Tech Tricks - - how to remove multiple pins? - Page 2

AuroraB · 29th June 2007, 02:39 PM

Get a few rolls of solder wick, in different dim's...wet the joint with some fresh tin, and then wick away......
It is the most gentle way if you want to preserve the PCB.
Even desoldering irons are pretty tough on the PCB,and can cause delamination of the copper tracks, and all the special tips are quite expensive..
Trust me.... I've tried them all.

mobyd · 30th June 2007, 05:32 AM

For really awkward parts (especially relays) I cut a small piece of 1mm copper sheet stock just big enough to cover the pins, drill holes in the pin pattern (just only big enough for the pins to be visible), heat this up with paint stripper gun and tin liberally with solder then place it on the board, keeping the heat up with a 100w iron on the back. Part comes off toot sweet and time board is exposed to roasting is minimised. As soon is part is off, remove copper plate. For things like 40 pin DIL patterns etc, no holes necessary, it just has to fit snugly between the pins.
M

cuibono · 30th June 2007, 07:21 PM

hey mobyd, that last idea was pretty sharp.

I've been using a desoldering iron (Radioshack), its simple and it works, it just always leaves a little solder, and then the pin sticks to the board. So I have to do round-robin, moving each pin out a little at a time....

Nordic · 1st July 2007, 08:43 AM

yep... stiky pins suck... I tend to keep a thumnail available to wriggle th eoffending pin, while the solder sets... so it stays loose.... Luckily I don't use soldermasks, so it tends to be easy to just apply some flux and flow the solder away with gravity, and maybe a few ticks against the desk.

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29th June 2007, 02:39 PM	#11
AuroraB diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..	Get a few rolls of solder wick, in different dim's...wet the joint with some fresh tin, and then wick away...... It is the most gentle way if you want to preserve the PCB. Even desoldering irons are pretty tough on the PCB,and can cause delamination of the copper tracks, and all the special tips are quite expensive.. Trust me.... I've tried them all.

30th June 2007, 05:32 AM	#12
mobyd diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Auckland	For really awkward parts (especially relays) I cut a small piece of 1mm copper sheet stock just big enough to cover the pins, drill holes in the pin pattern (just only big enough for the pins to be visible), heat this up with paint stripper gun and tin liberally with solder then place it on the board, keeping the heat up with a 100w iron on the back. Part comes off toot sweet and time board is exposed to roasting is minimised. As soon is part is off, remove copper plate. For things like 40 pin DIL patterns etc, no holes necessary, it just has to fit snugly between the pins. M

30th June 2007, 07:21 PM	#13
cuibono diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: southren cali	hey mobyd, that last idea was pretty sharp. I've been using a desoldering iron (Radioshack), its simple and it works, it just always leaves a little solder, and then the pin sticks to the board. So I have to do round-robin, moving each pin out a little at a time....

1st July 2007, 08:43 AM	#14
Nordic diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2005	yep... stiky pins suck... I tend to keep a thumnail available to wriggle th eoffending pin, while the solder sets... so it stays loose.... Luckily I don't use soldermasks, so it tends to be easy to just apply some flux and flow the solder away with gravity, and maybe a few ticks against the desk.

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