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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: south east Idaho, Teton Basin
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Anyone know an equivalent for a jfet with the following stamped on the top? It's in a TO-18 case with 4 legs (one leg is to the shield)
S11 0166 710 The S is bigger than the numbers The schematic labels it as a D214. I've searched the web, the Mouser catalog, and this site. No luck with either number anywhere. Thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sure it's a JFET???
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: south east Idaho, Teton Basin
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Woops, it's probably a MOSFET now that I look at the schematic symbol again. It shows S, D, and G at the legs, and a hand-drawn symbol that looks like a MOSFET. It's in an SAE 5000, and is about 30 years old.
Thanks. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Looks like a house number.
If it's a MOSFET and the schematic labels it as "D", like diode, is it wired as a CCS? If so, then you can replace it with many of even ballapark characteristics. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: south east Idaho, Teton Basin
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The D214 is probably a house number (diodes are labeled CR on the schematic), but I thought the S11 0166 710 was a real part number. The device is labeled Q5 and Q6 (one for each channel), and it looks like a gate. It is activated by a switch that allows one to hear what noise is being removed by the impulse filter.
Thanks for the help -- I thought it would be easier than this to figure out a replacement. I am still troubleshooting the unit (lightening hit very near our house recently) and I think I have what I really need on order, and may not have to know a replacement for the fet. I'll bump this up if the need arises. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: south east Idaho, Teton Basin
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Well, I got one channel working with some new IC's, but one of the S11 0166 710 fets is bad after all (they are both the same on each channel). I think they are N-channel MOSFETs, and they seem to carry a signal. The invert switch apparently takes them out of the circuit, but then only the clicks and pops can be heard (but at least they sound the same on each channel).
I could upload the schematic and perhaps someone could suggest a replacement. The power supply is 16 volts, and the shield leg is wired and carries -15 volts (actual measurement, and as the schematic shows). Does anyone want to take a crack at it? |
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