNEX- 62002) that makes a tight grip but I dislike the idea of a big amount of brass (or copper) attached to the speaker cable...
The same is much easier to accomplish at the speaker's end, and it has been already discussed.
The diagram shows a conventional and a modded metal binding post. I think it is self-explanatory...
What do you think?
M
MadMutt said:Think I'd rather buy some Sssssssnake oil myself.
Come on now, Max is right; brass does sound bad. Haven't you ever heard a bell? Those things are one note wonders!
Yes I can just see all the little atoms with their hammers bashing away on the brass post.
The lead/tin solder joints on the board and wiring connectors slows them down a bit though.
Heaven forbid what happens when the poor buggers hit the oxide layers throught the whole chain.
The lead/tin solder joints on the board and wiring connectors slows them down a bit though.
Heaven forbid what happens when the poor buggers hit the oxide layers throught the whole chain.
You have done well eliminating one connection.
Using the patented Ultra transparent binding post you can eliminate two. If you use two of these on each channel in your system you eliminate four connections and it doubles as an anti theft device.
It has excellent vibration absorbing qualities as well.
Using the patented Ultra transparent binding post you can eliminate two. If you use two of these on each channel in your system you eliminate four connections and it doubles as an anti theft device.
It has excellent vibration absorbing qualities as well.
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OzMikeH said:
Using the patented Ultra transparent binding post you can eliminate two. If you use two of these on each channel in your system you eliminate four connections and it doubles as an anti theft device.
It has excellent vibration absorbing qualities as well.
How much are they?
Are you willing to part with a pair ?
Magura
MadMutt said:
What you want are the harder to get ones.
Made with silicon inserts, they make everything sound much sexier.
Maybe they come in an orgasmic latex version?
Magura
maxlorenz said:At least I provided you a good time
I will produce some solid brass speaker wires and I hope you will buy some
I'm sorry if we offended you, it wasn't anyones intention
But this subject has been beaten to death in so many other threads, and the final conclusion is allways that either you hardwire the whole shebang, or buy some respectable quality plated binding posts, and keep an eye on the connection.
Magura
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