how to properly wire a crossover & 2 amps. - Page 3 - diyAudio
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Old 25th February 2014, 08:23 PM   #21
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Crossover In The Mix.png
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Old 25th February 2014, 08:25 PM   #22
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Crossover In The Mix.png
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Old 25th February 2014, 10:06 PM   #23
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Oh, you seem to be using the BBE crossover as a splitter.

"However either way I have to use the crossover freq control knob to bring out all the high mid low from each speaker"

Unless the BBE has a mode to turn the crossover off which I am not aware of, it is not be possible to get full range audio from the output jacks.

Attached is how a crossover would traditionally be wired with two pairs of speakers. Each speaker must have dedicated high & low inputs and outputs. This will require re-wiring your speakers. Do not simply splice the outputs of the amplifiers, as this will destroy the amplifiers.
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File Type: jpg Crossover In The Mix correct.jpg (156.0 KB, 32 views)
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Last edited by Thetwinmeister; 25th February 2014 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 25th February 2014, 10:20 PM   #24
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Otherwise, if you don't want to re-wire your speakers, you can eliminate the BBE to get full range audio to each speaker by simply splitting the line level output from your mixer. Not perfect, but cheap and more correct than the original wiring.
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Old 25th February 2014, 11:23 PM   #25
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Rewiring your speakers for bi-amplification would be the best way to utilize the BBE, and if you do that I'd suggest using the smaller amp for the horns and the larger for the 15" drivers. I'm having a hard time believing these amps are truely 2ohm stable meaning you can drive them to full output for hours on end without them shutting down, but I got no hands on with them so who knows. And this won't leave anything for the guitar bass cab(18+10") but honestly I don't think you'll miss it when you have everything else setup correctly.
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Old 26th February 2014, 05:18 AM   #26
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thetwinmeister: I had it wired like the traditional way but without the high and low parallel in and outs. I had used settings on the crossover to get all the speakers playing and sounding good thru the BBE. If I were to re-wire the speakers, I would have to by-pass there built in crossovers, correct?
Further, the pt3300 amp has a line level out that I can go into the pqa5100 amp with.
conanski: I been pushing the speakers even how I have it wired now and these things push out alot at low 2 ohm. Great sound and without getting over heated.

The problem with re-wiring the speakers is that I would have to match up the wattages and wire them properly to there ohms.
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Old 26th February 2014, 03:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xshanesworldx View Post
I had it wired like the traditional way but without the high and low parallel in and outs.
That method effectively shorts the outputs of your amps so don't do that again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xshanesworldx View Post
If I were to re-wire the speakers, I would have to by-pass there built in crossovers, correct?
Correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xshanesworldx View Post
Further, the pt3300 amp has a line level out that I can go into the pqa5100 amp with.
You don't need it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xshanesworldx View Post
The problem with re-wiring the speakers is that I would have to match up the wattages and wire them properly to there ohms.
Yes.. but also for power handling too. You don't have much choice so this is what I suggest. All 15's will get connected to the 5100, two boxes(4 drivers) on each channel for approx 600w to each driver. All the horns will get connected to the 3300, these drivers are likely 8ohm so each will get about 225w which should be plenty. The crossover frequency also has to match the passive which is likely somewhere around 1.5khz to 2khz, the spec sheet should mention this.
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Old 26th February 2014, 03:41 PM   #28
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How about if I didn't want to change the original speaker wiring, but bypass it only when I want to split cabinet into high and low. Maybe some kind of switch, that I could install to be able to use original box wiring, or to shut that down, if I plugged into a separate high and low.
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Old 26th February 2014, 04:01 PM   #29
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Yes that is possible, you need a 4P4T switch or two DPDT switches. The 20uF capacitor you see in the drawing is protection for the relatively fragile high frequency driver should it accidentally get connected to a fullrange signal.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by conanski; 26th February 2014 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 26th February 2014, 04:04 PM   #30
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What type of connectors are the inputs? What is the 20uf? What is S1's?
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