Interesting. Mike, what do you need a 24dB/oct crossover at 13kHz for, the tweeter or to roll off a full range driver? And, what drivers are you using this for?
The difference is less than half an octave...
And it won't be the be all/end all in crossover transparency...
P.S. I've got 2 and a CX2310, so I'm a convert - but there may be a better way...
P.P.S. If you do get a copy, I'd like a look (p-p-p-please!) as I might look at replacing some of the in-path components.
The difference is less than half an octave...
And it won't be the be all/end all in crossover transparency...
P.S. I've got 2 and a CX2310, so I'm a convert - but there may be a better way...
P.P.S. If you do get a copy, I'd like a look (p-p-p-please!) as I might look at replacing some of the in-path components.
Thanks guys.
Cloth ears you guessed right on both counts. Fostex FT17H and FE207E with phase plug. I want the crossover high where hearing isn't so good, but I'll lower the freq if the fullranger starts looking ugly. Perhaps later roll off the bottom end at 150Hz or so and run a couple of sealed 10 inch drivers. I'm getting a reasonably nice amp soon but it's only 25 watts, so easing the bottom end will keep the mids clear (and a bit louder).
These things are surprisingly cheap.
Then again I'm not suprised Jeff has to measure for that price.
Best to steer clear of these then. I'll make my own.
Cloth ears you guessed right on both counts. Fostex FT17H and FE207E with phase plug. I want the crossover high where hearing isn't so good, but I'll lower the freq if the fullranger starts looking ugly. Perhaps later roll off the bottom end at 150Hz or so and run a couple of sealed 10 inch drivers. I'm getting a reasonably nice amp soon but it's only 25 watts, so easing the bottom end will keep the mids clear (and a bit louder).
These things are surprisingly cheap.
Then again I'm not suprised Jeff has to measure for that price.
Best to steer clear of these then. I'll make my own.
OzMikeH said:
It might only be variances between the pots causing the issues. It isn't too bad to measure if you have a laptop and ARTA or similar. My big gripe is that I wasted over two months trying to figure out the strange problems before I decided to measure it. I was using it with a new speaker set-up and it took me a while to suspect it as the problem.
Still, I think a purpose built crossover (or a DCX2496) would be much better.
They're useful (and cheap) as a starting point. And, for me, they're still in use as they fulfil my needs.
Mike, I would have thought that a single (good) cap would be all the crossover that you need for the FT17H. And possibly no crossover, just a 'notch' filter to tame the stuff in the upper area of the FE207E. What do the guys on the full-range forum reckon about the FE207E? Or possibly the High Efficiency forum on AA?
Sounds like an interesting project - what are you using for bass and how are you mounting the FE207?
Mike, I would have thought that a single (good) cap would be all the crossover that you need for the FT17H. And possibly no crossover, just a 'notch' filter to tame the stuff in the upper area of the FE207E. What do the guys on the full-range forum reckon about the FE207E? Or possibly the High Efficiency forum on AA?
Sounds like an interesting project - what are you using for bass and how are you mounting the FE207?
I want to keep the time and phase alignment right so a passive is only a temporary solution.
There is no upper area in the FE207E. that's part of the problem.
Currently in Singular Cabinets. Theres pics about. Also of my filter.
Building some Changs shortly. very cool box
They don't need any help in the bass at normal volumes.
There is no upper area in the FE207E. that's part of the problem.
Currently in Singular Cabinets. Theres pics about. Also of my filter.
Building some Changs shortly. very cool box
They don't need any help in the bass at normal volumes.
I had to pot a reply here as I also use the CX3400, but I must be extremely lucky?? as i do not seem to have had any problems the units were on sale at a really good price a couple of years ago.
Not as cheap now but "cheap and cheerful " solution? I would say yes and good fun to play with, excellent for DJ and parties
Not as cheap now but "cheap and cheerful " solution? I would say yes and good fun to play with, excellent for DJ and parties
Looking at this:
http://www.doctorproaudio.com/doctor/temas/ref_fletcher.htm
(Fletcher Munson curves.)
I'd actually be better off with my crossover down at about 8.5k where the typical hearing is less sensitive.
I'm going to buy a 25 watt tube amp shortly for the main amp. Looking at the HF energy content of typical music I should be able to get away with a couple of watts for the tweeter amp. I might order a T-amp if they behave themselves in the extreme high end.
Where to buy the CX3400 Behringer in Oz?
http://www.doctorproaudio.com/doctor/temas/ref_fletcher.htm
(Fletcher Munson curves.)
I'd actually be better off with my crossover down at about 8.5k where the typical hearing is less sensitive.
I'm going to buy a 25 watt tube amp shortly for the main amp. Looking at the HF energy content of typical music I should be able to get away with a couple of watts for the tweeter amp. I might order a T-amp if they behave themselves in the extreme high end.
Where to buy the CX3400 Behringer in Oz?
try these links
http://www.allansmusic.com.au/Product.aspx?p=53281
http://www.allansmusic.com.au/Product.aspx?p=53890
Still reasonably cheap
Ted
http://www.allansmusic.com.au/Product.aspx?p=53281
http://www.allansmusic.com.au/Product.aspx?p=53890
Still reasonably cheap
Ted
The unit I borrowed had minor (but significant) level discrepancies when both channels were set to the same level by the dial markings: 2-3db differences in some positions. Additionally, the crossover frequencies between the two channels were as much as 25% different when the dials were set to the same position.
This isn't necessarily easy to hear in a multichannel system until you fix the issue. These crossovers are great for what they are, but if I were leaving one in my system long term or evaluating other system components or changes, the problems need attention.
This isn't necessarily easy to hear in a multichannel system until you fix the issue. These crossovers are great for what they are, but if I were leaving one in my system long term or evaluating other system components or changes, the problems need attention.
I agree it's tough to hear what's wrong - until it's corrected! I set each channel's dial set to the same position as best as I could at what I thought would be 500Hz. When I measured one channel was actually crossed at 700Hz and the other was crossed at nearly 900Hz! I measured the unit alone with a laptop soundcard - no amps in line to mess things up.
If you have the patience to measure when you want to change something, this isn't a problem. The unit performs fine when properly configured by measurement. I agree that my sample may have been out of spec, but the tolerances of typical cheap pots aren't fantastic so this could be typical.
If you have the patience to measure when you want to change something, this isn't a problem. The unit performs fine when properly configured by measurement. I agree that my sample may have been out of spec, but the tolerances of typical cheap pots aren't fantastic so this could be typical.
I decided it's not for me. I downloaded the manual, the delay adjust is for the low channel only. I want time adjustment in the highs as well. I'm doubtful the adjustment is fine enough for 10kHz wavelengths, it's 41 steps from zero to 2ms.
I'll measure my speakers then build a line level 24dB/oct XO to suit, Delay circuit (if required) can be incorporated in the XO box at the same time. I may even stick a T amp in there for the tweeters.
I'll measure my speakers then build a line level 24dB/oct XO to suit, Delay circuit (if required) can be incorporated in the XO box at the same time. I may even stick a T amp in there for the tweeters.
I have the CX3400 and it's horribly noisy. I have to keep the input gain knobs down a lot and send it a higher level signal to compensate to get an acceptable SNR. It's not my receiver or amp.
thinking of replacing some op amps. Don't feel like taking it apart until I know what I'm doing. Anyone do this, or at least got pics of its guts?
thinking of replacing some op amps. Don't feel like taking it apart until I know what I'm doing. Anyone do this, or at least got pics of its guts?
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.