Hey all, newb here makin my first post. Im looking for some ideas on building a PA sub. I currently have a mackie swa1501 that is loudish but rolling off at 45 Hz just doesn't cut it for me. I use it mainly for house parties and small dj gigs, but it also serves as the sub in my ghetto HT (where 45 Hz is just pathetic).
My budget is pretty much whatever I can sell the Mackie for, so probably between $450 and $500. This has to be enough for the driver(s) and amp.
Ideally I would want super high quality sounding subwoofer with loads of sub 30 Hz bass and high SPL. Unfortunately I am a poor college student and am gonna have to go with loud over high quality lol.
Priorities:
1) flat to 30 Hz at LEAST (25 or even 20 would be oh so much more satisfying for the HT aspect)
2) enough volume to slay small house parties and give a solid 55 - 70 Hz thump
3) Not too obscenely difficult to build
Ive been thinking about a behringer EP2000 for a cheap ~1000w bridged to 4 ohms. I know behringer is questionable, but I've read some good things about the ep2000/4000 amps and they are oh so cheap.
That leaves $150-$200 for the driver(s). Im completely in the dark as far as driver selection so really any input is appreciated.
For the enclosure I'm also very up in the air. I know folded horns can get very loud, but I've read they have trouble below about 40 Hz. I've read good things about the extension of the house wrecker from decware, but also that it doesn't get that loud and isn't the best idea because its not driver specific. Idk, really I'm open to anything that will work.
Also, would I need to buy a x-over if running this from a full-range xlr input?
Lastly, do they even make PA sub drivers with 4 ohm impedance or am I stuck with 8 for a single driver build? Thanks again in advance and lemme know if I am grossly underestimating the cost of what I want.
My budget is pretty much whatever I can sell the Mackie for, so probably between $450 and $500. This has to be enough for the driver(s) and amp.
Ideally I would want super high quality sounding subwoofer with loads of sub 30 Hz bass and high SPL. Unfortunately I am a poor college student and am gonna have to go with loud over high quality lol.
Priorities:
1) flat to 30 Hz at LEAST (25 or even 20 would be oh so much more satisfying for the HT aspect)
2) enough volume to slay small house parties and give a solid 55 - 70 Hz thump
3) Not too obscenely difficult to build
Ive been thinking about a behringer EP2000 for a cheap ~1000w bridged to 4 ohms. I know behringer is questionable, but I've read some good things about the ep2000/4000 amps and they are oh so cheap.
That leaves $150-$200 for the driver(s). Im completely in the dark as far as driver selection so really any input is appreciated.
For the enclosure I'm also very up in the air. I know folded horns can get very loud, but I've read they have trouble below about 40 Hz. I've read good things about the extension of the house wrecker from decware, but also that it doesn't get that loud and isn't the best idea because its not driver specific. Idk, really I'm open to anything that will work.
Also, would I need to buy a x-over if running this from a full-range xlr input?
Lastly, do they even make PA sub drivers with 4 ohm impedance or am I stuck with 8 for a single driver build? Thanks again in advance and lemme know if I am grossly underestimating the cost of what I want.
How big of a box do you want to deal with?
Pro sound subs and HT units have different design goals, EQ and trading up to better 18" powered sub might be the best option in your situation.
Horns will work better in multiples and require processing in addition to being heavier than a generic reflex box.
Pro sound subs and HT units have different design goals, EQ and trading up to better 18" powered sub might be the best option in your situation.
Horns will work better in multiples and require processing in addition to being heavier than a generic reflex box.
PV lowrider in their largest suggested box. Keep the power down to around 600W (less money on the amp, more on the driver). Large low tuned pro 18's are only suitable for light duty PA work, but it would do anything a cheap powered sub will. And of course you can hit it with more power if you high pass appropriately. The downside is a bigger box than you really 'need'.
Folded horns are a catch-22. You need a 'critical mass' of subbage to get down to 30 Hz, and that's about 20 cubic feet just to break even on SPL per watt. To get FLAT to 30, that figure goes up (one box won't do it). If you're only considering one 18, and not willing to spring for a B&C or RCF, you're not there yet.
Folded horns are a catch-22. You need a 'critical mass' of subbage to get down to 30 Hz, and that's about 20 cubic feet just to break even on SPL per watt. To get FLAT to 30, that figure goes up (one box won't do it). If you're only considering one 18, and not willing to spring for a B&C or RCF, you're not there yet.
The lowrider does look like a very good driver for the money. How do I go about designing a box for it? I said 10 cu. ft. but I guess I can do more if it just gets taller and the footprint isnt much bigger than 2x2. and any recommendations on a cheap amp that can do 600-800 watts at 8 ohm?
Also I asked earlier about needing a crossover. Not sure how to low-pass the full range signal.
Also I asked earlier about needing a crossover. Not sure how to low-pass the full range signal.
With ten cubes you can do a double 18 and really move some air...
I would'nt go larger than the medium box if it is moved around at all.
http://www.peavey.com/assets/literature/manuals/80304779.pdf
I would'nt go larger than the medium box if it is moved around at all.
http://www.peavey.com/assets/literature/manuals/80304779.pdf
Poor college student = strong back, weak wallet. To maximize bass under this constraint, use the largest box you can get through the door and the driver that works in it. Been there, done that, bought the T-shirt. If you're DJing house parties and *don't* have a $10,000 system they are much more impressed with good music and deep bass than just plain loud.
If I could have afforded 5kW Crowns and wall of JBL's back then it probably would have ushered in the end of the world. Sometimes its a good thing there are limits.
Yes! Now were talkin!
And I completely agree, hence abandoning the mackie and my top priority being gettin down to 30 Hz.
I think we may have been friends had I been there for that apocalypse.
Anyway, how do we feel about a xls 1000 (found some for 220ish used) powering a low rider 18 in the large box mr. doom linked? http://www.peavey.com/assets/literature/manuals/80304779.pdf
Building the box, is there any restrictions on dimensions or does it just have to multiply up to 9 cu. ft.? If you can't tell, I've never done this before haha. Thank both of you for all the help. And being new here and to forums in general, am I doing anything incredibly newbish in my posts or am I okay
Round ports = 6" PVC. Or a larger number of 4".
MDF, No. Use Araucoply or an equivalent. MDF cabs are too heavy and tear up. If by some miracle the birch ply you're getting at HD has got 13 plys, is void free and flat as a pancake, use it. It has happened, but usually you get garbage. Sticker shock on real Baltic Birch will send you back to Home Depot, unless you've got a friend with a wholesale license.
Back when I was a poor college student I used ordinary BC pine plywood. It does work for regular rectangular boxes, but you'll probabaly end up having to recut at least one panel. And if you get a hidden void you can end up with a buzz that you can't find and can't get rid of. Araucoply is easier to work with and the aggravation saved is worth the extra $15.
The XLS1000 is about as low as I'd go on the amplifier quality scale. I'd be looking al older, heavier, more reliable amps for now. Not necessarily new.
MDF, No. Use Araucoply or an equivalent. MDF cabs are too heavy and tear up. If by some miracle the birch ply you're getting at HD has got 13 plys, is void free and flat as a pancake, use it. It has happened, but usually you get garbage. Sticker shock on real Baltic Birch will send you back to Home Depot, unless you've got a friend with a wholesale license.
Back when I was a poor college student I used ordinary BC pine plywood. It does work for regular rectangular boxes, but you'll probabaly end up having to recut at least one panel. And if you get a hidden void you can end up with a buzz that you can't find and can't get rid of. Araucoply is easier to work with and the aggravation saved is worth the extra $15.
The XLS1000 is about as low as I'd go on the amplifier quality scale. I'd be looking al older, heavier, more reliable amps for now. Not necessarily new.
sir
i think in live audio normally 40Hz -45Hz bass guitar 'E' string can produce & bass bin can reproduce this rang frequency in out door PA i think OK increasing number of bin for both side also cloud give good deep bass effect because non of the single bass bin can reproduce full length 40Hz of bass frequency it need minimum 4 bass bin to do the job. if you move for 18"PA woofer the same. folded horn good deep bass construction is pain and heavy
but still worth the 25-30Hz deep bass
tri this link P.Audio System Co., LTD
P.Audio System Co., LTD i can attach pdf file to this. is not much for you their are some calculation to make be for construction bass bin, bass driver 'Parameters'.
thanks
nuwan
I may be late to the party, but check out the Dayton reference HO 15" ($150 @ PE right now). Roughly 5 ft3, two 6" ports tuned to around 30hz for PA use, then plug one port for HT. Power with a bridged behringer nu3000 ($255 @ amazon). Model it.
I like the 3/4" 5-ply birch from home depot ($45 per sheet), coat box internally with asphalt roofing mastic.
I like the 3/4" 5-ply birch from home depot ($45 per sheet), coat box internally with asphalt roofing mastic.
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