In all honesty, the EV's at 1500 watts each sound way better than hs12s, but then again these are ev's and are getting 1500 watts and sound clean loud and clear. I see now what people mean by beaming... at places it sounds like the bass disappears with the hs12s in the configuration above (2 per side) as where it is less noticeable with them stacked up up and down... something else to note is that they have two different waveguides... The B52s out power my 4 ss15's... I like the b52's over the ss15's... If anyone has experience with the b52's versus the TH18 or the Keyston Sub I would like to know if it's worth ordering such an expensive speaker and building two to test...
Sorry to note that you must close overture between outpeaker bord and 4" cutout, otherwise is an acustical short circuit. You have no front compression because wave goes short by direct connection between front and rear waves
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Looking at the original plans on page 1 of this thread, you can see that Jbell does close off the outer edges of the speaker in the plans with scrap pieces of wood.
I am thinking of building these speakers for PA use for shows I do at local american legion halls for local bands. Probably 2 per side in about a 1000 sq ft room. This will be my first foray into speaker building. Has anyone built an HS12 with the piezo array like the 2x10 cabs Jbell built earlier? I really like the look and price point of the piezos vs a higher quality compression driver. I suppose they're cheap enough that I can try it out and change later, but I'd love to see if anyone else has done it first. Hoping to built these sometime in the next two weeks!
I am thinking of building these speakers for PA use for shows I do at local american legion halls for local bands. Probably 2 per side in about a 1000 sq ft room. This will be my first foray into speaker building. Has anyone built an HS12 with the piezo array like the 2x10 cabs Jbell built earlier? I really like the look and price point of the piezos vs a higher quality compression driver. I suppose they're cheap enough that I can try it out and change later, but I'd love to see if anyone else has done it first. Hoping to built these sometime in the next two weeks!
I hope this isn't a stupid question, but here goes. I'm planning out my build of 4 HS12s, and I'm wondering how it might work out to not put horns/waveguides on each of the cabinets, but to build two more small boxes with only the dayton waveguides in them to stack one on top of the two HS12s on each side. I figure I'll use the Dayton 12s in the HS12s, and the dayton waveguide and an 8 ohm D220Ti on each side. Then I'll be getting 109dB out of the horn, but will that overpower two HS12s stacked up?
I will be running an active crossover instead of a passive crossover, and I'll be using one Crest VS900 per side for the speakers. That will give me 450 watts at 4 ohms into the HS12s and 300 watts at 8 ohms into the Dayton. My main concern is getting the vocals to cut over the loud bands in a packed room.
My plans are to eventually build 4 SS15s to sit under these speakers, and run a whole JBell set up.
Thanks for any input you can offer. I'm very glad I found this forum. You're all very informative.
I will be running an active crossover instead of a passive crossover, and I'll be using one Crest VS900 per side for the speakers. That will give me 450 watts at 4 ohms into the HS12s and 300 watts at 8 ohms into the Dayton. My main concern is getting the vocals to cut over the loud bands in a packed room.
My plans are to eventually build 4 SS15s to sit under these speakers, and run a whole JBell set up.
Thanks for any input you can offer. I'm very glad I found this forum. You're all very informative.
So is there anyone that can answer my question? Would I be better off building a reflex box over these for my application? Say smaller rooms, 1000-1500 sq ft, with maybe 100-200 people? This is my first build, and I don't want to waste my time and have to build over. I'm reading that horn loaded mids don't sound good until you're a little further away, and people will be right up front near the speakers.
Good day to all. I just built two of these and need a few questions answered please.
After taking measurements I notice there will be a one inch space behind the driver. Will this be ok or will the woofer over heat?
Secondly I will be using an active cross over that's in my amp rack. Wil Thisbe ok or will I have to use a passive crossover inside the boxes? If so what exactly should I purchase as crossover and where can I purchase from
Thanks and have a great evening.
After taking measurements I notice there will be a one inch space behind the driver. Will this be ok or will the woofer over heat?
Secondly I will be using an active cross over that's in my amp rack. Wil Thisbe ok or will I have to use a passive crossover inside the boxes? If so what exactly should I purchase as crossover and where can I purchase from
Thanks and have a great evening.
Pabesco,
I will be building four of these as well. I read in some threads that people made them deeper to accomodate a different driver. I realy dont think heat will be an issue. If it was me I would always add an internal passive crossover. I bought 4 of these off ebay and think they will work quite well but I haven't started my build yet (330905586644 ebay item no.). Please post pics of build.
Thanks, John
I will be building four of these as well. I read in some threads that people made them deeper to accomodate a different driver. I realy dont think heat will be an issue. If it was me I would always add an internal passive crossover. I bought 4 of these off ebay and think they will work quite well but I haven't started my build yet (330905586644 ebay item no.). Please post pics of build.
Thanks, John
Pabesco
You already own an active crossover. If you have a suitable amplifier for the HF drivers then you should use that in preference of a passive crossover.
The passive crossover suggested will not work properly with the 16 ohm tweeters.
Going active allows you far more accurate control of the crossover frequency and will give you better audio quality. Looking back over this thread the crossover frequency suggested is 1.9Khz. Even this is quite high for a horn loaded mid.
(Grecon used a passive 1.9kHz passive crossover in his cabs, but he made his own crossovers to suit the differing driver impedances.)
Regards Xoc1
PS Are your TH18 cabs working OK?
You already own an active crossover. If you have a suitable amplifier for the HF drivers then you should use that in preference of a passive crossover.
The passive crossover suggested will not work properly with the 16 ohm tweeters.
Going active allows you far more accurate control of the crossover frequency and will give you better audio quality. Looking back over this thread the crossover frequency suggested is 1.9Khz. Even this is quite high for a horn loaded mid.
(Grecon used a passive 1.9kHz passive crossover in his cabs, but he made his own crossovers to suit the differing driver impedances.)
Regards Xoc1
PS Are your TH18 cabs working OK?
Xoc1,
My suggestion was to always add an internal xover. I wasn't suggestion only use the internal one. I have used the mentioned crossover as a replacement for other speakers and it works quite well. If you read the designers statement (jbell) he considers the cabinet to be 8 ohms even with the 16ohm tweeter.
As to the th18, it is an awesome subwoofer design as it should be because it's so similar to the ss15 folding.
My suggestion was to always add an internal xover. I wasn't suggestion only use the internal one. I have used the mentioned crossover as a replacement for other speakers and it works quite well. If you read the designers statement (jbell) he considers the cabinet to be 8 ohms even with the 16ohm tweeter.
As to the th18, it is an awesome subwoofer design as it should be because it's so similar to the ss15 folding.
Thank you xoc1. I will use the active crossover and see how that works. I'm using one half of a qsc 2450 to run the two mids I just built. The other half of the qsc is just running some highs (two small boxes filled with six tweeters each)
Thanks for the info guys. The speakers should be here by next week and I wil post the results ASAP.
Thanks for the info guys. The speakers should be here by next week and I wil post the results ASAP.
Hi guys just a quick question for these tops, some of the suggested items are not available at this time and I would like to know which would be the best combination for the best sound from thers tops.
I am planning to use the following
DAYTON AUDIO PA310-8 12
SELENIUM D220ti-16
GOLD WOOD GM500PB
I will not be stacking and does anyone think I should use the Dayton audio h10rw Round waveguide seeing the 12 inch is not available. Or should I use the Dayton audio H6512 waveguide
I just want to get the best possible sound from these tops.
Thanks guys.
I am planning to use the following
DAYTON AUDIO PA310-8 12
SELENIUM D220ti-16
GOLD WOOD GM500PB
I will not be stacking and does anyone think I should use the Dayton audio h10rw Round waveguide seeing the 12 inch is not available. Or should I use the Dayton audio H6512 waveguide
I just want to get the best possible sound from these tops.
Thanks guys.
I'm also interested in the answer to these questions.
Did you get a response? Have you started the build?
Hello, if I may butt in with some general suggestions....
If your intended use is for pro audio, the Dayton round waveguide is going to send a lot of energy where you don't need it, like to the ceiling & floor. Plus, you won't get a lot of distance from it, because it's both shallow & wide in all directions. Something deeper & closer to 40 degrees vertical would work better.
Placing your horn/driver on top of the box doesn't matter much if you're not creating a line array.
Using an 8 Ohm passive crossover with a 16 Ohm compression driver will shift your crossover point by an entire octave. The amplifier sees the impedance of the 8 Ohm woofer as nominal, not the highs.
1600Hz is closer to a realistic crossover point for a 12" cone, although it may not even play that high horn-loaded because the front chamber tends to act as a lowpass filter. Build, listen & measure for yourself.
Unless I misinterpreted, you don't want to use both a passive crossover & an active crossover at the same time. It can only sound bad. An internal switch or patch would be necessary to bypass the passive network.
Pabesco, your component choices look good, but make sure the horn doesn't have a squared-off throat after the mounting threads, as many budget horns have. They tend to sound a bit harsh. You might consider spending a little more on a better horn.
I'd like to see some build pics, too!
If your intended use is for pro audio, the Dayton round waveguide is going to send a lot of energy where you don't need it, like to the ceiling & floor. Plus, you won't get a lot of distance from it, because it's both shallow & wide in all directions. Something deeper & closer to 40 degrees vertical would work better.
Placing your horn/driver on top of the box doesn't matter much if you're not creating a line array.
Using an 8 Ohm passive crossover with a 16 Ohm compression driver will shift your crossover point by an entire octave. The amplifier sees the impedance of the 8 Ohm woofer as nominal, not the highs.
1600Hz is closer to a realistic crossover point for a 12" cone, although it may not even play that high horn-loaded because the front chamber tends to act as a lowpass filter. Build, listen & measure for yourself.
Unless I misinterpreted, you don't want to use both a passive crossover & an active crossover at the same time. It can only sound bad. An internal switch or patch would be necessary to bypass the passive network.
Pabesco, your component choices look good, but make sure the horn doesn't have a squared-off throat after the mounting threads, as many budget horns have. They tend to sound a bit harsh. You might consider spending a little more on a better horn.
I'd like to see some build pics, too!
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