I just finished a BFM Titan 48 using the 3015LF driver. My build is around 30" wide and I'm very very impressed with subs performance in a DJ capacity and this is with only a single corner loaded Titan 48. I've been lurking on these forums and other sites and apparently the BFM subs are not highly regarded.
So in my limited pro sound experience if the Titan 48 is considered mediocre then I would be very interested in finding another design that fits the following criteria. I am already impressed with the Titan 48 so anything better would be amazing. Keep in mind that the majority of my gigs are indoors. Outdoors would be once in a blue moon.
1. Cost effective to build $500 or so in materials would be ideal
2. Relatively easy to transport
3. Good SPL figures between 50-100 Hz. I really want the thump and punch in your chest found in most EDM and Hip Hop music. I want energy more than extension down to 30Hz.
4. Easier and quicker to build than the Titan 48 would be great too.
5. Efficient with amp usage. XTi 2000 running a max of 2 subs in parallel would be the most I would run.
So in my limited pro sound experience if the Titan 48 is considered mediocre then I would be very interested in finding another design that fits the following criteria. I am already impressed with the Titan 48 so anything better would be amazing. Keep in mind that the majority of my gigs are indoors. Outdoors would be once in a blue moon.
1. Cost effective to build $500 or so in materials would be ideal
2. Relatively easy to transport
3. Good SPL figures between 50-100 Hz. I really want the thump and punch in your chest found in most EDM and Hip Hop music. I want energy more than extension down to 30Hz.
4. Easier and quicker to build than the Titan 48 would be great too.
5. Efficient with amp usage. XTi 2000 running a max of 2 subs in parallel would be the most I would run.
So basically you're happy with what u have, but u want to tear everything down anyways? Lol
I've always found bills designs to be well engineered. The main advantage of a TH is potentially smoother response and more output at very low frequencies. But according to your post, that isn't a problem with your existing system.
Id advise u to keep what u have, but I know it's fun to upgrade.
I've always found bills designs to be well engineered. The main advantage of a TH is potentially smoother response and more output at very low frequencies. But according to your post, that isn't a problem with your existing system.
Id advise u to keep what u have, but I know it's fun to upgrade.
Haha pretty much. I love bass and can't get enough. I'm also an avid DIY'er so I sometimes enjoy the project more than the end result. After reading a bit on these I'm seeing impressive SPL charts for the TH designs.
I am extremely happy with my Titan 48 and for all intents and purposes it's more sub than I need for 99% of my personal gigs clubs/parties/weddings. But the bass addict inside of me wants to squeeze out more volume if it's available to be built and still be used with my Crown XTi amps. I need to be able to run these off of a standard 15amp 120V breaker without killing the circuit. Right now I've pretty much limited my amps to about 50V max between 45-100 Hz through my DriveRack PA+. OmniTop 12's are crossed at 100Hz.
I still have to build subs for the DJ studio, Living Room, and another one for my car. I was considering building Table Tubas for the Studio and Living Room and a Tall Auto Tuba for the car. But I would love to try other designs out for fun.
I am extremely happy with my Titan 48 and for all intents and purposes it's more sub than I need for 99% of my personal gigs clubs/parties/weddings. But the bass addict inside of me wants to squeeze out more volume if it's available to be built and still be used with my Crown XTi amps. I need to be able to run these off of a standard 15amp 120V breaker without killing the circuit. Right now I've pretty much limited my amps to about 50V max between 45-100 Hz through my DriveRack PA+. OmniTop 12's are crossed at 100Hz.
I still have to build subs for the DJ studio, Living Room, and another one for my car. I was considering building Table Tubas for the Studio and Living Room and a Tall Auto Tuba for the car. But I would love to try other designs out for fun.
The BFM stuff has a bit of a cult following, which can gang up and crush anyone who believes anything else could be better for a specific application.
I posted a question over there asking if 4 DR250s would be good enough for me, and that I planned on using 4 C/E/X FT30 tapped horns from here (I've changed my mind to the TH18 instead since then). Basically I got chewed out for even considering using something other than a T48. After being told that the flat response of the FT30 was a bad thing, and having BFM (intentionally or unintentionally?) insult me, along with a slew of other questionable advice, I gave up on that forum and just decided to go with the diyaudio design.
I find it difficult to be told that the T48 was better than the simpler, flatter tapped horn from here, from someone who stands to gain $15 if I heed his advice.
It's not that I think his stuff is bad, in fact I am building 4 DR250's right now, it's just that I think it's not the absolute best thing possible for everyone.
As far as your question goes you should look at the TH18, it seems to fit your requirements perfectly. It's pretty easy to build too. With a $500 budget you could get the best possible driver for it that has the highest excursion capability. It gives approx 40hz extension, which is low enough for 95% of all music. Its also about a cubic foot smaller than the T48
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/190635-th-18-flat-35hz-xoc1s-design.html
I posted a question over there asking if 4 DR250s would be good enough for me, and that I planned on using 4 C/E/X FT30 tapped horns from here (I've changed my mind to the TH18 instead since then). Basically I got chewed out for even considering using something other than a T48. After being told that the flat response of the FT30 was a bad thing, and having BFM (intentionally or unintentionally?) insult me, along with a slew of other questionable advice, I gave up on that forum and just decided to go with the diyaudio design.
I find it difficult to be told that the T48 was better than the simpler, flatter tapped horn from here, from someone who stands to gain $15 if I heed his advice.
It's not that I think his stuff is bad, in fact I am building 4 DR250's right now, it's just that I think it's not the absolute best thing possible for everyone.
As far as your question goes you should look at the TH18, it seems to fit your requirements perfectly. It's pretty easy to build too. With a $500 budget you could get the best possible driver for it that has the highest excursion capability. It gives approx 40hz extension, which is low enough for 95% of all music. Its also about a cubic foot smaller than the T48
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/190635-th-18-flat-35hz-xoc1s-design.html
Yes I have experienced the cult attitude with several other forums that are product related. It's unfortunate and that is why I came here to get outside perspectives on the BFM stuff.
Now in regards to the TH-18 it seems to be in the 1000W and beyond range for power handling. I don't think my Crown XTi 2000 will handle that much power. Right now my amps are good up to about 55-60V per channel. Depending on speaker resistance I don't think I can hit the 1000W level cleanly.
Also while perusing that very lengthy discussion a couple of questions popped into my head:
1. How critical is the cone correction to the response of the sub
2. How forgiving is the design in regards to angles and basic carpentry skills. I feel that I did a fairly good job building my T48, but I'm no pro level cabinet builder. I know that BFM designs are somewhat forgiving to user error.
3. Is there a list of recommended drivers?
Now in regards to the TH-18 it seems to be in the 1000W and beyond range for power handling. I don't think my Crown XTi 2000 will handle that much power. Right now my amps are good up to about 55-60V per channel. Depending on speaker resistance I don't think I can hit the 1000W level cleanly.
Also while perusing that very lengthy discussion a couple of questions popped into my head:
1. How critical is the cone correction to the response of the sub
2. How forgiving is the design in regards to angles and basic carpentry skills. I feel that I did a fairly good job building my T48, but I'm no pro level cabinet builder. I know that BFM designs are somewhat forgiving to user error.
3. Is there a list of recommended drivers?
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Titan 48 User
DJslik I too was chewed alive there at BFM I have 2 Omni12TB and 4 T24 24" 2XBP102. I asked about tapped horns since over the years 7 to be exact I was in a sub shootout in NYC 2004 of all I've heard including BASSMAXX with a blown driver Danley Tapped horn 15 were the smoothest, low distortion bass I've heard in years including Funktion-One F218. Over the years the DIY community has dished out some great designs on here and I too a DJ with a small business will be building the TH18. Simple to build and alot of assistance on here. You do not need the full 1000 watts to make it work and sound right so I wouldn't worry about how much power you need.
DJslik I too was chewed alive there at BFM I have 2 Omni12TB and 4 T24 24" 2XBP102. I asked about tapped horns since over the years 7 to be exact I was in a sub shootout in NYC 2004 of all I've heard including BASSMAXX with a blown driver Danley Tapped horn 15 were the smoothest, low distortion bass I've heard in years including Funktion-One F218. Over the years the DIY community has dished out some great designs on here and I too a DJ with a small business will be building the TH18. Simple to build and alot of assistance on here. You do not need the full 1000 watts to make it work and sound right so I wouldn't worry about how much power you need.
Also since I already have the Titan 48 can someone give me a good explanation of how to setup a frequency response chart. I think it would be useful as a method of comparison.
I have the Dayton Audio Mic that is used with the Drive Rack PA+ for Auto EQ settings.
From my basic understanding it goes as follow:
1. Place subwoofer outdoors ie my backyard
2. Place Mic 1 Meter away (not sure about height above ground)
3. Measure 2.83V at fluke meter for each frequency
Equipment I own:
1. Dayton Audio Mic
2. Pioneer DJM-909 Mixer
3. Laptop
4. REW Software
Do I need a separate sound card or will my built in mic input be sufficient?
How do account for the mixer's mic input level outs?
I have the Dayton Audio Mic that is used with the Drive Rack PA+ for Auto EQ settings.
From my basic understanding it goes as follow:
1. Place subwoofer outdoors ie my backyard
2. Place Mic 1 Meter away (not sure about height above ground)
3. Measure 2.83V at fluke meter for each frequency
Equipment I own:
1. Dayton Audio Mic
2. Pioneer DJM-909 Mixer
3. Laptop
4. REW Software
Do I need a separate sound card or will my built in mic input be sufficient?
How do account for the mixer's mic input level outs?
This thread? Those guys are funny. You're lucky to have such a great project to work on.
BillFitzmaurice.info - View topic - A few questions...
I've been reading some FAQ's on the REW forum and I think my DJM-909 should do the trick. I've got a couple coats of Duratex to get on the sub before I can get the sub out to test.
I've noticed that the Titan 48 seems to do best between 60-100 Hz which is what I'm shooting for in terms of chest thumping goodness. The only downside to the sub is it's large size. Pack space has become my number one concern for subs moving forward.
I've noticed that the Titan 48 seems to do best between 60-100 Hz which is what I'm shooting for in terms of chest thumping goodness. The only downside to the sub is it's large size. Pack space has become my number one concern for subs moving forward.
Thats the one.
Yeah I am lucky haha
if your interested check out my build thread. I've got an update coming in a few hours. I started on one of the th18 subshttp://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/213897-senior-project-build-thread.html
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