Groundside Electrons

[BudP]

So long as you connect the loops to just one plug of whatever kind, anything will work just fine.

Bud

[Guild]

Originally Posted by GeneZ

Is there any reason not to simply connect the loops to the binding posts of the amp and speakers by using a banana plug? I normally connect my speakers by spades.

This is what I have done with satisfactory results.

[Robert F]

Originally Posted by uncle_leon

Thanks Bud I have actually read about EnABL before. I think I will be buying a kit sometime soon. What put me off so far is that I couldn't find one complete, consistent guide how to do it. Or do you get one with the kit?

Anyway, back to the crazy electron pool - is there any particular type of magnet wire that is preferable over others? I have these types to choose from:
Enamelled Copper Magnet Winding Wire
And alternatively silk covered 99.99% silver wire.

Has anyone done any research in this particular direction? If not, I suppose I can buy a few different types, make identical loops and try them pro bono publico. And bono privato of course, because I'll get to choose the best one

Also, what about different loop sizes? Any solid data here?

Early on I tried VH Audio cotton covered silver which I think is 28ga, but only had enough to do loops of about 25 strands. My later efforts using enamelled 36 ga copper using 100 + strands was far superior, but I put this down to the greater number of finer strands rather than the quality of materials.

Rob

[Robert F]

Errata to my last post, in fact I used only 6-8 strands of the cotton sleeved silver in my trials.

[GeneZ]

Originally Posted by BudP

So long as you connect the loops to just one plug of whatever kind, anything will work just fine.

Bud

Curious... I believe I read that you mentioned that litz with the thread dialetric dulled the sound. Correct? Is that in regards to using litz for speaker wires in general? Or, in regards to the loop only?

Thanks, Gene

[BudP]

Type 2 Litz wire, with dielectric coatings on every wire, is not enough by itself. Using the Litz, in speaker cables, interconnects and Ground Control (electron pools +) will all need a bit more dielectric. Woven cotton tube is not enough, but the plastic plus cotton tubes have too much and it is the wrong kind. You need low constant, low threshold material and shrink tubing is perfect.

Bud

[GeneZ]

Originally Posted by BudP

Type 2 Litz wire, with dielectric coatings on every wire, is not enough by itself. Using the Litz, in speaker cables, interconnects and Ground Control (electron pools +) will all need a bit more dielectric. Woven cotton tube is not enough, but the plastic plus cotton tubes have too much and it is the wrong kind. You need low constant, low threshold material and shrink tubing is perfect.

Bud

Thanks, Bud.

Not sure if I have type one, or two. I purchased it years ago from a speaker designer who had it in bulk.

For my speaker runs? It appears I should get some long heat shrink tubing and pull off the cotton wrap. You are saying its only needed on the + side? The negative side can be left alone? I am listening nearfield and the speaker runs are only about four feet a side. I believe that is type 1, but I am not sure.

With other speakers that I had internally rewired in the past, I ended up doing the following. The litz I have is around 10 gauge. I needed to separate the cable into its smaller bundles within the wire. That way I could fit the wire into the holes found on the crossover board. I put heat shrink on those wires. I had no idea it would be a good thing.

I have some litz in a box with the cotton still on it that I had coated with liquid rubber.The kind of stuff you use to dip pliers into to give them grip handles. Looks like that was not a smart idea. At the time I figured it would offer better protection to the longer runs of litz running to the speakers across the room. I can always strip that off when need be.

So glad I found this forum.

Thanks, Gene

[GeneZ]

This is a very long thread that started quite some time ago. I noticed various lengths of loops were being described, depending upon the application. I did not see any recommended length for the speaker and amp terminals. Is it critical for an exact length? Just loop a wire and solder both ends together, then shrink wrap? How long the loop? Sorry. But its a very long thread. I am sure this was answered somewhere. I can't find for the amp and speaker terminals.

Thanks, Gene

[GeneZ]

Tinning litz. Did it years ago. No longer have what was recommended in liquid flux.

Here are a few liquid flux products I can order online.

Can someone please, tell me which they think would be the best for tinning litz using a solder pot? Or, they all good?

Thanks..


Liquid Solder Flux, 2 oz. | 20-1100 (201100) | Distributed By MCM


Liquid Solder Flux, 2 Oz Bottle | eBay


Browsing Store - Liquid Rosin Solder Flux, 2 oz

[BudP]

I would use the third one and cut it to a weak tea color with 99% pure isopropyl alcohol. This will ablate the coating on 100% of the wires in coated Litz wire.

True type 2 can be told by there being three twisted bundles that make up the whole twisted bundle. Type 1 Litz is just a large twisted bundle. The reason for using the stuff is it is a low proximity effect conductor. Takes laying it across a power transformer core before it will pick up anything or be affected by external capacitive coupling to unwanted substances, like Nylon carpet etc.

If your Litz has cotton selving on it that's great! If you have the equivalent of around 18 gauge solid core in circular mils then use very short pieces of shrink tube, like 3 pcs 0.6" long for a 6 inch long piece of wire, folded into a loop and soldered together. If you look on 6 moons for the review of Ground Control one of the "individuals" decided to cut one open and show how it was made, for free. I don't have anything good to say about that person, but I don't bother cursing idiots either, knowing they just cannot help themselves. In any event you will see quite clearly how they are made.

Bud