sigh there goes my dream of 94db efficiency.....how much of an efficiency drop are we talking about?1db? 3db?*shudder*
and the two ports are going to be flared a bit (1/2 in radius, maybe more if i can fit it) and they will be rear ported. IIRC at 100watts they peaked somewhere around 20m/s. for the most part, even when i get my monoblocks built, they will never see more than 200 watts.
and the two ports are going to be flared a bit (1/2 in radius, maybe more if i can fit it) and they will be rear ported. IIRC at 100watts they peaked somewhere around 20m/s. for the most part, even when i get my monoblocks built, they will never see more than 200 watts.
Cal, since youve apparantly used the diea long enough, noticed a serious beneficial impact, and have madespeakers for your friends ( i am assuming) using the same technique, ill give it a shot. Something tells me this amplifiers high freq isnt a problem. and if it dies ti dies, nothing to heart shattering. and if the pieo blows it blows, once again 2$ and its fixed.
so i think ill do it
do you have MSN messenger? you seem to always answer my posts with good info and it would be really nice to have a quicker and more interactive way of reaching you.
so the only questions that remain are
how much does a first order crossover lower sensitivity?
how should i wire the piezos? paralell after the coil?
and what will be the nominal impedance of these guys?
so i think ill do it
do you have MSN messenger? you seem to always answer my posts with good info and it would be really nice to have a quicker and more interactive way of reaching you.
so the only questions that remain are
how much does a first order crossover lower sensitivity?
how should i wire the piezos? paralell after the coil?
and what will be the nominal impedance of these guys?
How about using a 15" Dayton Classic woofer
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-325
With a stacked pair of Tangband W23-1287S 2x3" drivers?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-830
That gives you a huge woofer with real bass, and the mid/tweets can cross low enough to make it work. All the drivers will cost $180, so its a bit more expensive.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-325
With a stacked pair of Tangband W23-1287S 2x3" drivers?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-830
That gives you a huge woofer with real bass, and the mid/tweets can cross low enough to make it work. All the drivers will cost $180, so its a bit more expensive.
im not looking for "real bass" (that is extending below 40hz) and im not really into the idea of spending so much for a pair of speakers that arent going to be treated very nicely. 180 is out of my budget, i was trying to keep these below 200$ CAD.
these arn;t the speakers that i will listen to at home. I have a pair of energy c-1s right now and will soon be building a pair of d27 veritas, and if most of the peopel listneing to these thing that an 18" two way sounds good, then i dont think theyll mind my deisgn.
also i have an atlas 15, and im toying with the idea of building a tempest horn for it, 97db efficiency down to 27hz. so if i build that i DEFINATELY dont need anything below even 50hz.
prosound drivers that i could find in my price range were either not suitable to achieve low enough bass in a reasonable box size, or were too expensive. so i decided to overcome the lack of efficiency found in "home" drivers with surface area.
these arn;t the speakers that i will listen to at home. I have a pair of energy c-1s right now and will soon be building a pair of d27 veritas, and if most of the peopel listneing to these thing that an 18" two way sounds good, then i dont think theyll mind my deisgn.
also i have an atlas 15, and im toying with the idea of building a tempest horn for it, 97db efficiency down to 27hz. so if i build that i DEFINATELY dont need anything below even 50hz.
prosound drivers that i could find in my price range were either not suitable to achieve low enough bass in a reasonable box size, or were too expensive. so i decided to overcome the lack of efficiency found in "home" drivers with surface area.
Stephan,
No I don't have an MSN Messenger handle. You can email if you like, just click on my name.
Before you go buying some new coils, try some experiments (if you have stuff laying around) and see if you even like the effect, don't take my word.
A passive XO will hog a little power but I wouldn't worry about. Unless you get into 4th order stuff, you should be fine.
Wire the piezo and woofer in parallel, nothing on the woof. Coil on the piezo in series just like you would with a cap. Try different values of coil as that affects the sound a great deal. 5mH seems to come to mind as good but do the testing yourself so you know for sure.
The nominal impedance will be the same as the woofer. Piezos are a natural capacitor so the amp doesn't read it as a split in the impedance.
The only thing I have read as a comment about the coil on the piezo is that it may cause some amps to oscillate. I don't know, it's never caused a problem for me but you should check with those in the know. To me, I can't see how it can be a problem as you often run a cap and coil in series on a midrange. In this case the piezo is the cap.
No I don't have an MSN Messenger handle. You can email if you like, just click on my name.
Before you go buying some new coils, try some experiments (if you have stuff laying around) and see if you even like the effect, don't take my word.
A passive XO will hog a little power but I wouldn't worry about. Unless you get into 4th order stuff, you should be fine.
Wire the piezo and woofer in parallel, nothing on the woof. Coil on the piezo in series just like you would with a cap. Try different values of coil as that affects the sound a great deal. 5mH seems to come to mind as good but do the testing yourself so you know for sure.
The nominal impedance will be the same as the woofer. Piezos are a natural capacitor so the amp doesn't read it as a split in the impedance.
The only thing I have read as a comment about the coil on the piezo is that it may cause some amps to oscillate. I don't know, it's never caused a problem for me but you should check with those in the know. To me, I can't see how it can be a problem as you often run a cap and coil in series on a midrange. In this case the piezo is the cap.
poifect, itll be 4 hms then, just what i wanted
thanks for all the advice come mid june ill have a pair of these in operation, and ill make a detailed diary for it on how to make a cheap loud party speaker(cause im sure im not the only teenager out there whose looking for a low SQ high volume cheap party speaker).
thanks for all the advice come mid june ill have a pair of these in operation, and ill make a detailed diary for it on how to make a cheap loud party speaker(cause im sure im not the only teenager out there whose looking for a low SQ high volume cheap party speaker).
Somewhat on the same track as you, however I plan on building a pair of the Decware Imperials.
I am currently looking for a cheap 15 or 18 inch sub-midwoofer to go up to a single large compression tweeter.
www.decware.com
navigate to speakers and then the Jensen Imperial
Does anyone have an ideas for a good woofer/tweeter pair. Cheap is the main thing. I plan on making my own horn lense to fit ontop of the imperial best.
I am currently looking for a cheap 15 or 18 inch sub-midwoofer to go up to a single large compression tweeter.
www.decware.com
navigate to speakers and then the Jensen Imperial
Does anyone have an ideas for a good woofer/tweeter pair. Cheap is the main thing. I plan on making my own horn lense to fit ontop of the imperial best.
Stephan,
I just grabbed a piezo from down in the archives and a handful of coils to fool around with. Without anything else hooked up to that channel, a 2mH, choke seemed to sound about the best. 5mH wasn't what I was looking for (too loud, highs being lost at that point), but I'm not certain about the overall effect as I didn't have anything else hooked with it.
I just grabbed a piezo from down in the archives and a handful of coils to fool around with. Without anything else hooked up to that channel, a 2mH, choke seemed to sound about the best. 5mH wasn't what I was looking for (too loud, highs being lost at that point), but I'm not certain about the overall effect as I didn't have anything else hooked with it.
Here's a bit of inspiration.
http://kofoedmejer.squarespace.com/display/ShowGallery?moduleId=364576&galleryId=20106
I this design there's a crude horn made of wood in front of the 1" titanium-dome. The Horn gives a good boost in the high-mid-region which means that the woofer can be crossed over a bit lower.
Regards TroelsM
http://kofoedmejer.squarespace.com/display/ShowGallery?moduleId=364576&galleryId=20106
I this design there's a crude horn made of wood in front of the 1" titanium-dome. The Horn gives a good boost in the high-mid-region which means that the woofer can be crossed over a bit lower.
Regards TroelsM
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