plz help crown xti4000,6000 cerwin vegas sl36 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Live Sound > PA Systems

PA Systems A forum for discussion of all parts of a sound reinforcement or DJ system: loudspeakers, mixers (desks) etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 21st June 2012, 01:49 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Default plz help crown xti4000,6000 cerwin vegas sl36

hi this is what i have

1 crown xti 4000 running 2 jbl jrx 125/tr225

1 crown xti 6000 running 4 cerwin Vegas sl36

1 furman pl pro 20amp power conditioner

1 DRPA+

1 bbe 822i

1 dbx 215

1 numark preamp pa5 pro

now what i need help with is my tops they sound bad i know dual 15 are bad but what is good for my set up cause i know im to bass heavy and i need the right xover and limiter setting for the pa and any other info or input would be nice thanx
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2012, 01:13 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ohio
You don't really need the DRPA+, all the processing can take place in the XTi power amps. Download Band Manager from the Crown site, with that software you can fully configure the amps. The 6000 would have a bandpass output set up from 35hz to 100hz and the 4000 would have a bandpass output from 100hz to 19,000hz. For the 35hz high pass on the 6000 go with a BW filter with a 24 db cutoff, the 100hz low pass go with a LR filter and 24 db cutoff. On the 4000 the 100hz high pass LR filter 24 db cutoff, the 19,000hz low pass BW filter with a 6 or 12 db cutoff. The amps get connected with the loop thru outputs connected to the next amps inputs, order of amps does not matter.

Do don't use the 20 amp power conditioner to power both of the amps use it for your mixer, EQ and other input source equipment. The BBE unit I would not use at all. If you do use the DRPA+ I would recommend not using the auto EQ function.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2012, 09:25 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Good job, Mike. I would add:

If you have old xti's you will need to download new firmware, and use Band Manager v1.0, not the new Band Manager v2.0

Hi djarista:

JBL's horn works from 2000Hz up, and the 15in drivers lobe above 1000Hz, so expect the midrange to be a problem. The bottom
15in driver won't be doing anything except breaking your back loading & unloading.
__________________
Don

Last edited by Don Snyder; 22nd June 2012 at 09:29 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th July 2012, 12:19 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
well, what are you hearing is the shortcomings of the speaker. this is a budget design of the classic 4722 with a passive crossover. the light bulbs in the horns cause distortion that is not suitable for FOH applications. these speakers were designed mainly as side fill monitors.

If I was stuck with these speakers, I would remove the crossover out of them entirely. mount a NL-4 (4 pole speak-on) run 1+/- to the woofers in parallel, and 2+/- goes to the horn.

purchase an XTI1000 and another xti 4000 so that the high packs are powered with one channel of the xtI1000 goe to the tweeter and a xti4000 (bridged) to the midbass drivers.

and one more xti6000 (just to make things run cooler on the sub side)

bridge the 4000's for each side

xti1000 to the tweeter internal dsp: highpass 24db @ 2.5k
xti 4000 to the woofers internal dsp lowpass 24db @2.5k wth high shelf at 85 hz

this will bring the speakers into the 4722 spec

Last edited by DavesNotHere; 9th July 2012 at 12:23 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th July 2012, 12:22 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
and the drive rack is not needed here unless the dsp fall short in configuring the speaker. to specifications above
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th July 2012, 09:03 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
You bridge amps when you can't get enough voltage swing out of the amp to get maximum displacement out of your speakers.

You have enough amplifier to blow both your subs and tops to kingdom come. So don't bother with more amps and don't bother bridging.

My recommendation is to replace your tops with something more appropriate. JBL PRX412M or something like that. Not terribly expensive and IMO pretty decent sounding.

Learn how to use Band Manager to configure the DSP built into your amps, they have build in EQ, crossovers, delays and limiters, as good as anything you can buy. And ditch the DRPA.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th July 2012, 09:12 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Also, ditch the power conditioner. It's heavy and can't do anything a good quality surge protector (Tripplite ISOBAR12ULTRA) can't do.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sub Amps: XTI4000 and Peavey CS4080HZ SpinMonster Solid State 1 3rd November 2011 11:31 AM
Las Vegas Neebie bassnutt Introductions 1 28th April 2011 06:18 AM
Cerwin Vegas INT 252 berylsizzler Multi-Way 1 6th April 2010 11:12 PM
Hi from Vegas thechevyrevrend Introductions 2 17th June 2006 07:56 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:28 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2