Is this capacitor worth keeping?

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was trying to locate some info on the net requarding an unknown capacitor. You all work with this stuff all the time so i figured i would ask.
The reason i want to know is to determine if its junk or if its worth something.

anyway the only thing i have to go with is a description.

its black. It is labled
Sounder
10uf 100V
NP 85 degee C

I also have what look to be ceramic resisters. that are labled

5W 6Ohm J

Any help would be appreciated. thanks.
 
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Joined 2005
Re: thanks to the mod.. :)

cadbury8 said:
thanks to the mod for placing this in the electonics and parts section. :)

No problem :)

To answer your question about the cap, I've never heard of a brand named Sounder before. Even so, a non brand name cap doesn't mean it's junk. Did you plan on using it for something specific?

Those resistors you have are power resistors. They are called sand cast resistors.
 
thanks for the info guys.
right now the caps are part of a crossover. Just more found junk. hehe. I just didnt know what they were. if i ever did throw them away i just wanted to know i wasnt ditching say fifty dollar caps when they could be used by someone but since they are only worth about .50 cents then its no big deal.

Sand cast resistors. Cool... thanks for the info. They are also a part of the crossover possibly connected to the multi-tap transformer somehow. gonna have to see if i can figure out the circuit board.

who knows i might be able to put some of the stuff to use. :) I love free junk. hehehe. I got a collection of all kinds of junk from work. so my second bedroom probably looks like your basement conrad. lol.
 
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Hi Cal,
"Sand cast", or "bathtub" resistors as they were known as, are in fact wire wound.

Whether the parts are in series, or in "bypass" makes no difference. They are all in the signal path.

Hi tinitus,
With only 10uf there should be no need to use NP electrolytics
The value means nothing. What is important is that they are in an AC circuit and therefore must be non-polarized types.

-Chris
 
Cal Weldon said:
I like to use wire wound resistors, air core inductors and poly caps for the series connections and sand resistors, iron core and elec's for the by-pass.

Not sure if there's any sense in that though. :)

yes the crossover contains air core inductors. two of them. One small coil on a on a nice clear plastic round reel. The other is on a long square reel. The red sure is pretty.

The crossover also has two lamps on the bottom of it. I assume those were ment to protect the tweeter from overloading.

It also has a yellow thing on the bottom with a wire coming out both ends. it is labled F 4.0J MT 100V. One of the lamps is connected to this yellow thing. they are both connected in series.

anyway a couple more questions. Is there any way to test the transducers to find out what their specs are so they may be used in the future? Also what does the J stand for on the resistor? 5W 6Ohm J.

here is a dumb arze question for ya all. do you have to build a crossover for a specific voltage or wattage? meaning will a simple crossover work for 1000 watts as well as 10 watts? or does everything have to be scaled accordingly?
 
anatech said:
Hi Cal,
"Sand cast", or "bathtub" resistors as they were known as, are in fact wire wound.

Whether the parts are in series, or in "bypass" makes no difference. They are all in the signal path.

Hi tinitus,

The value means nothing. What is important is that they are in an AC circuit and therefore must be non-polarized types.

-Chris

tow of the 5w 6OhmJ bathtub (i like that.) sand cast resisters are in series connected to the two lamps. So it looks like this:

lamp > resister > resister > lamp > yellow thing F4.0 J MT 100V > resister bathtub sand cast 5W 3R3OhmJ > + side of tweeter. Its also picking up the small coil at the 3Ohm resister along with the cap.
 
cadbury8 said:


Also what does the J stand for on the resistor? 5W 6Ohm J.

here is a dumb arze question for ya all. do you have to build a crossover for a specific voltage or wattage? meaning will a simple crossover work for 1000 watts as well as 10 watts? or does everything have to be scaled accordingly?

The J on both the cap and resistor most likely means 5% tolerance. In standard practice F = 1% J =5% k = 10%.

A crossover designed to handle 1000 watts can be used for 10 watts but not the other way around. The voltage and power ratings need to reflect the signal they are processing.

One side note from experience; you might not want to use a higher voltage rated cap (than necessary) in a lower signal voltage applications.

In order for a cap to handle higher voltages, the dielectric must be made thicker. Because an electric field on one plate causes a current to flow in the other plate of the cap, the plate distance as well as the dielectric material (the normal focus with capacitors) can have an audible effect on the low level signal - because the field strength drops off rapidly with distance.

In speaker applications this causes a softening of the sound at lower levels and there appears to be a volume threshold where things sort of clear up.


Regards, Mike.
 
No, i dont have pics. sorry. I know it would make things easier as my explanations are kind of lacking. Two minutes with pics and you guys could draw a scematic of the thing and tell me what it is doing exactly. lol.

thanks to you all for the information.

Why would anyone use a multi-tap transformer with a switch to change between wattage in a crossover? 3.75w 7.5w 15w 30w all at 8ohms.

next question completely off topic is this:
has anyone ever soldered a new cap onto a motherboard of a computer? i had one blow on my motherboard. The side of it is brown and the top looks like the top of an expanded ballon. hehehe. It probably isnt possible.
 
The yellow caps in question probably Bennic Sounder.

As for soldering or in correct term replacing bulging electrolyte capacitor; it's possible. With consideration you got good soldering skill as removing the tin from motherboard is quite tricky. Failed on first tries due overheat on solder tip which removed the copper on board also :headbash:
 
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