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Old 30th March 2006, 10:13 PM   #21
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hmm i wasnt thinking impedance curve i was more thining like nominal....or does that not apply to piezo systems?

also will i actually get 94db of efficiency? dont first order series crossovers lower efficiency?
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Old 30th March 2006, 10:18 PM   #22
baggins is offline baggins  United Kingdom
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As I understand it ALL Passive x-overs lower efficiency and the higher the order the more they lose .
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Old 30th March 2006, 11:16 PM   #23
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sigh there goes my dream of 94db efficiency.....how much of an efficiency drop are we talking about?1db? 3db?*shudder*

and the two ports are going to be flared a bit (1/2 in radius, maybe more if i can fit it) and they will be rear ported. IIRC at 100watts they peaked somewhere around 20m/s. for the most part, even when i get my monoblocks built, they will never see more than 200 watts.
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Old 31st March 2006, 02:11 AM   #24
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Guys,
I don't have an explanation, I'd like someone to sort it out before it becomes a recommendation. I'm just saying that I like what it does to a piezo.
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Old 31st March 2006, 02:54 AM   #25
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Cal, since youve apparantly used the diea long enough, noticed a serious beneficial impact, and have madespeakers for your friends ( i am assuming) using the same technique, ill give it a shot. Something tells me this amplifiers high freq isnt a problem. and if it dies ti dies, nothing to heart shattering. and if the pieo blows it blows, once again 2$ and its fixed.

so i think ill do it

do you have MSN messenger? you seem to always answer my posts with good info and it would be really nice to have a quicker and more interactive way of reaching you.

so the only questions that remain are

how much does a first order crossover lower sensitivity?
how should i wire the piezos? paralell after the coil?
and what will be the nominal impedance of these guys?
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Old 31st March 2006, 03:40 AM   #26
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How about using a 15" Dayton Classic woofer

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=295-325

With a stacked pair of Tangband W23-1287S 2x3" drivers?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=264-830

That gives you a huge woofer with real bass, and the mid/tweets can cross low enough to make it work. All the drivers will cost $180, so its a bit more expensive.
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Old 31st March 2006, 03:53 AM   #27
cotdt is offline cotdt  United States
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find a big woofer with natural rolloff and a midtweeter, and no xovers.
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Old 31st March 2006, 04:21 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by cotdt
find a big woofer with natural rolloff and a midtweeter, and no xovers.
Do you have any recommendations?
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Old 31st March 2006, 04:36 AM   #29
cotdt is offline cotdt  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by sdclc126


Do you have any recommendations?

i have a xoverless 3-way using drivers that are no longer available. if i would do it today, i would get one of those 12" dayton woofers and a tangband 2" midtweeter (also sold at PE).

for good party speakers i would use prosound drivers and a woofer with at least 14mm xmax.
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Old 31st March 2006, 02:19 PM   #30
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im not looking for "real bass" (that is extending below 40hz) and im not really into the idea of spending so much for a pair of speakers that arent going to be treated very nicely. 180 is out of my budget, i was trying to keep these below 200$ CAD.

these arn;t the speakers that i will listen to at home. I have a pair of energy c-1s right now and will soon be building a pair of d27 veritas, and if most of the peopel listneing to these thing that an 18" two way sounds good, then i dont think theyll mind my deisgn.

also i have an atlas 15, and im toying with the idea of building a tempest horn for it, 97db efficiency down to 27hz. so if i build that i DEFINATELY dont need anything below even 50hz.

prosound drivers that i could find in my price range were either not suitable to achieve low enough bass in a reasonable box size, or were too expensive. so i decided to overcome the lack of efficiency found in "home" drivers with surface area.
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