Lead soldering of leadfree parts

richie00boy · 1st September 2007, 03:17 PM

Is it OK to use lead solder to solder leadfree parts? Some of my inventory now is leadfree. I wonder whether I need to switch to leadfree solder - if I do will this solder the leaded parts good as well?

AndrewT · 1st September 2007, 03:58 PM

Hi,
leadfree ends solder well with leaded solder.

I do not recommend using leadfree solder. I have found the few types of lead free that I have tested are not nearly as good at wetting the surface nor for working at as low a temperature.
This seems to be the general finding of others.

richie00boy · 1st September 2007, 04:04 PM

Thanks Andrew. I know Lars Clausen had used some leadfree solder and said it was good, and worked just like leaded solder. But I have a reel of leaded that I might as well use.

BWRX · 2nd September 2007, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by AndrewT
I have found the few types of lead free that I have tested are not nearly as good at wetting the surface nor for working at as low a temperature.

I would echo Andrew's sentiment. The experience I have with circuit assemblies that were produced using Pb-free solder paste is that they are not as easy to rework because the Pb-free solder requires higher temperatures, does not wet as well, and does not always form a good solder joint. For DIY and personal stuff I only have 60/40 SnPb to use and it has always worked great.

AndrewT · 2nd September 2007, 06:30 AM

Hi Bwrx,
if you think 60/40 is OK, then wait till you try 63/37 or even better 62/36/2Ag.
The disadvantage with both these is eroding of copper tips.

smithy666 · 4th September 2007, 12:15 PM

Have you tried soldering large gauge cable that has been tinned with lead free solder?? You need to really wind up the temp (380 Deg+) to get a good connection, even when using lead based solder.
Lead free solder always leaves a dull finish, so it's difficult to tell whether you have a good solder joint, unless you trust your own abilities.
I agree with the others - stick to lead based solders if you can

djQUAN · 4th September 2007, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by AndrewT
Hi Bwrx,
if you think 60/40 is OK, then wait till you try 63/37 or even better 62/36/2Ag.
The disadvantage with both these is eroding of copper tips.

I have always used 60/40 and have a limited supply of 63/37 since I can't find any more of it here. but I really like using 63/37. never thought it erodes tips though.

Bob, W7ETA · 4th September 2007, 10:39 PM

http://science.nasa.gov/headlines/y2...htm?list618755

1st September 2007, 03:17 PM	#1
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	Lead soldering of leadfree parts Is it OK to use lead solder to solder leadfree parts? Some of my inventory now is leadfree. I wonder whether I need to switch to leadfree solder - if I do will this solder the leaded parts good as well? __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

1st September 2007, 03:58 PM	#2
AndrewT diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Scottish Borders	Hi, leadfree ends solder well with leaded solder. I do not recommend using leadfree solder. I have found the few types of lead free that I have tested are not nearly as good at wetting the surface nor for working at as low a temperature. This seems to be the general finding of others. __________________ regards Andrew T.

1st September 2007, 04:04 PM	#3
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	Thanks Andrew. I know Lars Clausen had used some leadfree solder and said it was good, and worked just like leaded solder. But I have a reel of leaded that I might as well use. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

2nd September 2007, 06:30 AM	#5
AndrewT diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Scottish Borders	Hi Bwrx, if you think 60/40 is OK, then wait till you try 63/37 or even better 62/36/2Ag. The disadvantage with both these is eroding of copper tips. __________________ regards Andrew T.

4th September 2007, 10:39 PM	#8
Bob, W7ETA diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2007	http://science.nasa.gov/headlines/y2...htm?list618755 __________________ Still a novice with electronics.


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4th September 2007, 12:15 PM	#6
smithy666 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Sydney	Have you tried soldering large gauge cable that has been tinned with lead free solder?? You need to really wind up the temp (380 Deg+) to get a good connection, even when using lead based solder. Lead free solder always leaves a dull finish, so it's difficult to tell whether you have a good solder joint, unless you trust your own abilities. I agree with the others - stick to lead based solders if you can

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