Don't use "foam" if at all possible. It decays, outgasses nasty stuff, and is not terribly effective at lower frequencies.
The use of tar like substances on wood surfaces is only going to be partially effective at damping transmissions through the wood, it will reduce them at HF, but this is a LF box, so it will have very limited benefit. Again, they outgas hydrocarbons and dry and harden too over time.
Cements are trowel. Icky sticky.
You are better off applying "Ice Barrier" material to the inside walls, imo. No icky sticky, limited outgassing, and very deadening in terms of transmission, also adds mass. The only issue is if it will stick or not, and if it is the adhesive self stick, or the heat stick type. I have been told that the torch applied heat stick on is not to be used for speakers, but I dunno. Have a fire extinguisher handy and work outside if you go for the propane torch application method.
I'd not use this this stuff, I prefer stuff that goes on with either water based contact cement, and/or a staple gun... something with fibers as the basis...
_-_-bear
The use of tar like substances on wood surfaces is only going to be partially effective at damping transmissions through the wood, it will reduce them at HF, but this is a LF box, so it will have very limited benefit. Again, they outgas hydrocarbons and dry and harden too over time.
Cements are trowel. Icky sticky.
You are better off applying "Ice Barrier" material to the inside walls, imo. No icky sticky, limited outgassing, and very deadening in terms of transmission, also adds mass. The only issue is if it will stick or not, and if it is the adhesive self stick, or the heat stick type. I have been told that the torch applied heat stick on is not to be used for speakers, but I dunno. Have a fire extinguisher handy and work outside if you go for the propane torch application method.
I'd not use this this stuff, I prefer stuff that goes on with either water based contact cement, and/or a staple gun... something with fibers as the basis...
_-_-bear
FYI, the "NU-FOAM" I'm refering to is not foam. It's like scotchbrite with thin strands, similar to semi-rigid fiberglass, but not as rigid. Its pretty dense.
Last edited:
This stuff is likely, by merely looking at it, and having some of the standard poly batting around, is likely nice at higher frequencies and virtually invisible at any freq below 1kHz or maybe even higher.
For a bass, mid bass or lower midrange speaker I'd want something that was absorptive, effectively absorptive. Mostly one wants to eliminate high amplitude reflections or more accurately attenuate.
_-_-bear
PS. maybe with 4-6" lining depth, the stuff might be somewhat effective.
For a bass, mid bass or lower midrange speaker I'd want something that was absorptive, effectively absorptive. Mostly one wants to eliminate high amplitude reflections or more accurately attenuate.
_-_-bear
PS. maybe with 4-6" lining depth, the stuff might be somewhat effective.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.