CrossOver

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Hi Guys,I am new on here,kinda have an issue and I am hoping that you could help me here.I want to add a crossover to my system,which consist of 2,2 way mains boxes, 2 sub-woofers and 2 amps. My question is since they are 2 way boxes with one signal input,is it possible to use a 2 way crossover because all the ones I have looked at are suggesting separate signals and amps for low,mid and highs.

Thanks
EddieL
 
eddie
if your 2 way boxes have passive x-overs a 2 way x-over between your subs and 2 way(tops) would be an upgrade but triamping would certainly be a further enhancement but would require a third power amp
what boxes do you have?
and what sort of thing are you doing with it all, live sound dj or something else
 
Thanks for the reply Turk.I am doing live sound dj. Yes they do have passive x-overs,They are Zebra DJZ-S215s which consist of 2,15" woofers and a Horn tweeter,the subs are Seismic Audio 18" Subwoofers. Are you suggesting that I separate the horns and the woofers in the tops and get a 3rd amp?
 
that would depend more on your budget and your ears. triamping would allow you to tailor your system to the different rooms/halls/clubs you'd encounter much faster and easier even before applying EQ to your rig i don't know your skill level as far as re wiring your Zebra boxes but if this interests you i can certainly help i'll try to get more info about these speakers you have some 2 way boxes sometimes have provisions for biamping which would make the possibility an easy reality triamping would require a three way stereo x-over another budget consideration you'd have to make
 
Ok. I have ordered a another amp for my subs, so I will have 3 amps anyway.Would just have to get the cross over.As for rewiring the boxes should not be a problem,I am a trained electrician with some electronics knowledge. I pulled the speakon and 1/4" connection plate on the boxes and the 2 speakon and 2 1/4 jacks are wired parallel so no biamping,just daisy chaining. These zebras are 8 ohm, so possibly the 2 15" woofers are 4 ohm wired in series. Let me know what you find and what is required to make the change. I really appreciate your help.
 
eddie
i guess your budget's better than i thought
and the fact that your a trained electrician should make this a snap for you
if your box already has speakon connectors you'd simply need to identify which type they come in a few varieties 2 circuit (4 pole) 3 circuit (6 pole) 4circuit (8 pole) i'm guess your have the 2 circuit 4 pin types which can be easily turned into pin 1+2 low (or mid in three way-the two 15's) and pins 3+4 your horn bypassing the internal x-over or you could rewire the 1/4 inch jacks for the same purpose making one low(mid) and the other high(horn) again bypassing the x-over
i think by now your starting to get the picture
i'll back up a bit for a second because i don't know if you had a chance to listen to your system and speakers yet but just so you can become familiar with the difference in the inprovement we'll be making i'd say start by running your tops (the 2 15's +horn) stock off one of your amps then even though you don't have a cross over parrallel your signal lines using either y jacks or parrallel input jacks on the back of your amp to the second amp and run your subs off that now using input levels on your amp while running some tunes bring up your sub amp even though your applying a full range signal to the sub just allow yourself to get acquainted with what thats like it will really help you appreciate what the x-over will do and give a better understanding of how to set up and tune your x-over later
by chance did you purchase your equipement from the nipponamerica website i went there looking for info on the Zebra DJZ-S215 which only gave pretty basic info
 
I got the picture you are painting.I have been using it like what you have suggested and I don't like how it sounds,that's why I want to go with the active x-over.I bought the Zebras locally here on the island.Been on the website too but nothing much there. I need to know the rating of the speaker components in the zebras so I can know what I am dealing with.
 
ok sorry i just didn't know where you where at in the hole process
lets dig in and see if we can get some clues as to what we're dealing with have you opened the patient up? hopefully there's model numbers on these driver which might help us chase down some specs but based on the website specs for the box at 800 watts program it puts a ballpark guess at 400watts a driver
 
No problem. The specs on the box says 600 watts Rms,1200 watts peak. Looked inside the box and there are no labels on the speakers. Okay,so let's say 300 watts a driver. What do you think the horn would be? As for the ohms I will put my multi-meter on it.
 
probably not much more then 60 to 100 watts so refining our guesstimates the 15's could be 250 rms each and that's not knowing what the realitive efficency of these drivers (1 watt/ 1 meter spl rating) another clue would be looking at the wire size in the x-overs coils in the box that gauge would help determine what was intended. while your poking around see if you can confirm if there wired series or parallel i think it will turn out parallel and count how many coils and caps on the x-over that tell us just how much separation between bands we've got 6 db/octave 12 etc values on the caps too oh and double check to see if there isn't a number stamped on the frame maybe on one of the ribs supporting the magnet the other place might be a small label on the magnet that you might not see if your looking through the opening in the back panel an inspection mirror can come in handy
 
Homework:D.... It will be a while before I reply,have to get the boxes.There are in storage where I play. Will do as you suggested and inbox you with my findings,will also try to get pics of the x-over in there.
oh,I forgot to mention,the specs says 8 ohms so may be they are wired in series.
 
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Hey Wg, It says it's a 2" aluminum voice coil.So what do you think this will handle?

2" aluminum VC can handle about 40 watts above 1.5 KHz. A 100W amp is appropriate. 200W or more is ok if you use fast RMS limiting at 20-40 watts. If you're not using DSP consider using one of those tungsten filament limiters made for protecting horns. Or a 12V turn signal lamp -one of the threads around here had recommendations for which type #.
 
2" aluminum VC can handle about 40 watts above 1.5 KHz. A 100W amp is appropriate. 200W or more is ok if you use fast RMS limiting at 20-40 watts. If you're not using DSP consider using one of those tungsten filament limiters made for protecting horns. Or a 12V turn signal lamp -one of the threads around here had recommendations for which type #.

Hmmmm,interesting. Will check it out and give it a shot.
 
2" aluminum VC can handle about 40 watts above 1.5 KHz. A 100W amp is appropriate. 200W or more is ok if you use fast RMS limiting at 20-40 watts. If you're not using DSP consider using one of those tungsten filament limiters made for protecting horns. Or a 12V turn signal lamp -one of the threads around here had recommendations for which type #.

Wg,do you know the correct name for that tungsten limiter thing you mentioned?
 
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