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Old 7th August 2007, 11:07 AM   #101
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Sorry I have magnepans, so I guess it won't work. But surely the 1.20 trick is not a QM effect? Or is it? If so, how?

I thought when you said that boundary conditions and macro events you were referring to some QM effects.

btw I did not read any offense into your comments. I am curious and just asking questions.
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Old 7th August 2007, 08:11 PM   #102
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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my exposure to wave functions and boundary conditions were in quantum mechanics. But the solutions themselves are not explicitly used in QM. They work in "classical" (Macro) events as well (2nd order partial differential equations in 2 or 3 dimensions if I remember). The functions themselves are the same, just the wave forms may not be, nor the solutions.

Box type speakers would be the type to use the "$1.20 trick", even "junk" speakers, or borrow a buddy's? This is a quick an dirty experiment that requires no special tools or technical prowess to do.

QM effects work in the "micro world" and translate to the "macro world", but are not as obvious as the underlying priciple because they seem to fly in the face of "common sense". the Manboni process, and the EnABL process are really just teryting to kill the dispersion effects at the edge of the loudspeaker cone or membrane. The same ideas can be applied to the speaker enclosure (I thought I saw a picture of a box speaker completely treated with the EnABL process). The "$1.20 trick" is a simplification of this and quick to demonstrate.

now the Electron pool is another story. I'm still scratching my head about this one.
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Old 7th August 2007, 10:31 PM   #103
scottw is offline scottw  United States
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Was going to try this out by twisting up strands of 30awg magnet wire I had on hand. I've used a lot of mag wire in my DIY projects and have a pretty good technique for removing the coating and tining the ends but this is just one strand at a time. When I twist 64 strands of this stuff and try to tin the ends it is anything but pretty.

What is the right way to tin the ends of Litz type wire? I'm gonna guess most of you doing this have solder pots (which I don't have).
Bigger iron? Flame? Flux? Do you fan the ends and do the strands more or less individually then re-twist?

Thanks,

Scott
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Old 8th August 2007, 12:31 AM   #104
soongsc is offline soongsc  Taiwan
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Quote:
Originally posted by scottw
Was going to try this out by twisting up strands of 30awg magnet wire I had on hand. I've used a lot of mag wire in my DIY projects and have a pretty good technique for removing the coating and tining the ends but this is just one strand at a time. When I twist 64 strands of this stuff and try to tin the ends it is anything but pretty.

What is the right way to tin the ends of Litz type wire? I'm gonna guess most of you doing this have solder pots (which I don't have).
Bigger iron? Flame? Flux? Do you fan the ends and do the strands more or less individually then re-twist?

Thanks,

Scott
I would try using the small handheld solder pots. Kill two birds with one stone. Do use the solder for pots as well.
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Old 8th August 2007, 12:47 AM   #105
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default a way to do this....

I haven't done this yet, but this is what I am planning on doing:

wind the magnet wire to some lenth, such that 1/2 the circumference equals the length you desire. Do not cut anything until you have the required number of turns. use crokus cloth or sandpaper and sand the varnish of the two free ends. Straighten the loops and use a thin width of chrokus cloth and pull it between the windings, exposing the copper. Tin the ends and the windings together. I'll make a sketch if that will help.

you could also just fold it back and forth to whatever length you need, and bare the ends and solder...
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Old 8th August 2007, 01:00 AM   #106
BudP is offline BudP  United States
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Scott,

Quote:
What is the right way to tin the ends of Litz type wire? I'm gonna guess most of you doing this have solder pots
Yep, solder pots. Since this is #30 and is likely single poly nylon (SPN on the spool ) you can burn the insulation and then either lightly scuff with sand paper (800 grit or finer) or use a razor knife to scrape the carbon off. After scuffing, almost any solder iron will allow you to tin the ends, slowly

Otherwise a 150 watt or bigger solder iron, the big 3/4" or 1" jobs, will do the tinning without pre-abrasion activities. Just keep a constant reload of the solder bubble on one huge surface of the tip and go for it.

There are small solder pots available for pretty cheap prices and that will save time, fingers and blue air, from yelling ouch and other complementary words, as your finger tips melt onto the wire....

Or you can PM me for the price for a pair of ready to go Litz wire pieces and for a bigger price I will put them in the pretty cotton sleeves and you can stick em on your speaker cabinets ground terminals. Then you can legitimately claim voodoo magic to your friends.

These are the ones that will work, if any of them will, but the price for two pieces of wire, in cotton bags, is kinda steep. You can likely get a solder pot and a bar of good ole' 60/40, non RoHS stupidity, solder, for an equivalent amount and then all future worries are over... Looks like a Hexacon or Tenma pot will run you $90 or less for a tiny one suitable for tinning wire, so about twice what the ready made wires in cotton would cost when a bar of solder is included.

Bud
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Old 8th August 2007, 01:15 AM   #107
aerius is offline aerius  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by scottw What is the right way to tin the ends of Litz type wire? I'm gonna guess most of you doing this have solder pots (which I don't have).
Bigger iron? Flame? Flux? Do you fan the ends and do the strands more or less individually then re-twist?
I think I ended up with 24 strands of magnet wire in my loops, tinning the ends wasn't too hard even without a solder pot. After I finished twisting the wires together, I used a butane mini-torch to burn the enamel off the ends, after which I sanded off as much of the carbon residue as I could using 600 grit sandpaper. After that, a generous amount of flux on the wire and a big blob of solder on my soldering iron did the trick.
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Old 8th August 2007, 02:49 AM   #108
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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It is easy... and applies to tinning all leads... dip the end of the lead... allready twisted.... in flux....... I use the cheap stuff from the hardware store that plumbers use... then solder ... The flux wil draw the solder over the coper like capiliry action... it flows easier like water...
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Old 8th August 2007, 09:17 AM   #109
OzMikeH is offline OzMikeH  Australia
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What happens if you get a large diameter single layer inductor, file gently along one side, strip your -ve cable by the same length, lay it across the filed area and solder it on? you have a whole series of round shorted loops in parallel.
I suppose you could put the whole thing in a cotton sock or whatever insulator you prefer.
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Old 8th August 2007, 09:25 AM   #110
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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Ok, this is my understanding of what was inside the photograph of one of the mcgafters...

Please confirm or explain again....

Mike, think you will have regrets when the insurance company refuses to cover your house if it burns down... "and this this sock does what mate?"
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