As I moved to China I plan to get myself some good setup for a large space, lets say if I have a home party maybe up to 200 people.
I like to play loud, but I love good sound (as I am also a HiFi lover).
Buying me a setup would at first cost me not as much as expected, but this is China and most of it are copies, pretty okay copies but not as good as I want them to be.
To get a "real deal" setup would cost me big.
I have experience building HiFi before and now plan to build my own PA speakers.
What I am looking for is a fullrange speaker, having 2 x 15" and a horndriver.
I'm starting to build two, and later upgrade would be a subwoofer or two.
Amp power is not an issue.
I have been doing some research in Eminence drivers, and that is what I want to know more about. I have hear smaller systems with Eminence (as home speakers) with great joy.
Good drivers for good money as well!
Build material will be marine plywood, and they need to be transported from time to time.
Throw me some bones so I can design my boxes and get myself some drivers to put in them.
Thank You.
I like to play loud, but I love good sound (as I am also a HiFi lover).
Buying me a setup would at first cost me not as much as expected, but this is China and most of it are copies, pretty okay copies but not as good as I want them to be.
To get a "real deal" setup would cost me big.
I have experience building HiFi before and now plan to build my own PA speakers.
What I am looking for is a fullrange speaker, having 2 x 15" and a horndriver.
I'm starting to build two, and later upgrade would be a subwoofer or two.
Amp power is not an issue.
I have been doing some research in Eminence drivers, and that is what I want to know more about. I have hear smaller systems with Eminence (as home speakers) with great joy.
Good drivers for good money as well!
Build material will be marine plywood, and they need to be transported from time to time.
Throw me some bones so I can design my boxes and get myself some drivers to put in them.
Thank You.
1. Consider making it a 3 way. It may actually be cheaper that way. Consider also making it as modules. Bass in one and mid/high in another. Easier to transport.
2. Use an active XO - so much easier and you have told us you have amps. If you don't, remember that a tweeter gets mighty loud at 50 watts so it's not that expensive if you need more.
3. Estimate how loud at what distance you need and in what environment they will be played.
4. I have a number of 15" woofers and have yet to think I needed a subwoofer to augment it. 50 Hz is just fine for parties.
5. Don't worry about a supertweeter. You won't need it for parties.
2. Use an active XO - so much easier and you have told us you have amps. If you don't, remember that a tweeter gets mighty loud at 50 watts so it's not that expensive if you need more.
3. Estimate how loud at what distance you need and in what environment they will be played.
4. I have a number of 15" woofers and have yet to think I needed a subwoofer to augment it. 50 Hz is just fine for parties.
5. Don't worry about a supertweeter. You won't need it for parties.
hi,
Pig ugly but that can be sorted with a little re-arrangement :
Parts Express DIY Project
and i guess this is still valid :Parts Express DIY Project
rgds, sreten.
Pig ugly but that can be sorted with a little re-arrangement :
Parts Express DIY Project
and i guess this is still valid :Parts Express DIY Project
rgds, sreten.
Those Cum Laudes have always looked really sharp except of course for those funny looking holes at the bottom but I think that Blue Wonder should stay under the blanket till it's dark out. Pig Ugly is being kind. Them's real frugly. Scares the kiddies.
Maybe Mr Magnus should start small (price wise) and upgrade as necessary. Perhaps some cheap PA woofs, maybe a 6.5" or the Beta 8 as you mentioned and some small horns and be done with it, something like this: Probably do it for around 500 smackeroos. These are perfectly fine casual outdoor use or as you see here Earthday 2007.
Maybe Mr Magnus should start small (price wise) and upgrade as necessary. Perhaps some cheap PA woofs, maybe a 6.5" or the Beta 8 as you mentioned and some small horns and be done with it, something like this: Probably do it for around 500 smackeroos. These are perfectly fine casual outdoor use or as you see here Earthday 2007.
Attachments
Hi,
But both can be aesthetically re-arranged to suit requirements as needed.
the Blue's as they are, are pig* ugly, so not very difficult to improve.
The point is to have sensible working crossovers rather than textbook guff.
rgds, /sreten.
*this TBH is being unfair to pigs in this case
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checkout this thread... Flex Your PCD Mettle: - Techtalk at Parts-Express.com
multiple versions/price ranges for a two way pro speaker.
david
multiple versions/price ranges for a two way pro speaker.
david
If it's of any interest, here are the plans for the speakers that I built for my PA system. It's a system designed for live sound, and has given me a couple of years good service so far.
Personally I'm a little wary about the double-15 plus horn format, as often it seems that a 15" driver can't accurately cover the midrange up to the point that the horns take over.
I'd also like to second a couple of recommendations made earlier in this thread:
1) Split the system into bass and mid-hi - not only does this allow you to array the bass and elevate the highs, but if you need to transport the system you will find that a double-15 quickly becomes bulky and heavy, and those big blue jobs (which personally I think are rather hansome) must be virtually unliftable.
2) Use a Bi- (or even Tri-) amp system. This avoids a lot of hassle with bulky crossovers, undesirable phase shifts and reduced LF damping factor. Visit Rod Elliot's site (sound.westhost.com) for all the info you need about active crossover design. If anyone's is interested, I also have schematics for the crossover/2-band compressor that I use as a system controller which I can post.
My system consists of 4 12" plus horn mid-hi cabinets, plus two 15" bass bins, all reflex loaded. It is bi-amped, with one feed for the bass and another for the mid-hi, crossing at 165Hz. The mid-hi boxes include a -12/+18dB/8ve passive crossover at 3.5k. The bass bins are loaded with an Eminence Delta 15LF, while the tops have a Celestion TF1225 and an Eminence APT80 - all pretty cheap drivers. Resonance for the bass is 35Hz, and for the tops 65Hz, meaning that they can be run full-range if suitably derated. All the boxes are constructed from 12mm ply, which means that the bass need to be very well braced, and they are specifically designed to cut easily from 8x4 foot sheets.
I've attached all the information I have to hand about their construction. I'm afraid I don't have time to sort out these documents into a nicer format, but I hope they will be pretty self-explainatory as they stand.
Caveats:
Although I'm very pleased with the tops, the bass bins (built first) aren't great. They're overly big and have a needlessly low resonance - thay might sound subjectively louder tuned to 60Hz.
Since the rig is for live sound, it was designed to punch vocals through a Marshal 2x12 running at 110dB in a small room - that is, deliver plenty in the midrange. It's not that the mids are over-emphasized, but the bass isn't as chest thumping as some genres may require.
Finally, all that said, if I where building a new system, I'd look at horns all round. Worth a try?
Personally I'm a little wary about the double-15 plus horn format, as often it seems that a 15" driver can't accurately cover the midrange up to the point that the horns take over.
I'd also like to second a couple of recommendations made earlier in this thread:
1) Split the system into bass and mid-hi - not only does this allow you to array the bass and elevate the highs, but if you need to transport the system you will find that a double-15 quickly becomes bulky and heavy, and those big blue jobs (which personally I think are rather hansome) must be virtually unliftable.
2) Use a Bi- (or even Tri-) amp system. This avoids a lot of hassle with bulky crossovers, undesirable phase shifts and reduced LF damping factor. Visit Rod Elliot's site (sound.westhost.com) for all the info you need about active crossover design. If anyone's is interested, I also have schematics for the crossover/2-band compressor that I use as a system controller which I can post.
My system consists of 4 12" plus horn mid-hi cabinets, plus two 15" bass bins, all reflex loaded. It is bi-amped, with one feed for the bass and another for the mid-hi, crossing at 165Hz. The mid-hi boxes include a -12/+18dB/8ve passive crossover at 3.5k. The bass bins are loaded with an Eminence Delta 15LF, while the tops have a Celestion TF1225 and an Eminence APT80 - all pretty cheap drivers. Resonance for the bass is 35Hz, and for the tops 65Hz, meaning that they can be run full-range if suitably derated. All the boxes are constructed from 12mm ply, which means that the bass need to be very well braced, and they are specifically designed to cut easily from 8x4 foot sheets.
I've attached all the information I have to hand about their construction. I'm afraid I don't have time to sort out these documents into a nicer format, but I hope they will be pretty self-explainatory as they stand.
Caveats:
Although I'm very pleased with the tops, the bass bins (built first) aren't great. They're overly big and have a needlessly low resonance - thay might sound subjectively louder tuned to 60Hz.
Since the rig is for live sound, it was designed to punch vocals through a Marshal 2x12 running at 110dB in a small room - that is, deliver plenty in the midrange. It's not that the mids are over-emphasized, but the bass isn't as chest thumping as some genres may require.
Finally, all that said, if I where building a new system, I'd look at horns all round. Worth a try?
Thank you all for the input!
I have been looking at speakerplans before and had in mind building two tops and one or two subs from this sites plans.
Question is whether I should go with Mid Top Plans - MT 122 (with 2 x 12") or MT 102 (with 2x10").
As for sub I have my plans going for the G Sub on the same site.
I have been looking at speakerplans before and had in mind building two tops and one or two subs from this sites plans.
Question is whether I should go with Mid Top Plans - MT 122 (with 2 x 12") or MT 102 (with 2x10").
As for sub I have my plans going for the G Sub on the same site.
I'm afraid G-sub would have hard times to meet MT-122, let alone MT-102. Ideally the crossover between a double-18" and mid-tops should be around 100 Hz or lower because they don't handle upper bass (kick) that good. And you would need two MT-122 per side due to their very narrow 40 degrees dispersion (plus they need VERY beefy 2" compression driver to cross around 800...1000 Hz). MT-102 are a bit better dispersion wise (60 degrees) but won't go below 200 Hz or so and still need to be crossed around 1,5 kHz to 2" driver. I'd go for X12 (or even X10 - better midrange) plus G-sub. For 200 people horn loaded tops are overkill anyways, IMO; and you want wider dispersion, 70...90 degrees preferably. Even good single-12" tops with 18" subs would do for that. Lots of plans here, though it's in German.
Naturally. Constant directivity horns are a standard in PA application for the very same reason. Also, almost no existing midrange horn design can control directivity lower than approx. 500...1000 Hz (depending on horn size). Those that can, are impractically big.
I'd say that whenever you need more than one mid-top per side you have to compromise on sound quality. You can minimize combing, but not get totally rid of it however hard you try.
Most important in my case is the sound quality.
AND also building for the future, if I want to expand the setup I don't need to scrap something that doesn't "fit"
And a couple of month ago I stumbled upon http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/ .
What I have in mind right now is to go with following setup:
2 x DR300 tops
1 x Titan 39 sub
How do You guys think of the DR300 when it comes to rooms less than 100 sqm?
AND also building for the future, if I want to expand the setup I don't need to scrap something that doesn't "fit"
And a couple of month ago I stumbled upon http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/ .
What I have in mind right now is to go with following setup:
2 x DR300 tops
1 x Titan 39 sub
How do You guys think of the DR300 when it comes to rooms less than 100 sqm?
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